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  #421  
Old 10-09-2018, 01:23 AM
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SuperBuickGuy SuperBuickGuy is offline
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time to clear the space


I'll need to build new structure to support the fiberglass... but there is space


roughly in place.... it needs to move up 2 1/2"



of course, that means removing the cross member


tomorrow I'll build support structure for the frame - most likely that means building some kind of front roll cage then attaching the body to it...edited
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  #422  
Old 10-10-2018, 03:35 AM
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So more workedited
notice how the pivot and the ball joint are on different planes?edited


though the Russian judge will never give more score for it, the C5 has a different spindle height and different pivot plane


so let's eyeball the problem.edited the ball joint is about in the same place as the C3 pivot would be..... only difference is the center of the hub is 20" away from the fender vs. the 16 or so that's stockedited


so time to move the frame into the frame


first cuts


chopped


time to weld a brace in place


chopped again

​​​​​​​
now things can move up


and it needs to move back a bit
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  #423  
Old 10-10-2018, 05:00 PM
Red77 Red77 is offline
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I'm really enjoying living vicariously through your experience here. Keep the updates coming! :-)
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  #424  
Old 10-12-2018, 02:04 PM
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SuperBuickGuy SuperBuickGuy is offline
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so to more detail.
last night I got it more centered - look at the front, bumper bolt hole



warning if anyone is copying this - those holes are not, exactly in the same spot on either side


another tip - the front control arm hole is 3/4" lower then the rear hole.... this picture is close to where it needs to live
Use the hole where the lines are drawn (rear) - those holes are supposed to be in the same spot on either side.edited That said, trust but verify.
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  #425  
Old 10-15-2018, 04:40 AM
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so more fitting.... I think (hope) it'll be okay to move it up 1 1/2"edited .... I still need to get a legible copy of the suspension points on a C5;


originally, my calculations showed it here


but I talked myself out of it.... we will see, I'll mock it together before I do any more cutting to doubly verify where the wheel will end (vertically) in the wheel well.edited Even if this is a bit further from the ground the 1/2" at the ball joint won't make much, if any, handling difference.
The other thing... I'm going to eventually cut the stubs off in front of the motor mount and use new metal...edited
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  #426  
Old 10-15-2018, 12:18 PM
Red77 Red77 is offline
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I guess you could completely clean up that area, you won't be needing the spring pockets anymore. Good to have for now as you are still trying to verify the right position in relation to what was there before, but is is an unnecessary chunk of weight and complexity once you have it figured out. Are you planning on fishplating in some rectangular tube stubs for the subframe pickup points?
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  #427  
Old 10-16-2018, 04:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red77 View Post
I guess you could completely clean up that area, you won't be needing the spring pockets anymore. Good to have for now as you are still trying to verify the right position in relation to what was there before, but is is an unnecessary chunk of weight and complexity once you have it figured out. Are you planning on fishplating in some rectangular tube stubs for the subframe pickup points?
motor mounts are behind the pockets. I have 4x4 3/16 wall tube, but also I'm close to ready to use my plasma table so if those stars align, we will see.

my current spring plan is use a coil-over-conversion for a C5 so the pockets are not only unnecessary but in the way.... that said, it's a whole lot easier to line things up with the frame in there.

I also plan on removing the frame above the Camaro rear assembly - it's unnecessary too. The body is going to come off enough to clean all of that up, then back together for shakedown, then apart for beautification.... likely this next summer will be the shakedown and the body in black primer.... or red, or grey or whatever is on the shelf...
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  #428  
Old 10-16-2018, 12:46 PM
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Sounds like a good plan. Without a frame table to work with, I think you probably have gone about this in the best way possible to maintain good dimensional references. It might be more work, but it will be right when it is all said and done. My cousin bought a huge table years ago for frame building. I think it was probably a bed for a large traveling column or gantry style mill. It was roughly 10'X20' and a super heavy casting. It had T-slots in it for work holding, several drilled and tapped holes, etc. He got it for pennies on the dollar as a shop was closing down in Houston and basically paid for the rigging to get it out of the shop it was in. It made full chassis builds much easier, but very few of us have that luxury. He was in the right place at the right time.
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  #429  
Old 10-16-2018, 05:46 PM
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I have the bits to make a frame table, but after doing one for the Fiat Spider, I just didn't find it was worth the hassle. Granted, if I was doing this for a business, a table would make this happen a lot faster - but my space is limited so it'd probably cost me more time because it's in the way then it would save.

that said, I love those 'must get them out now' deals - it's how I got my lathe.

so a brief note on course a course change

Originally, it was flares and 427. That remains the same, as most who follow know, I love my manual-everything C3s. However, with wide tires, 14" brakes along with a power rack (which I could simply short-circuit), I'm going to add hydraboost to the brakes and plumb the rack and then EFI on the 427. Likely I'll use a throttle-body based system (like FI tech). The reason for EFI is there is a possibility this car is going to get pitted against a C3 with a SBC 427 Corvette and a C3 with a LS 427 - both of which are going to be EFI cars, both of which have updated suspensions.... don't hold your breath for this, though, all of the cars have 2 year min. completion dates....
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  #430  
Old 10-17-2018, 04:40 AM
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Today, I got a chance to get some good measurements off a C5 Corvette
what surprised me was that the cradle is 5 3/4 inches off the ground.... as of yesterday, it was 8


255 tire, now 7 1/4 off the ground


that is about right sitting in the car, yes, it looks low but I could put a 275/20 tire under it ...


time to make it permanent




the oil pan is actually above the cradle and the cradle is basically flat to the center cross member (meaning I can do a belly pan pretty easiliy


looking from the back


and again the front


next up is the front mount which will include the upper control arm mount.they are 13 inches above the lower control arm in the back 9 1/2 in the front..... basically as the tire goes up the upper arm is moving backward while the lower is going forward- but at different rates.... how the GM engineers figured all this out is pretty fascinating to me, hope it works with the Camaro rear

Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; 10-17-2018 at 04:42 AM..
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