How to Fabricate Engine Brackets - Page 2

68/70Vette · #11 09-09-2012, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BBShark

Thhose adapter plates (from the Ebay guy) don't mount low enough on the engine to clear a BB hood. I have drawings for the plates you need. Also there is a 12% underdrive pulley that you can buy so you don't have to notch the crossmember.

I'll see if I can come up with some info on this.

Thanks. I have an underdrive crank pulley that clears the crossmember. It's a March aluminum pulley sold on one of their other applications. Certainly hope you can find the drawing.

I have a March under drive pulley on the SB Serpentine kit on my 68 ZZ4. When the electric fan comes on, I need about 1500 rpm on the engine to make enough electrical power for the fan and fuel pump.

TimAT · #12 09-09-2012, 06:00 PM

In the aviation world there is a little thing called "strap duplicators" Various sizes and lengths. One side has a pin that centers in the hole you want to drill, the other side is a sharp pin punch. Slip it over the bracket, tap with a hammer and a perfect center point. Used more for sheet metal applications, but with a little mod they work just fine on thicker materials. Thinking about it, since NONE of us EVER modify anything maybe not..

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68/70Vette · #13 09-09-2012, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeffP1167

have you looked at a chevy 454ss trucks setup?

Yes, this is the BB Serpentine kit with the cast iron brackets. Bought one and returned it. Didn't want cast iron on the engine. Not a really 100% rational view. The extra weight wouldn't have been that much. But then again, my entire project of rebuilding a technology upgrade for a 70 Corvette is not, by itself, very rational in some people's opinion! Thanks for replying with a suggestion however.

JeffP1167 · #14 09-09-2012, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68/70Vette

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeffP1167

have you looked at a chevy 454ss trucks setup?

Yes, this is the BB Serpentine kit with the cast iron brackets. Bought one and returned it. Didn't want cast iron on the engine. Not a really 100% rational view. The extra weight wouldn't have been that much. But then again, my entire project of rebuilding a technology upgrade for a 70 Corvette is not, by itself, very rational in some people's opinion! Thanks for replying with a suggestion however.

what about mercury BB serpentine brackets and stuff.

BBShark · #15 09-13-2012, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68/70Vette

Quote:

Originally Posted by BBShark

Thhose adapter plates (from the Ebay guy) don't mount low enough on the engine to clear a BB hood. I have drawings for the plates you need. Also there is a 12% underdrive pulley that you can buy so you don't have to notch the crossmember.

I'll see if I can come up with some info on this.

Thanks. I have an underdrive crank pulley that clears the crossmember. It's a March aluminum pulley sold on one of their other applications. Certainly hope you can find the drawing.

I have a March under drive pulley on the SB Serpentine kit on my 68 ZZ4. When the electric fan comes on, I need about 1500 rpm on the engine to make enough electrical power for the fan and fuel pump.

It's been a while since I did this so I'm a little fuzzy on the details. I have asked another member who did this more recently to comment.

The difficulty is the alternator bracket. You have to get the top of the alternator low enough to clear the BB hood but high enough for the PS pulley to clear the crossmember. The challenge with the AC bracket is hood clearance and clearance with the inside of the upper A-arm pivot.

Here are a couple of pdf's that have the head adapter plates. the pdf without dimensions should print 1:1 and the one with dimensions will allow you to check the scale.

The pictures show the AC side plates (upper and lower). Unfortunately I don'y have any good pix of the alternator side.

BBShark · #16 09-13-2012, 01:20 PM

Forgot Pix:

damoroso · #17 09-14-2012, 12:34 PM

Shark's way is the way to go. I used a 91 S-10 V6 pick up set of brackets and accessories, because the brackets from a pickup don't have the air pump mount. I used 3/4" aluminum plate for the brackets from Sharks drawings. To get everything to line up, I milled 3/8" off the back of the A/C bracket and added 1/2" of shims to the crank and water pump pulleys. The water pump has to be a reverse flow BTW, I used a Flow Kooler pump with 30% more flos than stock. I couldn't find an aluminum pump, so this one's a really heavy piece of iron! I don't have good pics of the lower brackets, but they're also from 3/4" plate and locate on the two threaded holes in the block on either side of the timing cover. If you make the head brackets first, the lowers will be obvious. I used the crank pulley that was with the brackets and it ends up really close to the cross memeber (there's just enough room to change the belt), but I have a 2004r trans and modified the stock the crossmemeber, so that may have something to do with it.

Here's how it looks:

68/70Vette · #18 09-16-2012, 03:24 AM

Just a quick reply for now. Thanks for all the really great info. I think I have a local machine shop that I can use for custom parts. ($$$???)

BBShark · #19 09-16-2012, 12:21 PM

If you want to do this, the brackets you need are:

AC 10118751
Alt 10233233

68/70Vette · #20 09-18-2012, 03:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BBShark

If you want to do this, the brackets you need are:

AC 10118751
Alt 10233233

Thanks!

Do you know what model of car/truck they were originally made for? The first thing Ill try to do is dig up a parts list for the GM SB Serpentine Kit system to see if perhaps they are similar. I'll have to seek out a local machine shop to make the adapter plates.
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