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#11
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I have a March under drive pulley on the SB Serpentine kit on my 68 ZZ4. When the electric fan comes on, I need about 1500 rpm on the engine to make enough electrical power for the fan and fuel pump. Last edited by BBShark; 09-13-2012 at 12:23 PM.. Reason: fixed quotes |
#12
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![]() In the aviation world there is a little thing called "strap duplicators" Various sizes and lengths. One side has a pin that centers in the hole you want to drill, the other side is a sharp pin punch. Slip it over the bracket, tap with a hammer and a perfect center point. Used more for sheet metal applications, but with a little mod they work just fine on thicker materials. Thinking about it, since NONE of us EVER modify anything maybe not..
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Why is it that all instruments searching for intelligent life are pointed away from the Earth? |
#13
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![]() Yes, this is the BB Serpentine kit with the cast iron brackets. Bought one and returned it. Didn't want cast iron on the engine. Not a really 100% rational view. The extra weight wouldn't have been that much. But then again, my entire project of rebuilding a technology upgrade for a 70 Corvette is not, by itself, very rational in some people's opinion! Thanks for replying with a suggestion however.
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#14
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#15
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It's been a while since I did this so I'm a little fuzzy on the details. I have asked another member who did this more recently to comment. The difficulty is the alternator bracket. You have to get the top of the alternator low enough to clear the BB hood but high enough for the PS pulley to clear the crossmember. The challenge with the AC bracket is hood clearance and clearance with the inside of the upper A-arm pivot. Here are a couple of pdf's that have the head adapter plates. the pdf without dimensions should print 1:1 and the one with dimensions will allow you to check the scale. The pictures show the AC side plates (upper and lower). Unfortunately I don'y have any good pix of the alternator side.
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#17
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![]() Shark's way is the way to go. I used a 91 S-10 V6 pick up set of brackets and accessories, because the brackets from a pickup don't have the air pump mount. I used 3/4" aluminum plate for the brackets from Sharks drawings. To get everything to line up, I milled 3/8" off the back of the A/C bracket and added 1/2" of shims to the crank and water pump pulleys. The water pump has to be a reverse flow BTW, I used a Flow Kooler pump with 30% more flos than stock. I couldn't find an aluminum pump, so this one's a really heavy piece of iron! I don't have good pics of the lower brackets, but they're also from 3/4" plate and locate on the two threaded holes in the block on either side of the timing cover. If you make the head brackets first, the lowers will be obvious. I used the crank pulley that was with the brackets and it ends up really close to the cross memeber (there's just enough room to change the belt), but I have a 2004r trans and modified the stock the crossmemeber, so that may have something to do with it.
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#20
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Do you know what model of car/truck they were originally made for? The first thing Ill try to do is dig up a parts list for the GM SB Serpentine Kit system to see if perhaps they are similar. I'll have to seek out a local machine shop to make the adapter plates. ............... About making Last edited by 68/70Vette; 09-18-2012 at 04:45 AM.. |
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