Plastic Fantastic 2

so after a bunch of phone time, research, this is what I'm using to adhere the flares... I should say, this is the first step of adhering. The next step will then fiberglass behind the seams and fiberglass in the places where I got it a bit wide....

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so after a bunch of phone time, research, this is what I'm using to adhere the flares... I should say, this is the first step of adhering. The next step will then fiberglass behind the seams and fiberglass in the places where I got it a bit wide....

s-l300.jpg
Great stuff, used it to glue my front clip. Just make sure you do it right, in case of mistake it won't come easily like the pink stock adhesive, heat or not.
 
I never make mistakes :confused2::footmouth:

The CIC flares are not perfect, they're actually kind of not really close - keep in mind that my flares were the 2nd set they ever produced and I knew that when I got them so it's not error but it does mean there will be a bit of re-sculpting... the benefit of that is I'd really have to work at it to need to have to re-mount the fenders....

I provide this as rationale.... not discussion, more to help someone see what choices are out there to bond fenders. If someone doesn't like what I'm doing... my advice is don't do it my way.

choices for bonding agent (beside fiberglass) 3m 8279, 3m 8219. I also didn't use 3m 8116 or other (e.g. evercoat) manufacturer's product.

I didn't use 8219 because it cures harder then the fiberglass, 8219 is the fast-cure version (35 minutes). With that said, 8219/8279 are fiberglass/fiberglass bond. 8115 also bonds to metal. 8116 is the fast cure version of 8115. It was designed for production line work for GM. There is a claim that it's not as strong, but, any damage that would make it break would destroy the panel as well so my opinion is it's kind of moot.

Evercoat vette bond is what a friend is using on his car, it's been discontinued - that said, I'm using Evercoat panel adhesive (which is not the same as Evercoat panel bond) as a filler once I get the first layers of fiberglass in place along with creating my own bonding strips for all the points where the panel is butt-jointed.

affixing during the drying process.... I don't know yet - I have the clecos, and if you dip them in wax, they won't stick to the glue... of course, you've now just introduced wax into a bare panel - so that will have to be dealt with... there will be a bunch of hole filling so my current thought is wax clecos, then when it's dry, countersink the hole to clean the wax out and give a good bond when I fiberglass the hole closed.
 
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affixing during the drying process.... I don't know yet - I have the clecos, and if you dip them in wax, they won't stick to the glue... of course, you've now just introduced wax into a bare panel - so that will have to be dealt with... there will be a bunch of hole filling so my current thought is wax clecos, then when it's dry, countersink the hole to clean the wax out and give a good bond when I fiberglass the hole closed.
I used short wood screw, mine were Robertson head but hex head would do. Point is you want a very good grip.
if so it's pretty easy to pop them out afterward.
I still had work to fill up the holes , but at least there was no contamination.
Note: I used epoxy, not sure it's the same with polyester.
 
Thanks, I'm not 100% sure I need to do anything to keep them from adhering.... more likely, though, I'll set the fende with clecos, then screw it on once the glue is in place using the cleco holes

hood work
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it's almost a shame to cut this apart because it's a 74 L82, 454 hood
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nope, doesn't even slow me down
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one thing I didn't know, the motor isn't perfectly centered
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oops?
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if anyone wants to know how much a 3" filter on a dominator intake on a 427 sticks above the hood line... there it is
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hole filled
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yeah, that's not going to be fun
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I like it, though
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paint fell off
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i have so many photos with them i have no real way of getting them back in an easy fashion that i can think of ....i dont mind paying for stuff I just hate getting screwed. i still am using the old subscription that i have.

i will have to see if i can find a way to bulk down load them.
 
looking good did you see photobucket blinked.....and are now offering a $99 un limited 3rd part hosting?
I checked on their website and looks like it's still $400/y for third party hosting.
Paying is one thing, being ripped off is another, IMHO Photobucket can go to hell.
 
looking good did you see photobucket blinked.....and are now offering a $99 un limited 3rd part hosting?
I checked on their website and looks like it's still $400/y for third party hosting.
Paying is one thing, being ripped off is another, IMHO Photobucket can go to hell.

i get a banner that pops up when i am signed on offering the $99 unlimited 3rd party posting
 
back to snorting fiberglass
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first knock the rest of the old glue off
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and the shiney off the back of the flare
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cheat a door alignment.edited I have the pins, but I simply adjusted the door hinge to get a ballpark on alignment
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close, interestingly once I put the new pins and bushings in place it'll be very, very close - meaning this is okay, but it'll be a lot better (it adjusted to this point, before it was 1/4 inch low)
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time for a high-tech reference line to be sure the flares are of similar altitude
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1 'down' 3 to go... one thing I did realize is I'll not be gluing the door post in place... where the skin is level with the flare has quite a gap in the middle of the door/flare.... ah well, fiberglass makes a good gap filler
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onto the next
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now with glue removed
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more snorting glass
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last night I looked at the picture and decided the rear panel was too far forward
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so I moved it... which brings up gaps, looks like I'll be spending some quality time creating reasonable ones... ah well, if it were easy I'd find a way to make it harder... that said, if I do these again, I may do it a different way....
 
last corner then final fitment
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perspective views - mostly for me to use the digital camera to be certain everything is close to proper alignment
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hum, that tail needs more tire
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woo hoo looks like we are back in business....did we lose a months worth of data in the forum crash? any body know what happened?
 
I was having withdrawals waiting for it to come back up. I still look through the other forum as well, but the community here is much more civil without all the anal retentiveness. I'm enjoying watching the fiberglass work. While my car has been sitting all these years awaiting my attention, the front clip separated from the header between the headlights. That gives me a good excuse to properly repair some crash damage from the previous owner. Watching these threads give me come much needed confidence to dive in. :) Not sure I'll tackle flares, but front clip, door gaps, bumpers and hood may be a go.
 
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