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Worship79
07-04-2008, 10:15 AM
Alrighty, currently finetuning my engine after an upgrade (heads, cam, etc.). This will result in somewhere between 200 and 240, maybe 250 rwhp (first dynosession: 205 rwhp). Posted about this before I think, but not really relevant for my actual question (I think).

For my next upgrade I need to address compression. I calculated it by the official manufacturers numbers and that resulted in a puny CR of 8.48:1 (see below).

To really have some fun, but still be able to drive on pump gas (95 RON) I'd like to boost CR to around 9.5:1. For this I think I need to change my lousy dished, 4 valve relief, 13cc pistons to flattops.

Could someone educate me on the usefulness of valve reliefs? How does having 4, 2 or none relate to the CR?

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MYBAD79
07-04-2008, 10:51 AM
Something is wrong, the stock L48 had around 8.5:1 CR and that with stock 76cc chamber heads. You have 64cc heads so your CR should be closer to 9:1 with stock pistons and stock gasket thickness.

This calculator shows 8.9:1 CR for your engine using a .040" thick gasket and having the piston .025" in the hole (stock deck height 9.025")

[Only registered and activated users can see links]

here's a screenshot with your numbers:
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Worship79
07-04-2008, 03:19 PM
Stock L48 yes, new Goodwrench no :rain: ChevyHighPerformance magazine did the 'Goodwrench quest' and they found out compression on the base 220hp (flywheel) engine was a wimpy 7.8:1.

If compression is at 8.9:1 I should get around 250 rwhp on the dyno (after I replaced all my plugwires) or more?

Twin_Turbo
07-04-2008, 08:06 PM
Usually the deck height is 9.025 also on those hecho en mexico LM1s/Target Masters/ Goodwrench blocks. From there the piston usually sits around 8.995 so total down the hole is about .030.

Do you have the correct gasket diameter? To lower CR, use a THIN gasket, as thin as you can get your composite one (stock uses steel but your deck is most likely not properly flat and certainly not rough enough, probably wire bristled or roloc bristled right???)

4 valve reliefs are much cheaper to produce, 1 piston type fits all holes and no install care has to be taken for orientation apart from noting the notch for forward. Same w/ symmetrical 2 relief or 1 big relied (l82 TRW 464664 piston & similar forged 327 model) but relief must be orientated on top of cyl.

4 valve reliefs = install for dummies :)

Actual CR will be even lwoer than calculated, the area above the top rings (side of piston to bore gap) needs to be added too :)

That CR is perfect for a huffer :)

Worship79
07-04-2008, 09:32 PM
Thanks for pithcing in Marck :hi:

We used a corteco engine kit, nr. 32222-1CS. Only info on thickness a could find was that the head gasket uses a .015" shim, whatever that may mean. Gasket diameter might not be correct as I took the most commonly used diameter: also unfindable information! Fit right around the cilinder, though I know thatofcourse is not accurate enough. My engine doesn't leak anymore, so in that respect I'm very happy with these gaskets :)

Indeed we first scraped the old gaskets with a gasket scraper and then wire bristled the deck for further cleaning. For the build see here ([Only registered and activated users can see links]) (Dutch, but pictures speak for themselves). Below I listed my complete current setup, for further information. A huffer is something like a tow-truck, right? :skeptic:

How does a valve relief affect the CR? In which does one choose 2 or 1 or none? :search:

Goodwrench 350 SBC
- 4 bolt
- cast alu dished pistons 4 valve reliefs
EDL-60909 64cc performer heads
EDL-2701 performer EPS manifold
EDL-1411 performer 750cfm carb
CompCam XE268H cam:
- Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224 int./230 exh.
- Advertised Duration: 268 int./280 exh.
- Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.477 int./0.480 exh. lift
- Lobe Separation (degrees): 110
- Grind Number: CS XE268H-10
CompCam Magnum 1.52 roller tip rockers.
CompCam Double roller timing chain and gear
EDL-9629 .100 over pushrods (Edelbrock specs)
Corteco engine gasket (spacer shim 0.015) kit (32222-1CS)
NGK-R BCPR5ES spark plugs, 3/4" reach (Edelbrock specs)
15W40 mineral oil
ACCEL HEI Super coil (plus new rotor and cap)
Hooker side-exhaust headers 1/5 primaries, 4 collector
Reverse flow baffles
TH350
Stock stall-convertor

MYBAD79
07-04-2008, 11:28 PM
As far as I know you can not use a .015" steel shim gasket with aluminum heads. Is that really a .015" thick gasket or what ? I googled the number 32222-1CS and it comes up as a .015" steel shim gasket.....
I use Mr Gasket .028" composite gaskets and I was told that these and the Victor Reintz .026" composites are the thinnest you can use with alu heads.

Twin_Turbo
07-05-2008, 01:22 AM
A valve relief affects the CR because it's a dish and it means you have more cylinder volume because of it.

unless we know what head gasket you have (compressed thickness, bore diameter) it's all a guessing game.

Agree with Karsten, the reinz one is about the thinnest out there.

Running a steel shim on a non trued deck with the incorrect roughness is asking for trouble.

Worship79
07-05-2008, 05:20 PM
Okay, but other than that no advantages to a relief? Quench perhaps?

As for the gasketsl, correct or not: those are the ones on it. I'll e-mail corteco for more exact specs.

What kind of trouble could there be? Blown gasket?

Twin_Turbo
07-05-2008, 06:52 PM
quench is a factor of deck height (or more precisely piston down bore) and compressed gasket thickness.

Worship79
07-05-2008, 10:58 PM
Thanks for clearing that up, so putting in 'flat' flat-tops would be best, unless they would increase compression too much to allow for the use of normal pump gas.

Once I know my compression and I am sure everything is in order, I was thinking of putting in hypereutectics like these: [Only registered and activated users can see links]

What would be good rings to go with this type of piston?

Worship79
07-07-2008, 06:00 PM
No one? I'll pitch speed-pro an e-mail I think.

What about the gasket issue? What signs should I look for? Thanks :drink:

Twin_Turbo
07-07-2008, 06:08 PM
There's no way you can raise the CR too much with flat tops and your combo. Also, CR is just a number, little significance. A rule of thumb more of sorts. DCR will give a better idea of what to expect, at least it's sort of related to (full throttle) cranking pressure and actual operating conditions (cyl pressures). It too is a number and a guide, but more significant than CR

If you opt for hypers, make sure you run a wider top gap as hypers retain a lot more heat in the crown because of silicone content and this heat has to be dissipated into the walls by the rings, therefore top ring gets hotter and needs a wider gap. use piston manuf. specs for this gap. As for KBs/Silvolites. I would use a different brand than those. Federal Mogul or Speed Pro would certainly be favored over KB/Silvolite IMO.

Why not measure ACTUAL valve lift first? Make sure you didn't wipe any loves. You can simply put a dial indicator on the retainers and measure valve lift, then compare them (and recalcualte using your actual rocker ratio to get lobe lift) With the actual ratio possibly being a little off, comparing the lobes is key.

How will you "know" your compression? The wording on a compression tester is a little confusing. it's a cylinder pressure meter. It does not measure the compression (ratio) and the 2 are not directly linked. In other words, if you say get a pressure reading of 180psi, it in NO WAY says anything concrete about your CR.

MYBAD79
07-07-2008, 06:11 PM
Thanks for clearing that up, so putting in 'flat' flat-tops would be best, unless they would increase compression too much to allow for the use of normal pump gas.

Once I know my compression and I am sure everything is in order, I was thinking of putting in hypereutectics like these: [Only registered and activated users can see links]

What would be good rings to go with this type of piston?

These pistons (+7cc dome) will raise your CR to over 11:1, too high. I base the calculation on 4.030 bore, stroke 3.48, piston .025" in the hole and a standard .040" gasket (with a thinner gasket the CR is even higher).

With the -13cc dished pistons that you have and a .028" gasket you're in the 9.2:1 CR ballpark. Perfect for pump gas and a mild cam like the stock L82 - the 224-230 that you have is a little hot for the CR. The carb is too big IMO also, it'll work but a 600cfm would be big enough.

Twin_Turbo
07-07-2008, 06:16 PM
Those are similar in crown design to the stock L82 piston, also with a 7cc valve relief. No way you will raise the compression that high. More realistically it'll be right around 9.5:1 with that kind of piston.

I see where you goofed Karsten :) 7cc dome, it has a 7c dish, so you are 14cc's off on your calculation :D

MYBAD79
07-07-2008, 06:16 PM
BTW, the Hooker side exhaust headers have 1 3/4" primaries, 1 5/8" are better suited for a 350ci SB and the reverse flow baffles are also robbing HP.

MYBAD79
07-07-2008, 06:19 PM
Those are similar in crown design to the stock L82 piston, also with a 7cc valve relief. No way you will raise the compression that high. More realistically it'll be right around 9.5:1 with that kind of piston.

Yes, -7cc dish gets you to 9.5:1, the pistons in that link are +7cc dome and raise CR to 11.3:1

Edit: the description on Summit's website says +7cc (does not say 'dished -7cc')

[Only registered and activated users can see links]

Twin_Turbo
07-07-2008, 06:22 PM
The pistons in the pic are 7cc dished, I think Summit has the description screwed up. See, it says flat top, and a dome is no flat top. It also says 2 valve reliefs, but it has an asymmetrical shaped single large relief (2 together).

I'm 99.999999% certain that the actual piston is a 7cc dish :)

MYBAD79
07-07-2008, 06:34 PM
I checked their KB 4 valve relief pistons and they're also listed as +7cc. The distance from wrist pin centerline to the top is listed as 1.561 (4 valve relief). Therefore half stroke (1.740") plus rod length (5.700") plus 1.561" is 9.001". It is a flat top piston with 7cc valve relief volume, the description is wrong, it should be -7cc.

Hyper piston and 11:1CR would be a bad choice :cry:

Worship79
07-07-2008, 08:02 PM
That's fast, great :cool:

BTW, the Hooker side exhaust headers have 1 3/4" primaries, 1 5/8" are better suited for a 350ci SB and the reverse flow baffles are also robbing HP.

Changing the Hookers isn't really an option right now, but the baffles are going to be replaced. Not going to put in expensive STS baffles (yet) right away; I was thinking about starting with something cheap(er) like Max Flows or similar. Just to see the difference versus the reverse flows and then decide. After all else checks out first ofcourse.

Why not measure ACTUAL valve lift first? Make sure you didn't wipe any loves. You can simply put a dial indicator on the retainers and measure valve lift, then compare them (and recalcualte using your actual rocker ratio to get lobe lift) With the actual ratio possibly being a little off, comparing the lobes is key.

I will: a buddy of mine just contacted me I could borrow his (digital) dial indicator (Mitutoyo) and magnet bracket.

How will you "know" your compression? The wording on a compression tester is a little confusing. it's a cylinder pressure meter. It does not measure the compression (ratio) and the 2 are not directly linked. In other words, if you say get a pressure reading of 180psi, it in NO WAY says anything concrete about your CR.

Oh, I was referring to me mailing corteco to inform about compressed thickness and bore diametre of the gaskets I used. With those numbers the compression ratio should be pretty accurate, right? I'm aware knowing DCR is more useful, I'll probably get to that too somewhere along the line. :)

Those are similar in crown design to the stock L82 piston, also with a 7cc valve relief. No way you will raise the compression that high. More realistically it'll be right around 9.5:1 with that kind of piston.

9.5:1 would be what I'm aiming at, given that higher compression does provide more power. It does, doesn't it? Or am I seeing things wrong?

Let's say everything checks out and me replacing and rerouting the plugwires, new airfilter and other baffles still only get me 205 RWHP. Putting in new pistons (I'll leave type and brand in the middle for now) should increase horsepower and torque? :stirpot:

MYBAD79
07-07-2008, 08:13 PM
Let's say everything checks out and me replacing and rerouting the plugwires, new airfilter and other baffles still only get me 205 RWHP. Putting in new pistons (I'll leave type and brand in the middle for now) should increase horsepower and torque? :stirpot:

I agree, leave the Hookers alone and add the Maxflows later - I have Maxflows too and like them, I posted a video in off topic if you want to hear them

My old setup was a L48 with flat tops and 64cc Edelbrocks. I ran the mild Performer cam and a performer intake and 600cfm carb. It felt a lot stronger than 205HP. With that mild cam (194-202) the engine had a ton of low end power but wouldn't go past 5500 (estimate, I never had a tach with that setup).
So yes, if you install flat tops you'll have a nice powerful engine, with your cam it should easily rev 6000 and higher, be careful with that cast crank :ill:

Worship79
07-07-2008, 08:42 PM
Good to hear I'm somewhere in the right direction :)

I'm not intending on going past 5500 except for the occasional WOT take off (god I love flooring it from a standstill :devil:).

BRUTAL64
07-07-2008, 08:52 PM
I checked their KB 4 valve relief pistons and they're also listed as +7cc. The distance from wrist pin centerline to the top is listed as 1.561 (4 valve relief). Therefore half stroke (1.740") plus rod length (5.700") plus 1.561" is 9.001". It is a flat top piston with 7cc valve relief volume, the description is wrong, it should be -7cc.

Hyper piston and 11:1CR would be a bad choice :cry:


Well, I have 11:1cr with Alum heads, Hyper pistons and the 30 30 cam. No problem with 91 octane.:beer:

Got a real close look at the spring this week-end. Nice, very nice.:drink:

MYBAD79
07-08-2008, 12:13 AM
Wow I did not think that hyper pistons would work with 11:1 cr and 91 octane gas... I thought that with that combo you're dumping two bottles booster in the tank everytime you fill up :sweat:

Hyper pistons are sensitive to detonation, it would worry me and I'd listen for the slightest pinging noise... it would drive me nutz....

Anyways, at 9.5:1 cr the engine should run fine. The cam and the primaries are not a perfect match but it should still work out pretty nice.

With a .028" gasket (MrGasket) you're at 9.85:1CR with -7cc pistons. That should work very good.

Worship79
07-09-2008, 01:42 PM
Great! I like to plan ahead to avoid as much surprises as possible.

Too bad corteco hasn't responded yet, but since I'm pressed for time due to an exam anyway I'll give them another few days (before calling them or something).

Twin_Turbo
07-09-2008, 04:42 PM
Why on earth did you use corteco gaskets?

Worship79
07-09-2008, 07:17 PM
I used corteco because they were recommended to me by the person who helped me assemble the new parts. The kit included every gasket needed and they did seem good quality to me (I am a n00b however, what do I know ;)).

In the meantime they have replied (I'm so impatient :D) and using this compressed gasket thickness my calculator comes to 8.67:1 compression. Stepping up to -7 cc pistons would bring me to 9.2:1 and flat would take me to a theoretical 9.91:1 compression.

Below is Corteco's full reply:


The set 32222-1CS is for the Chevrolet V-8 application often referred to as
the 'small block V-8". The gasket, part number 20312, is extremely robust
for street use and performance applications. We have seen its successful
use in typical street engines making 300 hp and performance engines up to
700 hp. It has a special steel shim between the center cylinders to prevent
crush out and burn out common on competitor products. The gasket is white
in color and uses our patented coating process that provides excellent
sealing, motion accommodation, and clean release on disassembly. I believe
this is the best gasket available for this Chevrolet V-8 application.

The gasket will accommodate a 4.1inch bore size. Fit depends on your
cylinder chamfer, not just the bore size; always check fit. The
manufactured thickness is nominally 0.056 inches and the compressed
thickness will be about 0.052inches. Always use clean lightly lubricated
bolts with a drop of oil under the head. Follow the torque spec. Use
sealer on the appropriate bolts on this application as a few of the bolts go
into the block coolant jacket.

This gasket will seal any surface finish from very smooth (20 micro inches
roughness average, Ra) to rough at more than 100 micro inches Ra.
The range of 50-70 micro inch Ra surface finish, which looks very smooth, is ideal. We never recommend a rough surface finish for any gasket. Some machine shops are only capable of achieving a rough surface finish, and our coating system accommodates reasonably rough finishes to help our customers.

Regards,

[name removed]
Director of Technology, Sealing Products
ROL Manufacturing

MYBAD79
07-09-2008, 08:16 PM
With .052" compressed thickness head gaskets and the piston .025" down in the hole you have really bad quench (.077"). With the Victor Reitz or MrGasket head gasket it'll be a lot better (.051"-.053").

Do these corteco gaskets need to be retorqued ? The MrGasket gaskets that I use don't require re-torquing.

Worship79
07-09-2008, 09:48 PM
With .052" compressed thickness head gaskets and the piston .025" down in the hole you have really bad quench (.077"). With the Victor Reitz or MrGasket head gasket it'll be a lot better (.051"-.053").

Do these corteco gaskets need to be retorqued ? The MrGasket gaskets that I use don't require re-torquing.

I think not, but will check. Should I install new gaskets, I'll install new pistons as well. This is purely a matter of being efficient: I don't have my own garage. So if I have to rent a place to be able (be allowed to) to take off the heads, I might as well do it right (should have done that in the first place, I know, I know :blush:) while everything is off.

Twin_Turbo
07-09-2008, 10:12 PM
How many miles on that motor? For new pistons you want to have the bores bored and honed to get a fresh bore (not tapered) and for a proper cross hatch finish to break in the new rings.

Don't have someone clown around with a drill and a 3 stone hone, it's not a 2 stroke bike you're working with here. For a proper sealing cylinder you'll need a lot more than that. You need a sunnen or similar powerhone and the tools to check the bore diameter so you have the proper piston clearance. Buy the pistons first and then match the bores to the pistons. might as well want to either replace the rods or install some arp bolts and check the big end for out of stretch (they're always out of round over the side this so the bearing shells don't crush inward and screw up the bearing clearance), these stock (X) rods like to stretch and give bearing clearance problems. Might as well do it right and get some powder machined rods. They are cheap and plenty strong. Some fresh main bearings, a good journal polish and if you can spring for it some bob weight/spin balancing on the crank won't hurt either, otherwise just weight match and trim to match the sets of rods & pistons you'll be using.

IF you do not want to have the block bored & honed oversize and know (or want to believe) you have little or no bore taper you can get a fresh finish on the bore with a bottle brush hone. It's vastly superior to a glaze breaker hone and much easier to use.

Of course you'll need new gaskets, you can't reuse the old.

Worship79
07-10-2008, 10:43 AM
About 27.500 miles on the motor. It was installed in '95 or '97 (have to check invoice previous owner) at 72-something K-miles and just recently I past the 99999 marker.

zero miles

According to the invoice supposedly a performer cam was installed, but during disassembly a GM camshaft came out :suspicious:

So, if I want to do things properly (and I do), then I have to:

- buy new pistons, .030 over (Speed Pro ZH100CP30 ?),
- buy new connecting rods (GM Performance 12495071 ?),
- buy new rings (type/brand?),
- buy new bearings (type/brand?),
- buy new connecting rod bolts (type/ARP?),
- machine shop bore and hone,
- journal polish,
- bob weight/spin balancing on the crank or weight match and
- trim to match the sets of rods & pistons.

Correct?

I wonder if those costs weigh up to for example installing smaller combustion chamber heads (say 60cc) and a thinner head gasket plus perhaps decking the block? What about milling the heads combined with decking and thinner gaskets?

Perhaps even buying a new shortblock (383...?) could be more cost-effective?

Any thoughts on this? I'd like to consider every option and then choose a route to follow.

MYBAD79
07-10-2008, 11:27 AM
Considering that you could sell your short block (I believe in Europe they're more valuable than here) a 383 short block might be the best way to go, however shipping to Europe isn't cheap....a "average" 383 short block with name brand parts is about $1500 assembled, the cheap ones start at $1000.

Thoughts ? Find out how much the machine work for your block will cost you and then go from there.

You could also just disassemble and measure the bores, if they're in good shape bottle brush them and slap a set of new pistons/rings in there and go (with balancing and new bearings of course).

Twin_Turbo
07-10-2008, 03:35 PM
Well, For all those machining operations you can count on at least 1500 euros to have it done properly, not including shaving the deck down (which is a good idea, you'll end up with a nice straight deck and you can cut it down to be able to use a decent thickness gasket without having too much quench height)

Rings, bearings..most will do. Some hastings moly faced rings, some clevite 77 bearings, it'll do just fine. If you buy connecting rods and arp bolts you might as well get some rods that already come with them. Many shops sell aftermarket rods with arp bolts for a good price, certainly less than having your stockers resized.

What are you exactly aiming for? If you are aiming for oh say 350 horse <5K rpm mostly, decent cruiser I wouldn't go through the trouble of balancing the crank. Just get some new psitons and decent rods or if the old ones check out use those (but DO check the big end for stretch) and then go from there. Bottle brush hone the bores and weight match the rods & pistons as good as you can. It'll run just fine.

IF you decide to go with different rods and pistons, might as well get some floaters and do away with the press fit.

Worship79
07-10-2008, 05:42 PM
300 to 350 horse would do just fine indeed, otherwise I'd have to beef up other parts of my corvette way sooner than I'm planning to (next up: new rad., elec. fan, spreaderbar, fiber spring, koni shocks, even foose/boyd wheels perhaps).

So, in short the plan would be:
- new pistons, rings and bearings,
- check rod ends for strech / new rods and bolts if streched,
- Bottle brush hone bores,
- Weight match rods & pistons,
- Deck the block.

Is the weight matching a machine job or something I should do during part selection?

Twin_Turbo
07-10-2008, 05:48 PM
What you need to do first is get yourself some bore dials to measure the cylinders for taper and the rod big ends. If you don't have one, there's another trick. You can assume the rods are stretched, they all are. Most of them even come with 0.0005" oversized bearing shells from the factory. That's half of the commercially available first oversize. If you have that problem, and you want to reuse everything you can buy a set of 10 and std and mix up the shells. Use the thicker shell on the cap (bottom) and the other on the top.

For the cyls however, get a fresh ring and put it in the bore, use a flat top piston to push it down square. Measure the gap on several sections down the bore. The difference will give you an idea on bore taper.

A bottle brush hone will run you 100$ from mcmaster, however they don't ship internationally anymore.

The weight matching can easily done with a lab scale. Just put all your rods and pistons on there (for accuracy also rings, pins and retainers) and sort them all according to size. Then match them all up to get them as equal (paired rods & pistons) as possible. Then you can trim the balance pads on the rods and/or pistons to fine tune.

You can also buy a balancing fixture for your rods, that still leaves the pistons to be done.

The key to getting it right is meticulous working practices and cleanliness.

Do you have an SBC building book? It will be a worthwhile addition to your book collection. It will guide you through everything, tolerances, bearing crush, ring gap clocking and so on...and so on. It's just too much to lay it all out here.

Worship79
07-10-2008, 07:54 PM
Thanks Marck :thumbs:

It probably will be some time before I actually get to measuring the bores, have to address current issues first and ofcourse there will be something with a newborn in august ;)

Do you have an SBC building book? It will be a worthwhile addition to your book collection. It will guide you through everything, tolerances, bearing crush, ring gap clocking and so on...and so on. It's just too much to lay it all out here.

Yep: Rebuilding The Small Block Chevy (Larry Atherton & Larry Schreib), which comes with a handy DVD, a buyers guide (Micheal Lamm), a Haynes, a Chiltons, an AIM and another SBC assembly DVD which I can't find right now.

However, theory and practice -even with DVD's- differ a lot in my opinion. I learned a great deal from the first upgrade, just by watching and listening to someone who has done a build many times before. I think half of what he told me during assembly wasn't in a book.

But: if you know a few more good books or DVD's, please let me know.

Twin_Turbo
07-10-2008, 08:00 PM
A DVD huh? I think I have that book but no DVD.

There's a step by step book on building SBCs too, I think it's blue.

MYBAD79
07-11-2008, 01:56 AM
these are the best books: you find them cheap on Amazon.com

[Only registered and activated users can see links]

Worship79
07-11-2008, 11:33 AM
The upper right one I have and it does have a DVD included. Perhaps TT has an earlier print? I also have the ChevyHighperformance book 'How to build a chevy small-block for the street', but that's more a collection of their articles.

I'll get myself an amazon account right away :idea:

MYBAD79
07-11-2008, 01:44 PM
You're correct, the newer version includes a DVD

The "big inch small blocks" book is great, you might want to consider a inexpensive cast stroker assembly: includes crank,rods,pistons, rings, maybe bearings for under $900 (600 Euro) :1st:

Worship79
07-11-2008, 03:23 PM
Yes, I talked things through with my mechanic and he said the same thing. However his price for a stroker shortblock was around € 1700,- ex. Where would I find a block for $900,-?

MYBAD79
07-11-2008, 04:21 PM
That's $900 for a name brand rotating assembly (no block) from Summit/Jegs.

Measure your bores and measure the taper. IF the holes are straight and clean at first oversize 4.030" then bottle brush and go ... or have the block machined to .040" over and decked to get better CR and quench (you need to know what pistons you want to make this decision).

1700 Euro for a 383 short block is not all that bad considering your location (depending on components of course, name brand stuff or china made)... with the high shipping cost is could cost you more to have a short block built here and shipped....

If your block is fine that's what I'd use (because of your location) - here in the US assembled short blocks start at $1000

BRUTAL64
07-11-2008, 05:41 PM
You're correct, the newer version includes a DVD

The "big inch small blocks" book is great, you might want to consider a inexpensive cast stroker assembly: includes crank,rods,pistons, rings, maybe bearings for under $900 (600 Euro) :1st:

Agree, the Big Inch Small Block book is great. :goodevil:

Twin_Turbo
07-11-2008, 07:27 PM
You already have a block, if you're interested I have 4 bolt main block complete, it needs an overbore however because 1 cyl. is rusty but it's a std. bore 010 020 (high nickel & tin) block, an excellent base for a nice motor. Much better than your goodwrench one.

You have a DVD burner I presume and you're 'puter savvy enough to create a disc image and burn it? :bounce::yahoo:

Worship79
07-11-2008, 08:04 PM
$900,- in the US is € 1170,- in NL (or $1815,-). Add the boring, honing, balancing and decking to that and a new shortblock almost certainly is cheaper. Plus my block needs to be clearanced should I want to stroke it.

But, I'll first get the price for separate components and machining and then measure that against a assembled shortblock.

Twin_Turbo
07-11-2008, 08:06 PM
The clearancing is childs play, there's little to it really.

Worship79
07-11-2008, 08:06 PM
You already have a block, if you're interested I have 4 bolt main block complete, it needs an overbore however because 1 cyl. is rusty but it's a std. bore 010 020 (high nickel & tin) block, an excellent base for a nice motor. Much better than your goodwrench one.

You have a DVD burner I presume and you're 'puter savvy enough to create a disc image and burn it? :bounce::yahoo:

Interesting! So I would only need pistons, rings, an overbore and a hone, right?

Edit: ofcourse I can burn you a copy. (If the MPAA asks, I did not say this :D)

Twin_Turbo
07-11-2008, 08:12 PM
Yes, the crank spins smooth so no need for an align bore, the caps are all fine.

In fact, I have yet another engine. it's a 350 complete and it's in perfect condition. it does have similar 4 relief cast flat top pistons but it was a running motor, I just pulled the heads off. It's also a 4 bolt block, 010. Slap on some heads and it will run just fine. It doesn't need any machining at all....ready to run.

Worship79
07-11-2008, 09:26 PM
Also interesting :chinese: Could you perhaps send me some more detailed information? Brands, what's on it, what's not (balancer, timing chain, flex plate?), age, mileage, that kind of stuff would be great.

Wonder what I could sell my current shortblock for... Ah well, plenty time to research all options, after my kid's born I think I won't have time for the 'vette for a few months :)

MYBAD79
07-11-2008, 11:17 PM
Ah well, plenty time to research all options, after my kid's born I think I won't have time for the 'vette for a few months :)

Buy all your stuff now... once the kid is born you won't have time/money/permission from wife ... :1st:

comp
07-12-2008, 01:02 AM
Ah well, plenty time to research all options, after my kid's born I think I won't have time for the 'vette for a few months :)

Buy all your stuff now... once the kid is born you won't have time/money/permission from wife ... :1st:

Oh Thats So True

Worship79
07-13-2008, 09:14 AM
My wife just said she resents time and money being a problem :amused:

Unfortunately, bad things have happened, forcing us to pack up and leave our home overnight. So the 'vette will have to wait untill we've moved, which might be quite a few months. :bomb: :censored: :cussing:

SmokinBBC
07-13-2008, 01:28 PM
My wife just said she resents time and money being a problem :amused:

Unfortunately, bad things have happened, forcing us to pack up and leave our home overnight. So the 'vette will have to wait untill we've moved, which might be quite a few months. :bomb: :censored: :cussing:

Sorry to hear this. Taking care of your family is number 1. The vette will wait. Hope things work out you.

MYBAD79
07-13-2008, 11:44 PM
My wife just said she resents time and money being a problem :amused:

Unfortunately, bad things have happened, forcing us to pack up and leave our home overnight. So the 'vette will have to wait untill we've moved, which might be quite a few months. :bomb: :censored: :cussing:

hope everything turns out ok.... best wishes :thumbs:

comp
07-14-2008, 12:00 AM
My wife just said she resents time and money being a problem :amused:

Unfortunately, bad things have happened, forcing us to pack up and leave our home overnight. So the 'vette will have to wait untill we've moved, which might be quite a few months. :bomb: :censored: :cussing:

hope everything turns out ok.... best wishes :thumbs:

i agree,,best to ya'

Worship79
07-18-2008, 09:44 PM
Thanks guys! Glass company and carpenter came by today and yesterday... need a new front door and window. Both door and glass need to be special ordered because of the non-standard sizes. That takes up the whole 'vette budget, but at least we're all still in one peace. :)

We had a group of five 'hoodies' making noise in front of our house late at night. :mad: My 8 month pregnant girlfriend asked politely if they could keep it down and in reply they tried to kick in our front door and threatened her. :bonkers: They also threatened to throw in our windows, which they did at 2:30 in the morning! :cussing:

Needless to say, we packed our bags first thing in the morning. These guys, part of a larger group of unemployed, good-for-nothing, ill-manered, frankly just criminal hoodlums have been causing trouble in our neighbourhood for over 2 years now and officials are doing nothing about it. Apperantly it's okay to hang around drinking, smoking weed, throwing in busstop windows and wrecking other people's property, but if I park somewhere I shouldn't for 5 minutes... :bomb:

Anyway, this was the final drop (well, more of a flood actually), we have moved to a safe location and we're selling our house asap. :surrender: This country is going to hell rapidly :evil:

MYBAD79
07-19-2008, 12:42 AM
holy crap :eek:

get out of there before worse things happen...

Insurance is not covering it ? If even the slightest tiny piece of your property got stolen it's burglary which is usually covered (vandalism is not covered)....

Twin_Turbo
07-19-2008, 06:29 AM
Wait, are you saying the ever vigilant police force did nothing about it? Did they give you that crap about not being able to do anything about it..yadda yadda...

Typical!

Worship79
07-19-2008, 04:15 PM
Wait, are you saying the ever vigilant police force did nothing about it? Did they give you that crap about not being able to do anything about it..yadda yadda...

Typical!

That's what they did :footmouth:

We got out of there alright, looking for a realtor already. Insurancecompany hasn't responded yet, but I need a new door and window, so I'll fight that battle later.

Thanks for the support guys :beer: