'57 Chevy Pickup project

mrvette

Phantom of the Opera
Joined
Mar 24, 2008
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Location
NE Florida
Tom Slater
For the Jeep: rear sway bar (factory option I'm missing) with mounts & links, replacement AC compressor, spare drive belt. For the '57 project: Astro Van hydroboost. All in for $130 bucks, some of which is refundable w/ core return.
While
I was there, I noticed that all the Chevy trucks / vans from 71-87 use a removable cross member for the whole damn front suspension. Looks like a bandsaw and a welder could narrow it some for use in the '57. Going to talk to some fabrication guys before I spring for it, though.


the above is a copy paste from my son on facebook, anyone know anything about narrowing that suspension??? he already has a LS engine for it....

wants to go for disc brakes, good wheels tires/power steering, maybe a Tilt wheel of some reasonable diameter....something a ~130 lbs chick can drive....

:search::flash:
 
I hate to say it, but the best bolt-in front suspension out there right now is the one out of the panther platform (Ford cop cars). Aluminum, the entire assembly bolts in (like the chev. van), good geometry, rack n pinion, solid aftermarket support, and a zillion made and wrecked (good availability).

Only downside is the bolt pattern on the wheels
 
bolt pattern is no biggie.... either drill the hubs for the Chevy pattern and press in some ARP studs.... or use a hubcentric adapter that has both bolt patterns..... tire will be sitting 1" further outboard with the adapter but with most rims/tires there's an inch room......
personally, I'd drill the hubs ..... but you also want the rim to centered on the hub.... might have to weld build up the OD of the centering ring and throw it on a lathe to get it to match the new rim.... maybe you're lucky and the Ford centering ring is bigger than Chevy's..... then you only have to cut it down.....(no weld buildup)
 
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bolt pattern is no biggie.... either drill the hubs for the Chevy pattern and press in some ARP studs.... or use a hubcentric adapter that has both bolt patterns..... tire will be sitting 1" further outboard with the adapter but with most rims/tires there's an inch room......
personally, I'd drill the hubs ..... but you also want the rim to centered on the hub.... might have to weld build up the OD of the centering ring and throw it on a lathe to get it to match the new rim.... maybe you're lucky and the Ford centering ring is bigger than Chevy's..... then you only have to cut it down.....(no weld buildup)

Check around, I remember being able to get GM hub/rotors with bearings to bolt to the mustang II spindle. Maybe you can find something like that to get the GM pattern you want
 
My 56 is sitting on a complete 1983 3/4 ton chevy truck chassis that I have installed 3 inch dropped spindles and softer front springs.
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These guys make suspension crossmember for Mustang II

http://www.welderseries.com/blog/mustang-ii-application-chart/

http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/ws14540/

Heres a video, it's basicly lazer cut steel you have to bend it, weld it and fit it to whatever car or truck youre working on..
pretty neat

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FoYOYT1iZTY&feature=player_embedded#!

I've used that suspension on my CTS Spider, they do nice work, and they're very inexpensive.

http://www.bangshift.com/forum/showthread.php/29229-CTS-Spider
 
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