Runout plates

1st time I seen that but the procedure for checking runout is the same as what I did when I rebuilt my TA's (per Gtr1999)
 
:clap: As far as my '72 is concerned, I just took some aluminum foil under the lo side, and built up the adjacent studs appropriately, put the rotor on and it's near perfect, and with my O ring pistons and no springs behind them, they been on there for maybe 7 years now....:shocking:
 
redvetracr said:
those correction plates are cool, anyone know where to look and see what series plates fit a C-2/C-3 ??
Click to expand...

I think it'ss cool too, did a bit of research, looks like it's been around for a while ,
found this where the sell some plates and I saw some on e-bay.

http://www.toolshackanaheim.com/006_CORRECT_PLATE_p/bal-814-06-01.htm

https://www.dmauto.com/web/dmauto/C...+V8++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++/3/3004/

Looks like GM dealers are installing those things, heres a thread that talks about it .
Look for post #7
http://chevroletforum.com/forum/impala-14/another-late-impala-2007-warped-rotors-17697/
 
Last edited:
mrvette said:
:clap: As far as my '72 is concerned, I just took some aluminum foil under the lo side, and built up the adjacent studs appropriately, put the rotor on and it's near perfect, and with my O ring pistons and no springs behind them, they been on there for maybe 7 years now....:shocking:
Click to expand...

I used Stainless Steel Shim stock and cut my own for the low side
 
Stpman said:
mrvette said:
:clap: As far as my '72 is concerned, I just took some aluminum foil under the lo side, and built up the adjacent studs appropriately, put the rotor on and it's near perfect, and with my O ring pistons and no springs behind them, they been on there for maybe 7 years now....:shocking:
Click to expand...

I used Stainless Steel Shim stock and cut my own for the low side
Click to expand...

I"m kind of a run what you brung kind of guy, and so took some other poster's recommends from a long ago forum...beer can or tin foil, I forget the exact use but it's been on there for years....
 
mrvette said:
Stpman said:
mrvette said:
:clap: As far as my '72 is concerned, I just took some aluminum foil under the lo side, and built up the adjacent studs appropriately, put the rotor on and it's near perfect, and with my O ring pistons and no springs behind them, they been on there for maybe 7 years now....:shocking:
Click to expand...

I used Stainless Steel Shim stock and cut my own for the low side
Click to expand...

I"m kind of a run what you brung kind of guy, and so took some other poster's recommends from a long ago forum...beer can or tin foil, I forget the exact use but it's been on there for years....
Click to expand...

I'm the same but I was given 10 rolls of various sizes of brass and SS shim stock so that's what I went with
 
Stpman said:
mrvette said:
:clap: As far as my '72 is concerned, I just took some aluminum foil under the lo side, and built up the adjacent studs appropriately, put the rotor on and it's near perfect, and with my O ring pistons and no springs behind them, they been on there for maybe 7 years now....:shocking:
Click to expand...

I used Stainless Steel Shim stock and cut my own for the low side
Click to expand...

Same here...I have different thickness shim stock. Cheaper than $18 per wheel.
 
Couple of things I noted. Since your indicating the rotor at a larger radius than the shim. I would guess that .006 shim varies only app. .003. Second before using the shim, you might try all five different positions a rotor could be put on. You may get lucky and find this alone will remove any or most runout.

Learnt this from an old timer, liquid shim. He would use spray dykem blue as a shim. I wouldn't recommend it for this case, but some times it's the answer. Paint would work also. The plastic wrapper on a cigarette pack is .001. Useful in a machine shop.
Ralphy
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top