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1Michel
06-12-2012, 02:49 AM
Anybody heard about this?

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Stpman
06-12-2012, 11:01 AM
1st time I seen that but the procedure for checking runout is the same as what I did when I rebuilt my TA's (per Gtr1999)

mrvette
06-12-2012, 01:45 PM
:clap: As far as my '72 is concerned, I just took some aluminum foil under the lo side, and built up the adjacent studs appropriately, put the rotor on and it's near perfect, and with my O ring pistons and no springs behind them, they been on there for maybe 7 years now....:shocking:

redvetracr
06-12-2012, 02:57 PM
those correction plates are cool, anyone know where to look and see what series plates fit a C-2/C-3 ??

1Michel
06-12-2012, 03:17 PM
those correction plates are cool, anyone know where to look and see what series plates fit a C-2/C-3 ??

I think it'ss cool too, did a bit of research, looks like it's been around for a while ,
found this where the sell some plates and I saw some on e-bay.

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Looks like GM dealers are installing those things, heres a thread that talks about it .
Look for post #7
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redvetracr
06-12-2012, 04:09 PM
looking at your middle link, it looks like the 803 series plates fits our cars.

1Michel
06-12-2012, 05:29 PM
1st time I seen that but the procedure for checking runout is the same as what I did when I rebuilt my TA's (per Gtr1999)

Yeah the procedure cant realy change, but I think it beats the little pieces of metal that could be lost.
IF it works like they claim.

I like

redvetracr
06-12-2012, 06:03 PM
1st time I seen that but the procedure for checking runout is the same as what I did when I rebuilt my TA's (per Gtr1999)

Yeah the procedure cant realy change, but I think it beats the little pieces of metal that could be lost.
IF it works like they claim.

I like


I like too but I don`t think "I like" $18 a corner.

1Michel
06-12-2012, 06:27 PM
I like too but I don`t think "I like" $18 a corner.

I dont either, I guess the cost comes from having to machine and grind the plates to a specific taper.

mrvette
06-12-2012, 07:45 PM
I like too but I don`t think "I like" $18 a corner.

I dont either, I guess the cost comes from having to machine and grind the plates to a specific taper.

Sure, not any issue with that, especially if done HERE, not China, Inc....

but I question the need for the product, given my experience....

:crutches:

Stpman
06-12-2012, 08:42 PM
:clap: As far as my '72 is concerned, I just took some aluminum foil under the lo side, and built up the adjacent studs appropriately, put the rotor on and it's near perfect, and with my O ring pistons and no springs behind them, they been on there for maybe 7 years now....:shocking:

I used Stainless Steel Shim stock and cut my own for the low side

mrvette
06-12-2012, 08:59 PM
:clap: As far as my '72 is concerned, I just took some aluminum foil under the lo side, and built up the adjacent studs appropriately, put the rotor on and it's near perfect, and with my O ring pistons and no springs behind them, they been on there for maybe 7 years now....:shocking:

I used Stainless Steel Shim stock and cut my own for the low side

I"m kind of a run what you brung kind of guy, and so took some other poster's recommends from a long ago forum...beer can or tin foil, I forget the exact use but it's been on there for years....

Stpman
06-13-2012, 12:08 AM
:clap: As far as my '72 is concerned, I just took some aluminum foil under the lo side, and built up the adjacent studs appropriately, put the rotor on and it's near perfect, and with my O ring pistons and no springs behind them, they been on there for maybe 7 years now....:shocking:

I used Stainless Steel Shim stock and cut my own for the low side

I"m kind of a run what you brung kind of guy, and so took some other poster's recommends from a long ago forum...beer can or tin foil, I forget the exact use but it's been on there for years....

I'm the same but I was given 10 rolls of various sizes of brass and SS shim stock so that's what I went with

SmokinBBC
06-13-2012, 12:47 AM
:clap: As far as my '72 is concerned, I just took some aluminum foil under the lo side, and built up the adjacent studs appropriately, put the rotor on and it's near perfect, and with my O ring pistons and no springs behind them, they been on there for maybe 7 years now....:shocking:

I used Stainless Steel Shim stock and cut my own for the low side

Same here...I have different thickness shim stock. Cheaper than $18 per wheel.

Ralphy
06-14-2012, 01:01 AM
Couple of things I noted. Since your indicating the rotor at a larger radius than the shim. I would guess that .006 shim varies only app. .003. Second before using the shim, you might try all five different positions a rotor could be put on. You may get lucky and find this alone will remove any or most runout.

Learnt this from an old timer, liquid shim. He would use spray dykem blue as a shim. I wouldn't recommend it for this case, but some times it's the answer. Paint would work also. The plastic wrapper on a cigarette pack is .001. Useful in a machine shop.
Ralphy