bellhousing ball stud

denpo

denpo

Carburated Nihilist
Joined
Jul 14, 2010
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Montreal, QC
Ok, this is probably the last newbie question concerning my auto to manual swap.
This is about the scattershield ball stud the fork is pivoting on.
It is screwed in the scattershield and has a Allen key head in the back.

Is it meant to be adjusted to modify the fork travel in some way or just be screwed all the way down?
I've looked on the web but infos on this subject is scarce.
 
Which one do you have? Lakewood does sell adjustable ones. they have a slotted collar that kind of looks like how the light switch is held in.
 
Fuelie74 said:
You need to make sure you have the right length ball stud or your clutch won't work.
Click to expand...
Interesting, any way to figure this out?
Right now I have a little play in the fork, and look it would have pretty of travel available.
I can't make the fork move the throwout bearing with my bare hand, but I think it's pretty normal.

16554ed9ebbd18134.jpg
 
Garys 68 said:
Actually, you need the correct geometry with the fork, stud, and throwout bearing.
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/clutches_etc.htm
Click to expand...

The article tells how the fork should be aligned, which is related to my pivot length question.
Taken from the article (on how to choose the correct release bearing):
Option I: Most Precise
Install the correct length clutch fork on a 1½" long pivot that has the correct head type for the retainer on the fork (refer to fork and pivot information previously discussed). Position the fork so it sticks out of the clutch housing at about 4 or 5 degrees less than a right angle with the engine centerline (this would be when looking down on the engine from above—the fork should be ahead of, or less than a 90 degree angle by 4 or 5 degrees). Hold the fork at this angle and measure from the inner front thrust surfaces of the fork to the diaphragm spring (or fingers) of the clutch. Choose a release bearing length from the "A" dimension in the chart below that is closest to the measured length.
When measuring, try to keep the inner ends of the fork parallel with the clutch—it is possible to be off as much as 3/16" if not parallel.
Obtain a release bearing based on the above measurement and install it on the fork. Be advised that forks with the flat type spring require that the tips of the fork AS WELL AS THE TIPS OF THE SPRING are installed in the groove of the release bearing.
Click to expand...
Ok, so, those 5 degrees, are they toward the front or the back of the car??
I've read the sentence tens of time, and I'm still unsure, excuse my french brain.
 
Kid Vette said:
denpo said:
Ok, so, those 5 degrees, are they toward the front or the back of the car??
I've read the sentence tens of time, and I'm still unsure, excuse my french brain.
Click to expand...
Toward the front.
Click to expand...

So that means the fork is always pressing lightly the release bearing against the clutch's diaphragm, just enough to keep them in contact, as the fork spring tries to put the fork into its "rest" position position.
Am i right?
 
The external part of the fork should point forward 5 degrees, such that when the throwout bearing initially touches the clutch it will be approaching a right angle.
The spring pulls the external part of the fork forward so that the bearing is NOT touching the clutch when the pedal is depressed.
The throwout beasring should not touch the clutch without depressing it. It will wear out fast if it does.
 
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