converting mechanical to hydraulic clutch

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clutchdust

Millionaire Playboy
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I would like to get a little softer pedal but don't see how the hydraulic would give me any mechanical advantage over the lever set up.
Even so, I'm still thinking of changing out the old, clunky mechanical set up for a hydraulic conversion. Anybody done this? What did you use? Any tips?
 
Pretty useless info but my guess is that you have to change your bellhousing.
I'm looking for parts to convert from auto>manual so I'm looking for parts.
 
I did the conversion and wasn't happy with it, so I switch to mechanical linkage. I didn't like the feel of the clutch or lack of feel for better terms. I also had some trouble with leaks at didn't make me very happy. So I have a hydraulic clutch setup for a WC GM T5 that also fits some T56's that I would make someone a hell of a deal on.
 
McLeod makes a hydraulic clutch kit. I looked at it pretty long and hard. Finally decided to stick to the stock mechanical. One of their selling points that caught my eye was that the hydraulic clutch allowed you to get away from header clearance problems.
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Not a real consideration relevant to your question. In the mid 60's I was forced to drive a Triumph TR-3. (After I bought the car, I enrolled in graduate school and didn't have any money to replace it.) It had a hydraulic clutch. Every few months, the master and slave hydraulic cylinder took turns failing. This was in addition to quite a few other things that regularly failed. In addition to by mostly theoretical electrical engineering courses, I also was forced into becoming an auto mechanic since I didn't have money to pay people to fix my car. I gradually came to enjoy working on cars. For my next comment....I'd expect that quality of hydraulic clutch systems is much better than my TR-3. That being said, as you can gather I'm a little snake bit when it comes to hydraulic clutches. I'd stick to the simple mechanical systems unless there was some other important motivator (i.e. headers). The new C6 Corvettes have hydraulic clutches I believe.
 
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Imo Apita said:
Pretty useless info but my guess is that you have to change your bellhousing.
I'm looking for parts to convert from auto>manual so I'm looking for parts.
Click to expand...
Depending on the system, I know there's aftermarket conversions that just actuate a conventional lever.

Fuelie74 said:
I did the conversion and wasn't happy with it, so I switch to mechanical linkage. I didn't like the feel of the clutch or lack of feel for better terms. I also had some trouble with leaks at didn't make me very happy. So I have a hydraulic clutch setup for a WC GM T5 that also fits some T56's that I would make someone a hell of a deal on.
Click to expand...
Sounds interesting. Only I have a Richmond 5. :(
68/70Vette said:
McLeod makes a hydraulic clutch kit. I looked at it pretty long and hard. Finally decided to stick to the stock mechanical. One of their selling points that caught my eye was that the hydraulic clutch allowed you to get away from header clearance problems.
....................

Not a real consideration relevant to your question. In the mid 60's I was forced to drive a Triumph TR-3. (After I bought the car, I enrolled in graduate school and didn't have any money to replace it.) It had a hydraulic clutch. Every few months, the master and slave hydraulic cylinder took turns failing. This was in addition to quite a few other things that regularly failed. In addition to by mostly theoretical electrical engineering courses, I also was forced into becoming an auto mechanic since I didn't have money to pay people to fix my car. I gradually came to enjoy working on cars. For my next comment....I'd expect that quality of hydraulic clutch systems is much better than my TR-3. That being said, as you can gather I'm a little snake bit when it comes to hydraulic clutches. I'd stick to the simple mechanical systems unless there was some other important motivator (i.e. headers). The new C6 Corvettes have hydraulic clutches I believe.
Click to expand...

I don't know if that's really a fair comparison. Kind of like saying fuel injection is unreliable and sucky because you had the Cross Fire system. I have a hydraulic clutch, factory, in my '72 240Z and have had no problems out of it. Also, Corvettes have had hydraulic clutches since the c4.

Ironically, the reason I want to change it is for reliability reasons just as much as clearance issues. But I do worry about the feel. I feel the clutch in the c3 far more than I do in the c5 and consequently my shifts are much smoother in the c3. I don't know if it's entirely the mechanical vs the hydraulic clutch that is to account for that though.
 
1Michel said:
DeeVeeEight said:
I have an extra bell housing from my small block that needs a new home. If interested, make an offer.
Click to expand...

Tell Denpo about it, I think he's looking for one.
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You're right Michel, that's on my shopping list.
I'm still looking for a bargained scattershield.
Anyway the guys I should get the T5 from is on vacation for 2 weeks,
and since the tranny is the center piece,
I want it in my garage before launching any radical investment.
 
clutchdust said:
Ironically, the reason I want to change it is for reliability reasons just as much as clearance issues. But I do worry about the feel. I feel the clutch in the c3 far more than I do in the c5 and consequently my shifts are much smoother in the c3.
Click to expand...

If you have a C3 with the stock mechanical clutch mechanism in place, you might want to check for wear. My 70 is a 100,000+ car. With the Z bar, the levers, and the internal parts of the clutch assembly, it's all just simple rod in a hole with a little bit of grease. Over the years, sand accumulates in the grease and the holes get noticeably enlarged. I replaced everything associated with my 1970 clutch mechanisms with new. They showed serious signs of wear. I worry about my 68. I didn't know this at the time I had the 68 apart and didn't have a chance to inspect the clutch mechanism, particularly the parts inside the firewall. I've found Volunteer Vettes to be a good vendor for some of this clutch assembly stuff that others don't seem to have. Comments?
 
DeeVeeEight said:
I have an extra bell housing from my small block that needs a new home. If interested, make an offer.
Click to expand...

You need to quote the part number. I have several used GM bell housings. On my Keith Black BB engine with a mini starter, the bellhousings that would fit had the part number 3899621. Other bellhousings that looked exactly the same, by eyeball, would not fit (i.e.3858403) The ...621 bellhousing I used came on my 68 Corvette. I was mint in that it had no corrosion and had never been sand/media blasted.

About the GM cast aluminum bellhousings. My impression is that they are extremely accurate as to dimensions. I originally was going to use a Lakewood steel scattershield. It was a very sloppy fit. Installing the GM ...621 bellhousing was another experience. It was a tight fit. In fact to install it I had to slap it a few times with a rubber hammer to get it to mate with the Keith Black.

Oh..PS. You don't really need to say it was a bellhousing for your small block. The BB's and SB's all had the same bellhousing.
s

If you bellhousing has no corrosion, and if it hasn't been sand blasted, you should be able to sell it at a good price.
 
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