test fitted itb's

Ok, after some time, i finally got the time to take my victor jr off and test fit my itb's.

This is what they look like




Please ignore all the sanding dust. Everything will have to be cleaned again.

Apparently I have enough room under my L88 hood to fit a cold air intake.

I love that setup. Can't wait to see the completed project.

Are you going to an open airbox that seals against the hood? It would be nice to see that intake when you opened the hood:bounce:

Wel actually I was planning on a sort of air box that draws in air from up front of the radiator, but with a plexiglass top so that they are still visible.

Belgian1979vette said:

Wel actually I was planning on a sort of air box that draws in air from up front of the radiator, but with a plexiglass top so that they are still visible.

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cut a hole in the hood and replace it with moulded plexiglass like the new ZR1

That's looking awesome but I'd get rid of those elite covers. Why not get some carbon ones or some fabbed alu? That will go a lot better with the race look of your IR system.

Carbon valve covers ? Have never seen any.

Had been thinking about building a cold air intake with carbon however.

Scooters makes them.



I thought you had a pretty potent engine, is that a mockup motor? I see .... ramshorns? WTF?

The exhaust was a mockup to get the engine running on my chassis without the body on top (break in since it would still take a long time to get the car completed and I didn't want to keep the engine standing still to long. ) I have headers lying around but not mounted since they came off another car and at the time i tested the engine they were still needed to move the other car around. It's kind of complicated to explain, but it had something to do with my original body being destroyed and needing to buy another car to finish my project.

This is in fact the short stroke engine, not much besides the alu heads will tell. In no way the ramshorn would suffice for this engine, but they were used with break in since I didn't have to cut pipes apart. Everything would slip right up and the engine was not run under power anyway. I even used the Y-pipe system, so...

Well, here goes :





If you look closely you can see the oliver 6.250" rods and a steel crank (3.250"). I don't have any other detailed photo's of the engine.

Did you build it yourself?

Are you running a stock oil pan & pump?

Yes i did build it myself. The pan is stock, the pump is high volume, high pressure with oil cooler.

I would suggest getting a better (baffled) pan and a bolt on screen like from moroso or canton. With that engine you would not want any oiling problems. It's a small investment for great results.

The stock pan IMO is really inadequate, especially for our winding roads. Would hate to see that nice engine go to shits because of it.

What brand crank is that? Some more info on the bottom end?

Is your oil cooler thermostatically controlled? Earls has a nice one for not too crazy money. The mocal ones are junk, rough castings, crappy retainer bracket and very rough cut AN/JIC connections.

A good revving small block, nice

Looks good!

Is that the AFR Hydra Rev kit set-up on the roller lifters?

Well there is some baffling in the pan, as a matter of a fact I think it is stock but not sure. It was the pan that was under my old engine. That engine in itself, although tired, was great to. It had old LT1 internals with 292 turbo heads on them (still have them but there is a small crack in between two valves). What kind of pan do you suggest ?

The crank is an Eagle 4340 steel one with 350 mains and 3.250" stroke. Pistons are JE forged with a slight dome, CR is 10:1. As told before the rods are olivers. The combo should be good to at least 8000. I'm aiming at a top of 7500. Pistons are pretty light as they have to be very short. Crank was lightened a good bit. I would have liked them to have turned the counterweights in a lathe balancing them, but it was a very costly affair so I didn't do it.
Main bearing saddles are steel with splayed caps, line bored.

The valve train is all crane including the rev kit. I had some difficulties due to the fact that the rev bar tilted inward under the pressure of the springs. Apparently the new design of heads don't have the necessary support at the back of the runners (underside where you can see them from the lifter valley). I solved the problem by tapping some holes in the bar and putting a bolt with some locktite in it, to prevent it from tilting. However I'm weary about it since i fear that the bolts could eat into the softer alu of the head. When I start to change a couple of things on the engine. Maybe I have a bar machined that will fit.

The roller rockers are the first thing to go. They will be changed for a JESEL shaft rocker setup. Then I will change the timing cover to a 2 piece unit together with the custom cam Crane grind for me.
Oil cooler is B&M with thermostat control. I also have a oil thermostat controlling the flow toward the cooler when cold.

I was a bit in the twilight with the CR, since I could in fact go a tad higher, but that would require disassembling the engine and decking the block a little more. At the same time i could deshroud the valves even more since I have large enough bores

One with a kicked out sump and even better trapdoors. You can get them from moroso, canton and such with accompanying oil pump pickups.

If you are worried about the bolts, use studs instead! Thread them in all the way, fingertight and then just locktite the nut on to hold the bar.

Just, wow! Love that induction setup.

Ok thx,

An dry sump system would ensure that there would be no problems, but there are cost and space reasons why these systems are difficult to use on our cars.

You could always install an accusump (accumulator) it will help your engine survive when the pump ingests a gulp of air.

Twin_Turbo said:

You could always install an accusump (accumulator) it will help your engine survive when the pump ingests a gulp of air.

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Agree. I've got an accumulator (aka "poor man's dry sump") that I'm going to install with a solenoid switch to allow pre-lubing before start up, and hoping that it and the new pan with integral tray and scraper helps to solve my chronic oil starvation issue in long corners, such as on the cloverleafs and/or skidpad.

Maybe it would be a good idea to discuss some oiling system mods. I know TT has a dry sump, so I guess he has a lot to add/tell.