Effing welding helmets: Any recommendations?

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The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
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I'm on my third electronic/self-darkening welding helmet, and the disappointment continues. My first one several years ago was incredibly expensive, and only lasted a few years. The second one (a Lincoln branded unit made in Switzerland) is intermittent (sometimes it darkens, sometimes it doesn't, resulting in that big flash spot stuck in your inner eye), while the current cheap HF unit works perfect electrically, but the cheapass headband (side tensioners) doesn't work worth a crap, causing the helmet to keep slipping down and requiring me to keep raising my head to be able to see the damn bead. Outside of buying another HF helmet just for the mechanicals (and having a spare lens to boot), anybody have a decent reliable helmet they can recommend?

Thanks,
Mike
 
Mike, I called my buddy the welder with over 25 years cutting sparks every day....major jobsite stuff, he is the guy who has done great work on my car, over the years, TIG, stick, but no MIG....the man is union and Navy/union trained, tested....

so I read you post to him....

his comment is that NO electronic helmet is very reliable very long in a high EMP/spark arc environment, his company GAVE him a 400 buck Miller electronic helmet, he will use it if he goes back and forth from grinding to welding, as changing gear is too much....

BUT over his years he swears all the guys pretty much agree that the old flip down helmets are much more RELIABLE, and so it takes a bit of getting used to, and so for 35 bux, buy one with JACKSON on it....lasts in his daily industrial use for 3-5 years...so the product is known pretty good....

he has a point about that mighty EMP being unkind to them chips and sensors and the wiring, right on top of melting metal/STEEL....

So his recommendation is to get good with the flip downs....

I know nothing more...I tried welding, and it sounds like you are better at it than I was 20 years ago....

:lol::cool:
 
I have a wurth brand one and it only flashes me if I block off the arc too much when doing stuff in corners and crevises, otherwise it's perfectly fine.

Did you check for dirt on the lense that may cause the light cell not to react?
 
The first electronic helmet I bought (the expensive one) is a Jackson (with an EQC brand lens insert.

I started out years ago with a flip-down helmet, but could never get the setup right. The helmet would either keep slipping down, or never flip down when I increased the tensioners, or my hand would move away from the intended bead area when I jerked my head to drop the helmet (particularly annoying when I used to do a bit of stick welding). An auto darkening helmet just made life easier, as I don't need additional distractions that negatively impact my welding proficiency (or lack thereof).

I've caused a few of the initial blinding episodes when my glove blocked the rays going to the sensor, but not the rays going straight to my eyeballs. I learned quickly after that.

I do wipe off the lenses and sensor area on a regular basis as they do get dirty from welding and from grinding dust floating in the air.

Thanks for your input, guys. I appreciate it.
 
took me a little to get used to it but I would NEVER go back to a old school helmet..... I have a auto darkening helmet from Harbor Freight. It doesn't slide down (yet) but if it starts I'll just add a few drops of glue and call it a day.... the important thing is that it darkens so your eyes are protected, I can live with a sliding helmet at that price, think I paid like $60 for it....
 
Can you just replace the headgear inside the helmet?

I sort of did that (with the guts from one of the previous dead helmets) as I don't know if HF sells replacement headgear, but there seems to be minor differences in the helmet shells and hardware that still allows the slipping problem to remain. Given the low cost of the HF helmet, I might just take Karsten's glue comment to heart and just lock it up permanently with some superglue.

Just for kicks, are you aware of any HF stores in the KC area?
 
Can you just replace the headgear inside the helmet?

I sort of did that (with the guts from one of the previous dead helmets) as I don't know if HF sells replacement headgear, but there seems to be minor differences in the helmet shells and hardware that still allows the slipping problem to remain. Given the low cost of the HF helmet, I might just take Karsten's glue comment to heart and just lock it up permanently with some superglue.

Just for kicks, are you aware of any HF stores in the KC area?

I do NOT recommend you do that when on your head.....

:quote::clap:
 
Can you just replace the headgear inside the helmet?

I sort of did that (with the guts from one of the previous dead helmets) as I don't know if HF sells replacement headgear, but there seems to be minor differences in the helmet shells and hardware that still allows the slipping problem to remain. Given the low cost of the HF helmet, I might just take Karsten's glue comment to heart and just lock it up permanently with some superglue.

Just for kicks, are you aware of any HF stores in the KC area?

There is a HF store in independence mo.
 
Plenty of good suggestions here. I like my HF auto helmet, but that doesn't help you. Before gluing or using a pop rivet to keep the band from slipping, I'd try returning it to HF.

Just this morning I was comparing notes with another buddy and we both agreed HF had a good return policy. I have returned items they replaced, no question asked. I'd try returning your helmet before trying to modify it. Clean it up a little before trying the return.

BTW...one buddy has taught welding at a technical college for over 10 years and recommends the HF helmet for the money. He suggests the 9.5 setting for auto darkening and it works for me. It would be nice if it had the flip up lens, but you can't have everything for $40.
 
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Grinding dust, that may very well be the problem. Don't grind with your helmet on, you may damage it.
 
There's a store in Independence (Thanks Kevin, I didn't know about that one) and one in Shawnee west of I-35 on 63rd Street.
 
MIG spool guns?

While we're talking welding stuff, I'm also looking into a spool gun for aluminum MIG welding. For small stuff the TIG is great, but for multiple feet long beads, it just takes too long to weld all that. I've already got a MIG welder I use for steel, but I'm wondering if there's spool gun (kits) that hook up to MIG welders that a lot of us already have.

I'm going to start looking on the web for some info, but I'd welcome any ideas or direction on this.
 
Cobramatic works but if you really want to get cracking, get a pulsemig.

A regular (too long) torch w teflon liner, 3 roller feed motors,...all still worthless for mig feeding soft alu wire.
 
took me a little to get used to it but I would NEVER go back to a old school helmet..... I have a auto darkening helmet from Harbor Freight. It doesn't slide down (yet) but if it starts I'll just add a few drops of glue and call it a day.... the important thing is that it darkens so your eyes are protected, I can live with a sliding helmet at that price, think I paid like $60 for it....

X2
 
i realize this is an older thread but i just ordered a TWECO 4 arc sensor helmet its their new design and was not expensive...$79 i figured its a pretty good comapny and before i pony three times that i would give this a whirl.....my current astrro self darkening one has been a war horse and works great, no complaints i just wanted to have two self darkening helmets.
 
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