Red
Well-known member
Like many who frequent this message board, I need to do all work by myself. Sometimes it is a challenge, but the challenge can sometimes produce positive results. Bleeding brakes is probably at the top of the challenge list. Vacuum bleeder systems have always been disappointing, so I set out to try another way. After a google search, I found there were pressure bleeders out there, but they had less than stellar evaluations. In my garage I had enough scrap material to try and make my own model pressure brake bleeder. Before finishing the tool, I had spent a total of $15 . The u-joint swivel coupler with male air plug at the top and cork gasket material for the seal and four 3/8-16 wing nuts. I already had a 1/4-18 NPT tap for the swivel coupler to be threaded into the top 3/8ths steel lid. From a scrap 1 1/2 inch PVC tube I cut a shim to go into the 1" angle material.
The 3/8ths -16 threaded rod was recycled from an old project that outlived its usefulness. The photos speak for themselves.
BTW...this was the result of putting a line loc solenoid in the brake system. My compressor regulator was set at 20 psi and when opening the brake bleeder, fluid and unwanted air came out quickly. I opened and closed the bleeder a few times, allowing any trapped air a chance to work through the line. Once clear fluid ran out, I went to the next brake. Also, I use a clear tube that slips over the nipple, but after first putting a line wrench on it. The other end of my clear hose goes into a hole I drilled into the plastic lid of an instant coffee container. Make the hole a tight fit to the hose and it will stay on and not easily slide off. You can drill a second hole for a wire hangar to hold your brake fluid catch container. I always save wire coat hangars for the garage.
You will notice my swivel coupler is located over one reservoir. It is a rare occasion I need to bleed both front and rear brakes at one time. If you prefer to have pressure to both reservoirs, simply cut a notch connecting the two reservoirs under the cork gasket material. The pressure will quickly find its way into the second reservoir and pressurize both. If you just want to bleed the rear brake, simply turn the lid so the air inlet is over the rear reservoir only. Enough already...lets get to the photos:
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Note: I welded tabs not seen under the angle material to keep it square with the flat bottom clamp surface. The bottom was just scrap 3/8 ths pieces of I-beam. After using this tool, I wish I had it years ago.
The 3/8ths -16 threaded rod was recycled from an old project that outlived its usefulness. The photos speak for themselves.
BTW...this was the result of putting a line loc solenoid in the brake system. My compressor regulator was set at 20 psi and when opening the brake bleeder, fluid and unwanted air came out quickly. I opened and closed the bleeder a few times, allowing any trapped air a chance to work through the line. Once clear fluid ran out, I went to the next brake. Also, I use a clear tube that slips over the nipple, but after first putting a line wrench on it. The other end of my clear hose goes into a hole I drilled into the plastic lid of an instant coffee container. Make the hole a tight fit to the hose and it will stay on and not easily slide off. You can drill a second hole for a wire hangar to hold your brake fluid catch container. I always save wire coat hangars for the garage.
You will notice my swivel coupler is located over one reservoir. It is a rare occasion I need to bleed both front and rear brakes at one time. If you prefer to have pressure to both reservoirs, simply cut a notch connecting the two reservoirs under the cork gasket material. The pressure will quickly find its way into the second reservoir and pressurize both. If you just want to bleed the rear brake, simply turn the lid so the air inlet is over the rear reservoir only. Enough already...lets get to the photos:
Note: I welded tabs not seen under the angle material to keep it square with the flat bottom clamp surface. The bottom was just scrap 3/8 ths pieces of I-beam. After using this tool, I wish I had it years ago.
