Rotor, buy new or used.

denpo

denpo

Carburated Nihilist
Joined
Jul 14, 2010
Messages
2,523
Location
Montreal, QC
Ok, I just realized my rear rotor are just not good. They rusted so much that one of the ventilation wall collapsed.
I heard tons of vad thing about bad made in China rotors.
Given my budget has gone from small to tiny, what would you do, buy cheap new rotor or buy used original one?
 
NAPA, some years ago sold me two NICE NEW front rotors for my '72, at 30 bux each....I about fell over, about 1/2 the price of other stores....

so I went to look and sure enough, North American type packaging and had made in USA on the carton....I looked at the cast marks....looked like a DAMN GOOD fake IF it was NOT made here....nice finished, and all I did was slap them home, and check the runout....damn nearly zero....been there since, never missed a lick....

I asked the guy WTF how so cheep, he replied 'NAPA bought the factory'.....

I think BS, but who knows???

:surrender:
 
mrvette said:
NAPA, some years ago sold me two NICE NEW front rotors for my '72, at 30 bux each....I about fell over, about 1/2 the price of other stores....

so I went to look and sure enough, North American type packaging and had made in USA on the carton....I looked at the cast marks....looked like a DAMN GOOD fake IF it was NOT made here....nice finished, and all I did was slap them home, and check the runout....damn nearly zero....been there since, never missed a lick....

I asked the guy WTF how so cheep, he replied 'NAPA bought the factory'.....

I think BS, but who knows???

:surrender:
Click to expand...

I have used the NAPA rotors on C-3's and C-5's. I find them very good quality, and affordable.;)
 
big2bird said:
mrvette said:
NAPA, some years ago sold me two NICE NEW front rotors for my '72, at 30 bux each....I about fell over, about 1/2 the price of other stores....

so I went to look and sure enough, North American type packaging and had made in USA on the carton....I looked at the cast marks....looked like a DAMN GOOD fake IF it was NOT made here....nice finished, and all I did was slap them home, and check the runout....damn nearly zero....been there since, never missed a lick....

I asked the guy WTF how so cheep, he replied 'NAPA bought the factory'.....

I think BS, but who knows???

:surrender:
Click to expand...


I have used the NAPA rotors on C-3's and C-5's. I find them very good quality, and affordable.;)
Click to expand...

Well, rotors will make me dizzy that's for sure.....:rofl::rofl:;)
 
denpo said:
.....or buy used original one?
Click to expand...

The C3 roots, as I understand it, don't provide much extra thickness. Their wear tolerances are relatively small (compared to new design rotors). In other words it doesn't take too much wear to get them into the "throw away" state. This is just what I've heard. Can't cite any numbers. Maybe others have some more specific details. Also, another point about used rotors is I don't think it takes too much sitting around, not being used, for them to become very rusty.

I bought Stainless Steel Brake Corporation's cad plated rotors for my 68 and 70. Keeps them from rusting, but $$$$$. For cars that aren't being driven much I've had good luck keeping non-plated iron rotors from rusting by spraying them with WD-40. Very effective and doesn't effect their stopping ability. (My C6 rotors get WD-40'd)
 
68/70Vette said:
denpo said:
.....or buy used original one?
Click to expand...

The C3 roots, as I understand it, don't provide much extra thickness. Their wear tolerances are relatively small (compared to new design rotors). In other words it doesn't take too much wear to get them into the "throw away" state. This is just what I've heard. Can't cite any numbers. Maybe others have some more specific details. Also, another point about used rotors is I don't think it takes too much sitting around, not being used, for them to become very rusty.

I bought Stainless Steel Brake Corporation's cad plated rotors for my 68 and 70. Keeps them from rusting, but $$$$$. For cars that aren't being driven much I've had good luck keeping non-plated iron rotors from rusting by spraying them with WD-40. Very effective and doesn't effect their stopping ability. (My C6 rotors get WD-40'd)
Click to expand...
Good to know that.
NAPA and car quest have new rotor for 60-70$ each. Given the shipping price due to the weight, it is this the only reasonable option I have.
 
denpo said:
68/70Vette said:
denpo said:
.....or buy used original one?
Click to expand...

The C3 roots, as I understand it, don't provide much extra thickness. Their wear tolerances are relatively small (compared to new design rotors). In other words it doesn't take too much wear to get them into the "throw away" state. This is just what I've heard. Can't cite any numbers. Maybe others have some more specific details. Also, another point about used rotors is I don't think it takes too much sitting around, not being used, for them to become very rusty.

I bought Stainless Steel Brake Corporation's cad plated rotors for my 68 and 70. Keeps them from rusting, but $$$$$. For cars that aren't being driven much I've had good luck keeping non-plated iron rotors from rusting by spraying them with WD-40. Very effective and doesn't effect their stopping ability. (My C6 rotors get WD-40'd)
Click to expand...
Good to know that.
NAPA and car quest have new rotor for 60-70$ each. Given the shipping price due to the weight, it is this the only reasonable option I have.
Click to expand...

You are at twice what I paid like 5 years ago, is that the exchange rate?? or do you know?? seems like a hell of a hike, I used to think of the Canadian/American bux being almost 1-1 in 'value' .....

:shocking:
 
mrvette said:
denpo said:
68/70Vette said:
denpo said:
.....or buy used original one?
Click to expand...

The C3 roots, as I understand it, don't provide much extra thickness. Their wear tolerances are relatively small (compared to new design rotors). In other words it doesn't take too much wear to get them into the "throw away" state. This is just what I've heard. Can't cite any numbers. Maybe others have some more specific details. Also, another point about used rotors is I don't think it takes too much sitting around, not being used, for them to become very rusty.

I bought Stainless Steel Brake Corporation's cad plated rotors for my 68 and 70. Keeps them from rusting, but $$$$$. For cars that aren't being driven much I've had good luck keeping non-plated iron rotors from rusting by spraying them with WD-40. Very effective and doesn't effect their stopping ability. (My C6 rotors get WD-40'd)
Click to expand...
Good to know that.
NAPA and car quest have new rotor for 60-70$ each. Given the shipping price due to the weight, it is this the only reasonable option I have.
Click to expand...

You are at twice what I paid like 5 years ago, is that the exchange rate?? or do you know?? seems like a hell of a hike, I used to think of the Canadian/American bux being almost 1-1 in 'value' .....

:shocking:
Click to expand...
Must be the shipping.
Rotors ain't light, USPS shipping it between 75$ and 100$ !!
Found a couple of C3 part seller in Canada. Their price is just what you paid for the part to get shipped from USA vendors.
 
denpo said:
mrvette said:
denpo said:
68/70Vette said:
denpo said:
.....or buy used original one?
Click to expand...

The C3 roots, as I understand it, don't provide much extra thickness. Their wear tolerances are relatively small (compared to new design rotors). In other words it doesn't take too much wear to get them into the "throw away" state. This is just what I've heard. Can't cite any numbers. Maybe others have some more specific details. Also, another point about used rotors is I don't think it takes too much sitting around, not being used, for them to become very rusty.

I bought Stainless Steel Brake Corporation's cad plated rotors for my 68 and 70. Keeps them from rusting, but $$$$$. For cars that aren't being driven much I've had good luck keeping non-plated iron rotors from rusting by spraying them with WD-40. Very effective and doesn't effect their stopping ability. (My C6 rotors get WD-40'd)
Click to expand...
Good to know that.
NAPA and car quest have new rotor for 60-70$ each. Given the shipping price due to the weight, it is this the only reasonable option I have.
Click to expand...

You are at twice what I paid like 5 years ago, is that the exchange rate?? or do you know?? seems like a hell of a hike, I used to think of the Canadian/American bux being almost 1-1 in 'value' .....

:shocking:
Click to expand...
Must be the shipping.
Rotors ain't light, USPS shipping it between 75$ and 100$ !!
Found a couple of C3 part seller in Canada. Their price is just what you paid for the part to get shipped from USA vendors.
Click to expand...

You have NO NAPA stores in Canada?? interesting....

:(:huh2:
 
mrvette said:
denpo said:
mrvette said:
denpo said:
68/70Vette said:
The C3 roots, as I understand it, don't provide much extra thickness. Their wear tolerances are relatively small (compared to new design rotors). In other words it doesn't take too much wear to get them into the "throw away" state. This is just what I've heard. Can't cite any numbers. Maybe others have some more specific details. Also, another point about used rotors is I don't think it takes too much sitting around, not being used, for them to become very rusty.

I bought Stainless Steel Brake Corporation's cad plated rotors for my 68 and 70. Keeps them from rusting, but $$$$$. For cars that aren't being driven much I've had good luck keeping non-plated iron rotors from rusting by spraying them with WD-40. Very effective and doesn't effect their stopping ability. (My C6 rotors get WD-40'd)
Click to expand...
Good to know that.
NAPA and car quest have new rotor for 60-70$ each. Given the shipping price due to the weight, it is this the only reasonable option I have.
Click to expand...

You are at twice what I paid like 5 years ago, is that the exchange rate?? or do you know?? seems like a hell of a hike, I used to think of the Canadian/American bux being almost 1-1 in 'value' .....

:shocking:
Click to expand...
Must be the shipping.
Rotors ain't light, USPS shipping it between 75$ and 100$ !!
Found a couple of C3 part seller in Canada. Their price is just what you paid for the part to get shipped from USA vendors.
Click to expand...

You have NO NAPA stores in Canada?? interesting....

:(:huh2:
Click to expand...
Yes we have, there's also CarQuest that sells part.
Those 60$-70$ rotor I was talking about earlier are from NAPA store in Montreal.
I mentioned the Canada Vette part seller as a general example, to illustrate how good was their deals....
 
Just went to my garage to measure my rotors: these are 1.236" and 1.240", minimum thickness (stamped on the rotor) is 1.215". These have quiet some material left on them....
I believe shipping to Canada is going to cost you more than new rotors from your local parts store but if you want these you can have them.


They're not new but seem to be structurally solid.... in hindsight I could have left them on my '79 but the deal on the drilled slotted rotors was just too good :D

214d436c6922db7.jpg
.

214d436c69bcac6.jpg
.

Edit: yup, USPS flat rate box intl is $49.95.. box is 12x12x6.... fits two rotors but intl weight limit is 20lbs.... they screw you any way they can... shipping for two rotors domestic would be $19.95 as domestic there's no weight limit on flat rate boxes... "if it fits it ships"....
 
Last edited:
MYBAD79 said:
Just went to my garage to measure my rotors: these are 1.236" and 1.240", minimum thickness (stamped on the rotor) is 1.215". These have quiet some material left on them....
I believe shipping to Canada is going to cost you more than new rotors from your local parts store but if you want these you can have them.


They're not new but seem to be structurally solid.... in hindsight I could have left them on my '79 but the deal on the drilled slotted rotors was just too good :D

214d436c6922db7.jpg
.

214d436c69bcac6.jpg
.

Edit: yup, USPS flat rate box intl is $49.95.. box is 12x12x6.... fits two rotors but intl weight limit is 20lbs.... they screw you any way they can... shipping for two rotors domestic would be $19.95 as domestic there's no weight limit on flat rate boxes... "if it fits it ships"....
Click to expand...

Sir, once again you show real generosity, but shipping price is still on the way.

That makes another option.
There is an ad on CF, brakeco, just PMed then to get a quote, their price is in the same ballpark than the ones you got.
 
No offense to 68/70, but I have found on my personal car that the wear limit may be essentially irrelevant. I think the factory thickness is 1.38" and minimum serviceable run out is 1.25" or something like that. It may be a greater difference but not much. Anyway, I replaced my fronts some time back well after the car had reached the 20 year/150,000 mile mark just because I felt it was good practice. Despite having had years of autocross and a number of track day laps put on them, they were still about .006" above the minimum run out. That was using aggressive pads and even slicks at times. So I think the important thing is to find the best quality you can and they will last you 3 days short of forever. If I'm reading your initial post correctly, your run out is still within margin, you just have a rust issue with the hat that is creating a problem.
Now having said all that, the important thing to remember with the rear rotors is they were trued to the hub which means that replacing them isn't as simple as slapping new ones on. Your two options is (recommended) pop the wheel studs out of the hubs and have the hubs trued, then you can bolt on different rotors to your heart's content. Or (the factory original way) bolt the rotors to the hubs and then have them trued on the car. This is less preferred in my book because you go right back to having a rotor that is side specific and the next time you ever need to replace a rotor again you have to go through all the rigamarole all over again.
My $.02.
 
clutchdust said:
Now having said all that, the important thing to remember with the rear rotors is they were trued to the hub which means that replacing them isn't as simple as slapping new ones on. Your two options is (recommended) pop the wheel studs out of the hubs and have the hubs trued, then you can bolt on different rotors to your heart's content. Or (the factory original way) bolt the rotors to the hubs and then have them trued on the car. This is less preferred in my book because you go right back to having a rotor that is side specific and the next time you ever need to replace a rotor again you have to go through all the rigamarole all over again.
My $.02.
Click to expand...
Huh, truing, ok yet another surprise.
I've check on the web, looks like it has to do with the wobbling of the disk.
Anyone has detail on what a rotor truing is about?
Popping the stub, that means removing the spindle, wish implies doing the spindle assembly again. *sigh*
Looks like I found someone to bring rotor from USA. I think I'll go with the summit's basic 30$ rotor.
 
denpo said:
clutchdust said:
Now having said all that, the important thing to remember with the rear rotors is they were trued to the hub which means that replacing them isn't as simple as slapping new ones on. Your two options is (recommended) pop the wheel studs out of the hubs and have the hubs trued, then you can bolt on different rotors to your heart's content. Or (the factory original way) bolt the rotors to the hubs and then have them trued on the car. This is less preferred in my book because you go right back to having a rotor that is side specific and the next time you ever need to replace a rotor again you have to go through all the rigamarole all over again.
My $.02.
Click to expand...
Huh, truing, ok yet another surprise.
I've check on the web, looks like it has to do with the wobbling of the disk.
Anyone has detail on what a rotor truing is about?
Popping the stub, that means removing the spindle, wish implies doing the spindle assembly again. *sigh*
Looks like I found someone to bring rotor from USA. I think I'll go with the summit's basic 30$ rotor.
Click to expand...

Eh, just do it the easy way, index the thing, try it one way on the spindle, see what the runout is.....me not having a mag base dial indicator, I just felt the pads flip back and forth with the pistons pushed back all the way, easy to do if you have O ring calipers, no piston springs....so to feel the runout, if you can feel it, re index the rotor on the spindle, turn it almost 180* ....try it again, have to remove the caliper so it's a PIA.....find the index giving min runout....if still not good enough you maybe take some beer can aluminum and maybe aluminum foil thickness around a stud or two to act as a shim, that will take out the runout .....did it on mine that way several years ago, just using foil, but if you have say two foil layers over one stud, make sure to put one foil layer on the two adjacent studs, make it true as possible so when you put all the nutz on it will run true.....

then I sprayed paint on one stud to mark the SOB for next time.....

:shocking::gurney:
 
denpo said:
Huh, truing, ok yet another surprise.
I've check on the web, looks like it has to do with the wobbling of the disk.
Anyone has detail on what a rotor truing is about?
Popping the stub, that means removing the spindle, wish implies doing the spindle assembly again. *sigh*
Looks like I found someone to bring rotor from USA. I think I'll go with the summit's basic 30$ rotor.
Click to expand...


$30 a rotor is about what they cost at AutoZone, good price. Good for you if you're close to the border....:smash:

The stock wheel studs can be removed without disassembling the spindle assembly. Longer studs can be tricky.... might have to drill a hole in the dust shield to allow stud removal.

First, clean the mating as good as you can. Install the new rotor and bolt it to the spindle (see my rotor thread, there are photos of my rotors and Mike's rotors that we drilled for bolts) then setup a dial indicator to measure runout while you turn the rotor by hand.

Like Gene described above: I was able to find a clock position (rotate the rotor one wheel stud over) that had minimum runout. I got it under .004" at the outermost location without using shims.

Here are the photos I mentioned:


214990e4d522f25.jpg
.
214a92a2ae5d162.jpg
 
Good to know that some of you are able to index them and get them within tolerances. I attempted that with mine and the best I was able to get was about .012" on one side, and I think something like .006" or .007" on the other, so I ended up just leaving the originals on for now. They weren't bad or anything, I just felt that with more than 25 years and a lot of hard miles they didn't owe me anything at that point. But then I figured I'll just true the rotors when I do my "big brake" package later. (whenever the hell that turns out to be)
 
I went with the premium line Napa rotors for the rear of my 74 Vette and was very happy with the quality. The only downside was they weren't drilled for the rivets and I had to drill them so I could bolt them on.
 
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