denpo
Carburated Nihilist
I'm posting on behalf of Carb Doc instruction on a Mod to add reverse lockup to a 5 speed Richmond gearbox.
I'm just a messenger, Carb Doc is the guy to ask for further details.
As you are probably well aware there is a real possibility of hitting Reverse when back shifting A Richmond 5 Speed equipped with a HURST Shifter, there is even a warning that this may occur in their instillation instructions, I have seen the end result of this mishap in several, so when I decided to install one in my 70 Vette, I decided to make a positive Lock Out to make it impossible for this to happen to me.
From the pictures you can see that there is a spring loaded arm on the drivers side of the shifter housing, this arm hooks the 5/reverse shifter arm , is in full contact when the shifter is in the neutral set position, allows free movement into 5th but is absolutely locked in neutral if you try to put in reverse. Until you release the arm by pulling up on the loop, it is absolutely impossible to put this thing in reverse unless you lift the locking bar. Since the bar is spring loaded, once you lift it and engage reverse you let go of the loop and it will instantly re-lock once you move the shifter out of reverse through neutral , has absolutely no effect on any of the forward gears. Is easily operated, it looks like you might need 2 hands but you simply hook the loop with a finger as you pull the shifter into reverse, this unlocks the arm , let go and it instantly resets when you shift out of reverse.
I have 50,000+ miles on mine with ZERO problems, fairly simple to construct and easy to operate, will completely eliminate the catastrophic disaster of finding reverse when you don't want it.
Maretials:
An old Chevy Alternator adjuster arm you don't mind cutting up. This makes the hook arm
Sb or BB chevy oil pump pressure relief spring
Small piece of 1/4" aluminum Angle
Small piece of 1/4" aluminum flat stock
a welding rod, (tig) uncoated
A longer grade 8 bolt for the rear shifter stop
Some 1/8" aircraft cable
A 3/8" allen head machine bolt for arm pivot, with nylock
A spacer for this bolt to have the Arm parallel to the shifter body, this is not easily seen in the pictures, I
think I used s 3/8 Nut that would be for a stove bolt, square not hex, anyway you will have to fit it and it is
threaded for the bolt, as is the aluminum angle it is mounted in , Tight and locktite, it is only a pivot axle
and you don't want it to move.
There is also a small machine bolt at the top of the Locking Arm , needs to be good quality allen bolt, as it is the pivot that the spring guide rod and Aircraft Cable loop work off, tight and locktite here too.
Needless to say this has to be built out on the bench, not with the transmission in the car, Neutral has to be set with a TIGHT FITTING ALIGNMENT TOOL, when you are setting this up as well as setting up your shifting arms, lube well and install the transmission withe the shifter, and lock mechanism in place and preset, attach the shifter handle once the transmission is in the car, to do this in my 70 I had to remove the bottom boot and the reinforcing ring from the tunnel, and open the opening a bit, slips right in , sorry I have no pictures of it in place, to show how muck clearance you need to provide, it is not that much more than the original opening.
I'm just a messenger, Carb Doc is the guy to ask for further details.
As you are probably well aware there is a real possibility of hitting Reverse when back shifting A Richmond 5 Speed equipped with a HURST Shifter, there is even a warning that this may occur in their instillation instructions, I have seen the end result of this mishap in several, so when I decided to install one in my 70 Vette, I decided to make a positive Lock Out to make it impossible for this to happen to me.
From the pictures you can see that there is a spring loaded arm on the drivers side of the shifter housing, this arm hooks the 5/reverse shifter arm , is in full contact when the shifter is in the neutral set position, allows free movement into 5th but is absolutely locked in neutral if you try to put in reverse. Until you release the arm by pulling up on the loop, it is absolutely impossible to put this thing in reverse unless you lift the locking bar. Since the bar is spring loaded, once you lift it and engage reverse you let go of the loop and it will instantly re-lock once you move the shifter out of reverse through neutral , has absolutely no effect on any of the forward gears. Is easily operated, it looks like you might need 2 hands but you simply hook the loop with a finger as you pull the shifter into reverse, this unlocks the arm , let go and it instantly resets when you shift out of reverse.
I have 50,000+ miles on mine with ZERO problems, fairly simple to construct and easy to operate, will completely eliminate the catastrophic disaster of finding reverse when you don't want it.
Maretials:
An old Chevy Alternator adjuster arm you don't mind cutting up. This makes the hook arm
Sb or BB chevy oil pump pressure relief spring
Small piece of 1/4" aluminum Angle
Small piece of 1/4" aluminum flat stock
a welding rod, (tig) uncoated
A longer grade 8 bolt for the rear shifter stop
Some 1/8" aircraft cable
A 3/8" allen head machine bolt for arm pivot, with nylock
A spacer for this bolt to have the Arm parallel to the shifter body, this is not easily seen in the pictures, I
think I used s 3/8 Nut that would be for a stove bolt, square not hex, anyway you will have to fit it and it is
threaded for the bolt, as is the aluminum angle it is mounted in , Tight and locktite, it is only a pivot axle
and you don't want it to move.
There is also a small machine bolt at the top of the Locking Arm , needs to be good quality allen bolt, as it is the pivot that the spring guide rod and Aircraft Cable loop work off, tight and locktite here too.
Needless to say this has to be built out on the bench, not with the transmission in the car, Neutral has to be set with a TIGHT FITTING ALIGNMENT TOOL, when you are setting this up as well as setting up your shifting arms, lube well and install the transmission withe the shifter, and lock mechanism in place and preset, attach the shifter handle once the transmission is in the car, to do this in my 70 I had to remove the bottom boot and the reinforcing ring from the tunnel, and open the opening a bit, slips right in , sorry I have no pictures of it in place, to show how muck clearance you need to provide, it is not that much more than the original opening.
:shocking::clap: