Brake ducts

Yellow73SB

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Mar 24, 2008
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I think this is the way they have to be run

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Of course it needs the a-arm flap hole needs to be cut out a bit

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And then I'll just zip tie the hose onto the spindle. Maybe put a small section of aluminum tube on the end so it doesn't get torn up so fast

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This way seems a bit neater but it blocks too much of the radiator

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track time, uh hu,,, ducts for xcross ? where did you buy your hose?? you can get it used at Muscle Car Motosports, Cup car take off.
 
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track time, uh hu,,, ducts for xcross ? where did you buy your hose?? you can get it used at Muscle Car Motosports, Cup car take off.

On ebay

I have the high temp silicone stuff also brand new

Got something like 7' for 25 bucks

I have 10' of the cheaper neoprene stuff


The ducts will be for the track
 
Brake ducting for 1973.

Dear Sir, The addition to brake ducting to a stock or even semi stock 1973 with the poly front bumper is simply tough job!! If you loose the front bumper and install a glass nose, you will see you will have gobs of room to do it properly!! The stock front bumper assembly in this is your worst enemy!! If you really plan to do any serious racing at all loose this assembly and get back with me and i will show you how it should be done. In fact you will be surprised how easy it really is!! thanks frank
 
Dear Sir<,I still see that you still have the left and possibly the right bumber braces in place ... they both should be removed. The area in which they penetrate the radiator/fender well is the key!! "roundout" this area for a 2 in. silicone hose and use the parking lite opening in the grill for the entrance and then "trail the hose along thr outside of the main frame rail to the brake cailiper you can use 18 in wire ties to fasten the hose to fame and for the parking lite opening use small ties to fasten top, bottom, and sides fasten mouth of hose, flush to parking brake opening!!
 
A 2" hose? That's pretty tiny, you won't get a lot of cooling. i'd want the hose to be at least 3" and if possible more. Maybe use several smaller id hoses if there's no room for one big one.
 
Brake ducting

Dear Sir, Yes it would be nice to use a 3 in duct but I do have to tell that while the wheels move back and forth they will have contact with a 3 in!! Now I have used (2) 2in ducting... one on top the other, upper to keep the upper part of cailper cool and the lower to keep the bottom half cool!!! thanks
 
Dear Sir, Yes it would be nice to use a 3 in duct but I do have to tell that while the wheels move back and forth they will have contact with a 3 in!! Now I have used (2) 2in ducting... one on top the other, upper to keep the upper part of cailper cool and the lower to keep the bottom half cool!!! thanks


your not ducting air to the center of the rotor?
 
Here's how I routed my brake cooling ducts. They're only 2" so they wouldn't be good for all out racing, but for street/HPDE duty they seam to work OK. I figure they're better than nothing, and they don't distract from the looks of the car. I couldn't figure out how to route 3" ducts on a street car with all the other stuff (wheel wells, front bumper, stock type radiator, ....). I used the stock dust shields with some exhaust pipe welded to it as mounting plates for the hose - ducts the air to the center of the stock size rotors nicely.

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Those look like the pole position upper control arms that Savitske is selling. Are yours std. bolt pattern? (bolt-in?)???
 
Those look like the pole position upper control arms that Savitske is selling. Are yours std. bolt pattern? (bolt-in?)???

Yeap, they are direct bolt in. Savitske modifies the cross shaft by slotting the mounting holes so they fit C3's without modification. I'm very pleased with them so far. I was able to set the camber & caster without using any shims.
 
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