P/S Pump or P/S control valve?

My '72 likes to leak P/S fluid. Lots of it. I was thinking it was the P/S pump, so I picked one up and a puller to change it out. I get under the car and I notice that the pump is bone dry and the control valve is soaked with fluid. I'm guessing it's the control valve. :suicide:

Is it more common for the control valve to go out compared to the pump? What do you folks think?

some nearly 50 years of driving GM cars, I have NEVER had a P/S pump leak...

but that control valve on my vette was not missed one bit going to rack steering....POS no matter who/what...:hissyfit:

mrvette said:

some nearly 50 years of driving GM cars, I have NEVER had a P/S pump leak...

but that control valve on my vette was not missed one bit going to rack steering....POS no matter who/what...:hissyfit:

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That's pretty much what I figured after looking at it gene. Guess I'm going to be dropping some coin. :banghead:


Edit: Local auto parts has a rebuild kit available for $10. Might as well, got nothing to lose. :lol:

When you have the valve apart, closely inspect the housing bore where the valve slides. If the bore is corroded or scored, you will most likely find that the new seals will quickly fail if they have to slide on a rough bore.

Jim

JIML82 said:

When you have the valve apart, closely inspect the housing bore where the valve slides. If the bore is corroded or scored, you will most likely find that the new seals will quickly fail if they have to slide on a rough bore.

Jim

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Hey Jim, not to hijack his thread here, but I stuck power steering on the motor home/Clamper project...total cost....30 bux....now Linda can drive it, that old manual ratio was like 6 turns lock to lock....the power box is less then 4 turns....

drives like a vette now, NOT!!!

:thumbs::smash::smash::harhar:

JIML82 said:

When you have the valve apart, closely inspect the housing bore where the valve slides. If the bore is corroded or scored, you will most likely find that the new seals will quickly fail if they have to slide on a rough bore.

Jim

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That's assuming I can get the damn thing out of the car. :suicide:

I spent 3 hours last night, and couldn't get the bolt that connects to the pitman arm? I think, out. Hell of a time getting a puller in there. I bolted it all back together and I'm going to see if they've got a solution at the parts store I can rent.

Entropy said:

JIML82 said:

When you have the valve apart, closely inspect the housing bore where the valve slides. If the bore is corroded or scored, you will most likely find that the new seals will quickly fail if they have to slide on a rough bore.

Jim

Click to expand...

That's assuming I can get the damn thing out of the car. :suicide:

I spent 3 hours last night, and couldn't get the bolt that connects to the pitman arm? I think, out. Hell of a time getting a puller in there. I bolted it all back together and I'm going to see if they've got a solution at the parts store I can rent.

Click to expand...

It's called a pickle fork my man, a large tapered tines, two prong fork of tempered steel, rings like a bell, the tines are about 5/8 or so apart....

hammer that sob in there is about all you can do...PIA and maybe a bit hard on the box bearings....but it's about the only show in town....

:smash::smash::thumbs:

mrvette said:

It's called a pickle fork my man, a large tapered tines, two prong fork of tempered steel, rings like a bell, the tines are about 5/8 or so apart....

hammer that sob in there is about all you can do...PIA and maybe a bit hard on the box bearings....but it's about the only show in town....

:smash::smash::thumbs:

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Well, at this point, I had to put it back together to get it out of the garage. My wife's car needed work. Of course I wasn't expecting it to cook the right front bearing. This weekend has sucked.

Plan is to keep an eye on power steering fluid level (I noticed a loose fitting when I was pulling stuff apart). If it starts losing fluid again, I'll take another swing at it.