Digital Torque Adapter

Interesting. I bet you could lock the output in a vise and set your wrench to xx and see if it pops at the setting. But you'd have to make the calculation for the adapter- they don't say it's a torque multiplier so it should be pretty well on.
 
I'll now have my own PMEL!

Gotta get one of these! Too cool. Thanks for the lead.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EeQeH5YAcA[/ame]

Cheers - Jim
 
Interesting. I bet you could lock the output in a vise and set your wrench to xx and see if it pops at the setting. But you'd have to make the calculation for the adapter- they don't say it's a torque multiplier so it should be pretty well on.

How do you know the torque adapter is correct?:idea:
 
I bought one and tested one of my wrenches against it. The 1st try showed the wrench within 1.5 lbs of the adapter, I still have to check my other wrenches. The quality check paper that came with it said it was within 1.25 lbs at 120 lbs/ft
 
I have had the same problem with testing the accuracy of my torque wrenches. I went to a building supply store and bought a 1/2 coupling nut. They are about the length of four nuts welded together. Then, I went to my local Advanced Auto and borrowed one of their 1/2 drive, beam type torque wrenches. They told me it wasn't one of the cheap models they stock to sell and it was an accurate tool. With the beam torque wrench and 1/2 coupling nut, I simply worked their beam wrench against my 1/2 drive micrometer, click type wrench. I was surprised to see even the $10 click wrench I bought from Harbor Freight was right on the money, by comparison to the beam wrench I borrowed. I trust the result I got comparing the quality beam wrench against my micrometer click type wrenches. The coupling nut cost $1.25 and the beam wrench free to borrow. If I wanted, I could continue to borrow wrenches from other stores and compare results. My picture is not available, so visualize a click wrench in my left hand and a beam wrench in my right and joined with a coupling nut. My test went from 20-100 ft/lbs and gave me the confidence I needed in my TW.
 
I have had the same problem with testing the accuracy of my torque wrenches. I went to a building supply store and bought a 1/2 coupling nut. They are about the length of four nuts welded together. Then, I went to my local Advanced Auto and borrowed one of their 1/2 drive, beam type torque wrenches. They told me it wasn't one of the cheap models they stock to sell and it was an accurate tool. With the beam torque wrench and 1/2 coupling nut, I simply worked their beam wrench against my 1/2 drive micrometer, click type wrench. I was surprised to see even the $10 click wrench I bought from Harbor Freight was right on the money, by comparison to the beam wrench I borrowed. I trust the result I got comparing the quality beam wrench against my micrometer click type wrenches. The coupling nut cost $1.25 and the beam wrench free to borrow. If I wanted, I could continue to borrow wrenches from other stores and compare results. My picture is not available, so visualize a click wrench in my left hand and a beam wrench in my right and joined with a coupling nut. My test went from 20-100 ft/lbs and gave me the confidence I needed in my TW.

I hate admitting this, but some months ago, I set my Sears 1/2 clicker and breaker bar, and 1/2" socket set on the step bumper of the work van, got inside with some distraction, drove to the junkyard, got out, and realized my fuckup....the socket set was still there, but the clicker and bar were a road gift to some redneck, I figger.....

my socket set is a cheepy but goody set I have had for some 25+ years now, anyway...I replaced with a HFreight clicker that LOOKS decently made and a longer breaker bar....

I need check that clicker some day...:hissyfit::hissyfit::censored:
 
Gene...I hate when that happens! Sears tools are not cheap and I used to buy them exclusively. They had a good tool store where I used to live. In light of difficulities and cost of having their electric tools repaired, I have been using HF products.
 
Funny you should ask!

so did anyone try one of these yet?

While I haven't tried MINE yet -- it just came today, it has an interesting insert-
A Certificate of Inspection!

It was tested at 3 seperate ratings:29.5, 88.6, and 147.6 lb-ft.

The differences are:
29.5 tested at 29.7 for less than 1% error,
88.6 tested at 88.9 less than 1/2%, and
147.6 tested at 148.00 near 1/4% error.

It is advertised as being within 2% - so it meets spec. Now I gotta admit - I didn't test it -- but seems like a reasonable tool and a good addition to my tool box.

I'll give it a few cranks this weekend - against my other torque wrench - won't have any good test comparisons - but will keep me busy and entertained!:yahoo:

Cheers - Jim
 
Jim when you do get to test it post the results. I'm be interested to see how it works in the 0-30 in/lb range for boxes and diff's or just to calibrate my clickers.
 
Initial user observations

GTR1999
I did mess about in the garage this past weekend. And, specifically looked at the under 30# range.
My observations:
1. Its a neat unit and does what they say. (Instructions are a bit small - but readable).
2. It seems to be most useful as a calibration tool. And I think thats what I'll use it for.

Here's my set up:
I have a torque wrench - but its not digital - so I can use this as a means to "dial in" the torque I want to get to. (My torque Wrench is a "rotate the handle"and hope you get the lines where they should be -- ok-- its a cheapie.):amused:

Setting my torque werench to 30 #s I got very close with the Powerbuilt Tool. Set 30 read 29.8. And I'll wager it was my setting the torque wrench handle--not the digital Powerbuilt unit.

I then tried using the Powerbuilt unit as a torque wrench on a socket wrench as a digital torque wernch setup.
Yep - that works -- but remember - that the Powerbuilt turns with the socket - so you gotta consider that - or realign as the digital dial moves to a position you can't read.

Sorry, my hands were full and didn't get any pictures. Maybe next weekend -- we'll see.:photo:

Cheers - Jim
 
GTR1999
I did mess about in the garage this past weekend. And, specifically looked at the under 30# range.
My observations:
1. Its a neat unit and does what they say. (Instructions are a bit small - but readable).
2. It seems to be most useful as a calibration tool. And I think thats what I'll use it for.

Here's my set up:
I have a torque wrench - but its not digital - so I can use this as a means to "dial in" the torque I want to get to. (My torque Wrench is a "rotate the handle"and hope you get the lines where they should be -- ok-- its a cheapie.):amused:

Setting my torque werench to 30 #s I got very close with the Powerbuilt Tool. Set 30 read 29.8. And I'll wager it was my setting the torque wrench handle--not the digital Powerbuilt unit.

I then tried using the Powerbuilt unit as a torque wrench on a socket wrench as a digital torque wernch setup.
Yep - that works -- but remember - that the Powerbuilt turns with the socket - so you gotta consider that - or realign as the digital dial moves to a position you can't read.

Sorry, my hands were full and didn't get any pictures. Maybe next weekend -- we'll see.:photo:

Cheers - Jim

Interesting ,thanks for the follow up.
Gary
 
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