The Pier-Paolo Lucaroni suspension.

Well I've made progress with the the Pier-Paolo Lucaroni suspension build.
Pieces are cut for 2 sets and I have some leftovers. I'm starting to polish the parts before I have them welded. Understanding some discolor will happen when welded. I found Stainless will Rust If not pre-paired correctly. The trick is sand and polish to close up the pore's of the steel. I bought my stainless plate from a recycle dealer (with scratches & surface rust) to save $$$ .............. most of the tailing's ends up in the scrap bin anyway. I'm looking to see if anyone has measurement for the 4 stand off spacer's on the differential. Also the length of the heim joint rods? Pier said the 4 front links are the same as the C-4's long rods witch I measure at 13 inches eye to eye. Any help is appreciated :crutches:

Excellent! I love custom projects. Keep the updates coming.

Wow nice!!! can't wait to see it finished. As for stainless rusting, it will if you expose it to rusting mild steel or contaminate it with mild steel )or contaminate it while cutting), welds are best wire wheeled with a stainless wheel or acid etched (but you get frankenstein nails from that unless you have one of those electric etching gizmos)

Strut rod bracket

Stingxray said:

Well I've made progress with the the Pier-Paolo Lucaroni suspension build.
Pieces are cut for 2 sets and I have some leftovers. I'm starting to polish the parts before I have them welded. Understanding some discolor will happen when welded. I found Stainless will Rust If not pre-paired correctly. The trick is sand and polish to close up the pore's of the steel. I bought my stainless plate from a recycle dealer (with scratches & surface rust) to save $$$ .............. most of the tailing's ends up in the scrap bin anyway. I'm looking to see if anyone has measurement for the 4 stand off spacer's on the differential. Also the length of the heim joint rods? Pier said the 4 front links are the same as the C-4's long rods witch I measure at 13 inches eye to eye. Any help is appreciated :crutches:

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Stingxray,
Nice strut rod bracket, did you purchase this on E-Bay, looks just like the one I sold? Titanium bolts and aircraft grade stainless steel.

Small corvette world

voodoovette :

It is a Small Corvette mod-er's world. I guess you didn't remember my tag name same as here. Nice work, I might add ..Any more parts for sale? :drink:

Slip axle IRS

Stingxray said:

voodoovette :

It is a Small Corvette mod-er's world. I guess you didn't remember my tag name same as here. Nice work, I might add ..Any more parts for sale? :drink:

Click to expand...

Stingxray,

Being you are using U-joint slip shafts, the only items I have that may interest you is a pair of custom trailing arms. They have an adjustable heim rod end at the front, are off set for wider tires and have an upper link bracket welded on at the top of the trailing arm. If you are interested, I can send pics for you can see if this is something you could use for your project.

Hoooo I want to see lots of play by play pics of that build.

Stingxray,

You must be using 400 series stainless. A way to tell is put a magnet up to it.

Pretty work by the way!

Stainless

Ralphy said:

Stingxray,

You must be using 400 series stainless. A way to tell is put a magnet up to it.

Pretty work by the way!

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Ralphy :

The excess plate I have says 304L / 304 . Wasn't sure what the L stood for..till I looked it up. Explanation on the bottom... Low Carbon

My most powerful magnet (salvaged Hard Drive) barely sticks.




When you have welding included in the manufacturing process, there is a difference between 304 and 304L. The difference is what happens to the HAZ (heat affected zone), there is a phenomena termed "chrome carbide precipitation", this happens at a temperature from approximately 850 degrees F to 1200 degrees F. The base metal will reach this temperature during welding. This is a "time at temperature" phenomena, so, the thicker the material, the higher the carbon level, the higher the temperature in the range, and the longer in the range, the more susceptable your material is to CCP. The chrome will combine with carbon and precipitate as chromium carbide, this leaves and "iron rich" area adjacent to the welds that corrodes more easily than fully annealed austenitic stainless steel. It is possible to heat treat and redistribute the carbon molecules with 304ss, but not practical with a large weldment. 304L has a low carbon content, this very much minimizes, or eliminates CCP, and is much more practical for large weldments. If you don't want your vehicle to "rust" in the heat affecte! d zone, specify the 304L and request certified mill test reports. I would also recommend you have the welds pickeled if they don't perform a blending operation on them. There are many common substances that can attack the HAZ on 304, chlorinated city water is one, road chlorides is another common one.

I have never seen 304 with rust. However I base this on shop experience, machining. Not being exposed to the enviroment.

I think the L is for Low. as in low carbon.

Type 304L is an extra low-carbon variation
of Type 304 with a 0.03% maximum
carbon content that eliminates carbide
precipitation due to welding. As a result,
this alloy can be used in the "as-welded"
condition, even in severe corrosive conditions.
It often eliminates the necessity
of annealing weldments except for
applications specifying stress relief. It
has slightly lower mechanical properties
than Type 304.

http://www.aksteel.com/pdf/markets_products/stainless/austenitic/304_304L_Data_Sheet.pdf

Some of the 400,s are more corrosive.
Guess I also was wondering which SS you used.

It will rust if you contaminate it with plain carbon steel, like cutting chips/dust and let it sit out in humid conditions. Stainless steel is a poor name, it's not rust free, it's corrosion resistant...up to a certain level depending on type.

Most stainless sheet material that you buy has been passivated. The iron on the surface has been removed with acid. Unprocessed coil stock that is used in manufacturing is probably not passivated because the finished part will be. I'm sure some coil stock ends up in salvage.