Chop saw wheel material?

69427

69427

The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
Joined
Mar 30, 2008
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Clinging to my guns and religion in KCMO.
Just curious what I'm breathing while I'm cutting tubing and stuff with my chop saw. I know it's a bit of steel "dust" mixed in there, but what is the disc made of? (Hopefully not asbestos fibers or anything like that.)
 
Dunno, I run stuff like that with the breeze to my back, outside....

or a fan behind me....or better yet, feeding the junk into a fan sucking it away from me.....

:beer:
 
resins and fibers and it varies by type and brand, certainly not asbestos.

If you want a long lasting blade, invest in a diamond coated steel disc. They last a lot longer and make a cleaner cut but cooling/lubing liquid is recommended for longevity of the blade.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
resins and fibers and it varies by type and brand, certainly not asbestos.

If you want a long lasting blade, invest in a diamond coated steel disc. They last a lot longer and make a cleaner cut but cooling/lubing liquid is recommended for longevity of the blade.
Click to expand...

?? only thing I have ever well wacked with a diamond blade of any type is stone/ceramic like tiles....never used a diamond on steel or any metal for that matter....never seen anyone else do it either....the guys at the shops use fiber/stone blades for metal...

I tried to use either one on wood, once....instant flames....

:crutches:
 
Twin_Turbo said:
If you want a long lasting blade, invest in a diamond coated steel disc. They last a lot longer and make a cleaner cut but cooling/lubing liquid is recommended for longevity of the blade.
Click to expand...

That sounds like a PITA. Chop saw blades are cheap.
 
They are? They certainly are not here, the're easily 50 pop a blade and they make ugly cuts.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
resins and fibers and it varies by type and brand, certainly not asbestos.

If you want a long lasting blade, invest in a diamond coated steel disc. They last a lot longer and make a cleaner cut but cooling/lubing liquid is recommended for longevity of the blade.
Click to expand...

I can't see the diamond coated disc lasting long in a chop saw. I know cold saw turn much slower than a chop saw

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/it...er Tools-_-Power Saws and Accessories-_-2ELE4

Twin_Turbo said:
They are? They certainly are not here, the're easily 50 pop a blade and they make ugly cuts.
Click to expand...

They are pretty cheap here, I prefer a sawzall over a chop saw though.

It's impossible to get a square cut with a chop saw.

http://www.toolbarn.com/blades/saw/chopsaw.html
 
Yellow73SB said:
Twin_Turbo said:
resins and fibers and it varies by type and brand, certainly not asbestos.

If you want a long lasting blade, invest in a diamond coated steel disc. They last a lot longer and make a cleaner cut but cooling/lubing liquid is recommended for longevity of the blade.
Click to expand...

I can't see the diamond coated disc lasting long in a chop saw. I know cold saw turn much slower than a chop saw

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/it...er Tools-_-Power Saws and Accessories-_-2ELE4

Twin_Turbo said:
They are? They certainly are not here, the're easily 50 pop a blade and they make ugly cuts.
Click to expand...

They are pretty cheap here, I prefer a sawzall over a chop saw though.

It's impossible to get a square cut with a chop saw.
http://www.toolbarn.com/blades/saw/chopsaw.html
Click to expand...

????...???
 
69427 said:
Yellow73SB said:
Twin_Turbo said:
resins and fibers and it varies by type and brand, certainly not asbestos.

If you want a long lasting blade, invest in a diamond coated steel disc. They last a lot longer and make a cleaner cut but cooling/lubing liquid is recommended for longevity of the blade.
Click to expand...

I can't see the diamond coated disc lasting long in a chop saw. I know cold saw turn much slower than a chop saw

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/it...er Tools-_-Power Saws and Accessories-_-2ELE4

Twin_Turbo said:
They are? They certainly are not here, the're easily 50 pop a blade and they make ugly cuts.
Click to expand...

They are pretty cheap here, I prefer a sawzall over a chop saw though.

It's impossible to get a square cut with a chop saw.
http://www.toolbarn.com/blades/saw/chopsaw.html
Click to expand...

????...???
Click to expand...

Yeh, tiping too fast, he got it ack basswards....

:amazed::devil:
 
If there is a name on the blade do a search for the MSDS it will tell you how bad they are. If you bought from a Home Depot type place they would be able to get the MSDS as well.
 
mrvette said:
69427 said:
Yellow73SB said:
Twin_Turbo said:
resins and fibers and it varies by type and brand, certainly not asbestos.

If you want a long lasting blade, invest in a diamond coated steel disc. They last a lot longer and make a cleaner cut but cooling/lubing liquid is recommended for longevity of the blade.
Click to expand...

I can't see the diamond coated disc lasting long in a chop saw. I know cold saw turn much slower than a chop saw

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/it...er Tools-_-Power Saws and Accessories-_-2ELE4

Twin_Turbo said:
They are? They certainly are not here, the're easily 50 pop a blade and they make ugly cuts.
Click to expand...

They are pretty cheap here, I prefer a sawzall over a chop saw though.

It's impossible to get a square cut with a chop saw.
http://www.toolbarn.com/blades/saw/chopsaw.html
Click to expand...

????...???
Click to expand...

Yeh, tiping too fast, he got it ack basswards....

:amazed::devil:
Click to expand...

Actually, he might have meant to say that. I was welding for about 6 months a while back at my uncle's shop. If you put too much pressure on the chop saw when it is cutting, often it bends to one side and you don't get a square cut. You've gotta let the blade do the cutting (which often is not fast enough for the user). If you know how to mark your steel square, you can cut pretty damn square with a sawzall...I know I can, it just takes skill.

The best type of saw I have ever used is a carbide-tipped chop saw. Its the cats ass. There is no dust to breath, the cuts are clean every time, and it cuts way faster than the abrasive blades. The blades last WAY longer than abrasive ones, but the catch is that they are very expensive. Next time I need a chop saw, I am spending my cash on one of those...
 
stinger12 said:
mrvette said:
69427 said:
Yellow73SB said:
Twin_Turbo said:
resins and fibers and it varies by type and brand, certainly not asbestos.

If you want a long lasting blade, invest in a diamond coated steel disc. They last a lot longer and make a cleaner cut but cooling/lubing liquid is recommended for longevity of the blade.
Click to expand...

I can't see the diamond coated disc lasting long in a chop saw. I know cold saw turn much slower than a chop saw

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/it...er Tools-_-Power Saws and Accessories-_-2ELE4

Twin_Turbo said:
They are? They certainly are not here, the're easily 50 pop a blade and they make ugly cuts.
Click to expand...

They are pretty cheap here, I prefer a sawzall over a chop saw though.

It's impossible to get a square cut with a chop saw.
http://www.toolbarn.com/blades/saw/chopsaw.html
Click to expand...

????...???
Click to expand...

Yeh, tiping too fast, he got it ack basswards....

:amazed::devil:
Click to expand...

Actually, he might have meant to say that. I was welding for about 6 months a while back at my uncle's shop. If you put too much pressure on the chop saw when it is cutting, often it bends to one side and you don't get a square cut. You've gotta let the blade do the cutting (which often is not fast enough for the user). If you know how to mark your steel square, you can cut pretty damn square with a sawzall...I know I can, it just takes skill.

The best type of saw I have ever used is a carbide-tipped chop saw. Its the cats ass. There is no dust to breath, the cuts are clean every time, and it cuts way faster than the abrasive blades. The blades last WAY longer than abrasive ones, but the catch is that they are very expensive. Next time I need a chop saw, I am spending my cash on one of those...
Click to expand...

You will use a carbide blade ONCE on a chop saw for cutting steel....

after your hospital stay you can tell the tale....

any carbide blade I ever used is good enough for ALUMINUM only....and at that you go slow and careful.....

obviously I can chop a 2x4 in about 3 seconds with a 10" carbide on a chop saw....

:(:crutches:
 
mrvette said:
stinger12 said:
mrvette said:
69427 said:
Yellow73SB said:
I can't see the diamond coated disc lasting long in a chop saw. I know cold saw turn much slower than a chop saw

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/it...er Tools-_-Power Saws and Accessories-_-2ELE4



They are pretty cheap here, I prefer a sawzall over a chop saw though.

It's impossible to get a square cut with a chop saw.
http://www.toolbarn.com/blades/saw/chopsaw.html
Click to expand...

????...???
Click to expand...

Yeh, tiping too fast, he got it ack basswards....

:amazed::devil:
Click to expand...

Actually, he might have meant to say that. I was welding for about 6 months a while back at my uncle's shop. If you put too much pressure on the chop saw when it is cutting, often it bends to one side and you don't get a square cut. You've gotta let the blade do the cutting (which often is not fast enough for the user). If you know how to mark your steel square, you can cut pretty damn square with a sawzall...I know I can, it just takes skill.

The best type of saw I have ever used is a carbide-tipped chop saw. Its the cats ass. There is no dust to breath, the cuts are clean every time, and it cuts way faster than the abrasive blades. The blades last WAY longer than abrasive ones, but the catch is that they are very expensive. Next time I need a chop saw, I am spending my cash on one of those...
Click to expand...

You will use a carbide blade ONCE on a chop saw for cutting steel....

after your hospital stay you can tell the tale....

any carbide blade I ever used is good enough for ALUMINUM only....and at that you go slow and careful.....

obviously I can chop a 2x4 in about 3 seconds with a 10" carbide on a chop saw....

:(:crutches:
Click to expand...

Right on Gene.
I was cutting 4" pvc pipe with a 10" chop saw and 40 tooth carbide blade, jammed and litterally bent the blade in half. Instant stop. Pretty scarey.
Smartened up and only use a 120 tooth blade now.

My neighbor has the real deal, a "cold saw" uses high tooth count blades for steel and coolant on the blade. Will cut all metals very accurately.
Difference is a chop saw will run at 180 fps and a cold saw runs at 20 fps (50rpm), uses coolant and special ground high tooth count thicker blades. Same principles as a milling machine and carbide tooling.

Nothing wrong with abrasive chops saws, just keep the blade from gumming up, use a diamond dresser or just a piece of broken concrete to clean the blade. I use them outside because of the mess.
As always, the funky ones at Homey Depot, the good ones at a welding supply.

Whatever you guys use, just be carefull, one of my neigbors guys has 3 fingers missing.
 
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