Well I don't have a press or an air chisel and I've seen bad results from ham-handed use of one, so this is how I did mine in my garage. It may take a bit longer, but I usually am in the midnite zen state of mind when I do these types of things so I don't mind.
Use a hole saw without the pilot bit in your hand drill to drill/saw out the rubber. Work it around till enough rubber is gone to remove the shaft.
Use a cold chisel to split the inner (shaft) sleeve at the seam, spread it by tapping a screwdriver in till it comes off.
Using a hacksaw (or a sawzall carefully) on the inside of the outer sleeve, cut two grooves opposite each other almost through the sleeve, but don't get into the a-arm. Then cut a slot in the flange, all the way through, at each groove.
Take your cold chisel (on the outside) at a groove and collapse the sleeve in on itself till it comes out.
Clean the shaft ends with emory cloth (or similar). I put anti-sieze on mine, I'll let others argue the merits of that. Run a flapper wheel lightly through the a-arm holes, just enough to clean & smooth them. You don't want to remove any metal. Check for & remove any burrs & dings caused by the knucklehead who used an air chisel to do the job last time. You may need to do some judicious filing and hammerwork to get them concentric & true again.
Find some kind of spacer to fit inside the a-arm flange/channel so you won't tweek it when tapping in the new bushings. I used metal blocks I have with some shimmage, but even a piece of wood would probably work. It needs to be a snug fit. You also need some blocks under the arm to pound against for the same reason. A really big socket works well here.
Find a suitable driver, I used another large socket. I ground it flat on the face for good flat contact on the flange only. It must lay on the flange without hitting the rubber.
Take your bushing out of the freezer, give it a light smear of grease. Put a light smear inside the a-arm hole as well.
Use a heavy hammer, I have a real nice 3 lb hand sledge, to tap the bushings in. Tap--firmly, but don't wail on it. They'll go in nicely. 3, 4, 5 smacks.
It helps to have an extra set of hands to support the assembly while you are tapping them in.
Be sure you don't forget to install the shaft before you do the second one, and be sure you have it in correctly!!!!
I did all eight of mine in two hours this way, and it was the first time I had ever done this job.
And lastly but very importantly, DO NOT TIGHTEN THE NUTS until the full weight of the car is on the suspension. Once the car is settled, I believe the torque is 50 pounds--but you better verify that, it's been a long time.
John
(And if you decide you want to paint the a-arms "while you're at it," use POR 15, it's the only thing worth using here. I wish I had.)
