C3 distributor weights/springs interchangeability?

69427

69427

The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
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I believe I asked this question before, and I apologize, but I've slept a couple times since then. I have a Mr. Gasket set of weights and springs that I got at a swap meet years ago. I'll have some down time at next week's autocross, and I thought about some timing changes and swapping some springs in the distributor. (I might also clean things up under the cap while I'm there.) The description for the package says 55 to 68. Mine's a '69. I'm assuming this is just an old package, versus something significantly different in the distributor to prevent me from using these springs. Is this correct?

Thanks again.
 
I think all the point distributors used the same stuff. As long a the weights don't bind and the springs will return them to "0" you should be fine.
 
Lars is the man!

I'd research all the Lars Dist Rebuild Articles I could find. As I recall he likes something about the factory weights best! Springs? Upper - lower bushings, and shaft shimming?

I've read glowing reviews after he finishes one.


Andy
 
69427 said:
I believe I asked this question before, and I apologize, but I've slept a couple times since then. I have a Mr. Gasket set of weights and springs that I got at a swap meet years ago. I'll have some down time at next week's autocross, and I thought about some timing changes and swapping some springs in the distributor. (I might also clean things up under the cap while I'm there.) The description for the package says 55 to 68. Mine's a '69. I'm assuming this is just an old package, versus something significantly different in the distributor to prevent me from using these springs. Is this correct?

Thanks again.
Click to expand...

The stock weights are the best.
 
big2bird said:
69427 said:
I believe I asked this question before, and I apologize, but I've slept a couple times since then. I have a Mr. Gasket set of weights and springs that I got at a swap meet years ago. I'll have some down time at next week's autocross, and I thought about some timing changes and swapping some springs in the distributor. (I might also clean things up under the cap while I'm there.) The description for the package says 55 to 68. Mine's a '69. I'm assuming this is just an old package, versus something significantly different in the distributor to prevent me from using these springs. Is this correct?

Thanks again.
Click to expand...

The stock weights are the best.
Click to expand...

big2bird said:
69427 said:
Forgot to ask. What sort of lube are you guys using between the weights and the distributor shaft?

Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Nothing. The thrown grease does more harm than good.
Click to expand...

Although Bird needs no support for his answers, I'll throw in some backup:

I tried the replacement weights...they did not move as freely and the fit was not as good. Cleaned up the old weights which worked fine.

I put a little lube under the weights once(against advice!). After a while, there was a little buildup around the weight holes and plate at that spot. I don't know if this caused any problems, but I cleaned it off anyway.
 
Don't use the aftermarket weights. None of them are heat treated, and the pivot holes will "egg out" faster than you can imagine, resulting in the weights binding up. They are also not the correct shape to work properly, and you'll end up with a really screwed up advance curve. Rather, use the stock weights and tailor the quickness of the curve using the aftermarket springs only. You can use the springs in the Mr Gasket kit on almost any distributor, including GM points style, HEI, and MSD. Although some will argue and discuss the shape of the advance curve between idle and 2500 rpm, you'll find for a performance application that the engine transitions through the 700-2500 rpm range so quickly that the exact shape of the curve in this range is irrelevant as long as total advance is obtained before 3000 rpm.

Lars
 
lars said:
Don't use the aftermarket weights. None of them are heat treated, and the pivot holes will "egg out" faster than you can imagine, resulting in the weights binding up. They are also not the correct shape to work properly, and you'll end up with a really screwed up advance curve. Rather, use the stock weights and tailor the quickness of the curve using the aftermarket springs only. You can use the springs in the Mr Gasket kit on almost any distributor, including GM points style, HEI, and MSD. Although some will argue and discuss the shape of the advance curve between idle and 2500 rpm, you'll find for a performance application that the engine transitions through the 700-2500 rpm range so quickly that the exact shape of the curve in this range is irrelevant as long as total advance is obtained before 3000 rpm.

Lars
Click to expand...

Well, this is certainly a performance application at times, but I'm also interested in getting a bit better drivability and economy out of the engine, too. On the track the engine rarely gets below 3000 RPM, but on the street it spends a lot of time at 1500 - 2200 RPM. I'm just trying to optimize as much of the curve as I can.
 
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