I put a Steeroids R&P set up on the 65 a couple years ago. Overall I like the set up except it always felt over assisted. The car was even a little twitchy at hwy speeds. I reduced the pump pressure with a shim kit and that seemed to help. Yesterday I installed a 2 gpm flow valve from Speedway Motors. It made a noticeable difference. The steering feel is much better now. :thumbs:
Steeroids Over Assisted
- Thread starter Sky65
- Start date
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
What did that little trick cost???
I have read lotsa comments from guys about 'over assisted' in 01-2 winter I did my own rack install, before steeroids hit the market, think it was the following winter when they started selling,
my setup was already a '88 vette serp drive, and when doing that pump change I used the OEM '72 valving, not realizing any tech differences in that valving, I did it for the retention of the flare fitting, and so it went with the stock steering for some 6 years....it worked fine with the rack, so left it alone...
:flash:
I have read lotsa comments from guys about 'over assisted' in 01-2 winter I did my own rack install, before steeroids hit the market, think it was the following winter when they started selling,
my setup was already a '88 vette serp drive, and when doing that pump change I used the OEM '72 valving, not realizing any tech differences in that valving, I did it for the retention of the flare fitting, and so it went with the stock steering for some 6 years....it worked fine with the rack, so left it alone...
:flash:
badbirdcage
Well-known member
Tom: Real men just grab the wheel and turn it. :rofl: Owed ya that one. Glad you got it working more comfortably.
Rich:beer:
Rich
You got me fair and square on that one! :smash::smash:
mrvette
It was pretty cheap. You also need the flair adapter for the Steeroids supplied hose. This reduces the flow. Dropping the pressure was a kit from someone. I don't remember who. It also was about $20 plus shipping. If anyone is interested I will find where I got it. I think this flow valve made the most improvement.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mustang-II-Power-Steering-Flow-Valve-2gpm-and-Flare-Adapter,5852.html
You got me fair and square on that one! :smash::smash:
mrvette
It was pretty cheap. You also need the flair adapter for the Steeroids supplied hose. This reduces the flow. Dropping the pressure was a kit from someone. I don't remember who. It also was about $20 plus shipping. If anyone is interested I will find where I got it. I think this flow valve made the most improvement.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mustang-II-Power-Steering-Flow-Valve-2gpm-and-Flare-Adapter,5852.html
That's interesting that the flow valve made the most difference. A 3gph flow valve and a 2gph flow valve should still have the same flow demands. After all, you still need the same flow volume as before.
If the flow demand is higher than the flow limit, you will get pump catch where the steering turns from power to manual (instantly) untill flow meets demand.
If the flow demand is higher than the flow limit, you will get pump catch where the steering turns from power to manual (instantly) untill flow meets demand.
I don't know. Maybe it is a combination of the reduced pressure and the reduced flow? According to the instructions that came with the "pressure kit" I should be running about 700 psi pressure. The other possibility is maybe I have masked another problem? I can only say the car does feel better. The only odd thing is the wheel does not return fully to center by itself. I have to bring the wheel around about the last 1/4 tun by hand. It is not hard to to turn...it just does not come back to full center without a little help at the end. To me the improved feel is worth that minor issue.
Thoughts?
The old saginaw pumps are also known as the 94 pump for it's displacement of 94 cu in, so you can calculate that in gpm. The differences were mostly in the flow control/relief valves between models.
The flow is controlled at the rack with a rotary valve and bar which adjusts to vehicle weight, and also acts as a flow control so at higher speed the flow is very, very small, with it being greatest at idle when needed the most.
Every pressure relief valve I have ever seen creates greater relief pressure with shims, so that is a little confusing.
Since it is a combo flow/relief valve are you certain you were not shimming the position of the flow control spool and not the relief setting?
The flow is controlled at the rack with a rotary valve and bar which adjusts to vehicle weight, and also acts as a flow control so at higher speed the flow is very, very small, with it being greatest at idle when needed the most.
Every pressure relief valve I have ever seen creates greater relief pressure with shims, so that is a little confusing.
Since it is a combo flow/relief valve are you certain you were not shimming the position of the flow control spool and not the relief setting?
Wish I'd taken some pictures. Maybe these will help. These are not mine, I found them on the net.
Flow volume is done with part #1. There is a hole in the center. The hole was smaller by about .025" on the 2 gpm one as compared to the one I took out. The pressure was changed with part #2.
The shims are installed under the end cap reducing the tension on the spring.
The pressure description thing is still confusing.
I saw the webpage with these pics. It states that the shimming increasing relief pressure as I suspected.
http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html
As far as the shims are concerned, (the shim pictured is too big for this) the only place that a shim could possibly be used is to space out the relief seat (they call it the end cap) in hopes of reducing the relief spring pressure, but that would be a really mickey mouse method. Proper would be to istall a correctly rated and correct length spring. The relief pressure should not matter anyway and only active when the actuater is deadheaded.
The lowest PS assist I have ever seen has been on some old smaller Chryler products at 850psi, but I think those were Federal pumps.
Making the flow oriface in the flow control valve (spool) smaller to increase road feel is correct.
Wish you had the original directions for the pressure shim kit, the method would be interesting. :noworry:
I saw the webpage with these pics. It states that the shimming increasing relief pressure as I suspected.
http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html
As far as the shims are concerned, (the shim pictured is too big for this) the only place that a shim could possibly be used is to space out the relief seat (they call it the end cap) in hopes of reducing the relief spring pressure, but that would be a really mickey mouse method. Proper would be to istall a correctly rated and correct length spring. The relief pressure should not matter anyway and only active when the actuater is deadheaded.
The lowest PS assist I have ever seen has been on some old smaller Chryler products at 850psi, but I think those were Federal pumps.
Making the flow oriface in the flow control valve (spool) smaller to increase road feel is correct.
Wish you had the original directions for the pressure shim kit, the method would be interesting. :noworry:
010752
That page is a jeep deal. They are increasing the pressure for a huge ram for ps with big tires. They are not trying to reduce the pressure. I guess I'm not doing a very good job of describing the valve assembly. If you saw it I'm sure you would see adding shims reduces spring pressure therefor reduces output pressure. I do have the instructions but the file is too large to post. PM your email address and I will send it to you. :beer:
That page is a jeep deal. They are increasing the pressure for a huge ram for ps with big tires. They are not trying to reduce the pressure. I guess I'm not doing a very good job of describing the valve assembly. If you saw it I'm sure you would see adding shims reduces spring pressure therefor reduces output pressure. I do have the instructions but the file is too large to post. PM your email address and I will send it to you. :beer: