cajos1968
Well-known member
Guy's are there any tricks around to remove a stuck front rotor? I have drilled out the rivets, but there is no movement in the rotor. How hard can I hit it before damaging the bearings?
Stuck rotor
- Thread starter cajos1968
- Start date
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
I would take it off the car, set on a drill press, and center punch/drill them out, if not, use a hand drill on the floor, then bang good and hard with a block of plywood and a 3 lbs hand sledge....
pound the hub outta the rotor....
pound the hub outta the rotor....
cajos1968
Well-known member
Is there a change that the bearing gets busted, I don't want another project!!
MYBAD79
Moderator
Once you've punched the rivets out there's nothing holding the front rotor on the hub, maybe rust ??
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
I would be rather nervous of breaking anything under a steel/steel hammer blow heavy enough to budge that rotor off the hub...to boot you swinging from inside the car to outside, where YOU are.....then you have the backing plate in the way....MINE are totally missing, deliberately for some years now...
it's no biggie, just a cotter key and a bolt, woopie doo....
:crutches:
SmokinBBC
Well-known member
On a couple that I had rusted, I was able to tap around the rotor hub to loosen the rust.
73 Mike
I'll drive it someday
Assuming that you got all the rivets freed properly, then it can only be rust. Also probably means that it has been on there since birth.
Before you get too enthusiastic with a sledge hammer, I'd suggest a little heat on the rotor hub. Better yet, follow the heat up with quenching with some PB Blaster or Kroil. Remember to get the outside of the studs where they go through the rotor.
Before you get too enthusiastic with a sledge hammer, I'd suggest a little heat on the rotor hub. Better yet, follow the heat up with quenching with some PB Blaster or Kroil. Remember to get the outside of the studs where they go through the rotor.
turtlevette
The Turdle
I have a replacement rotor that is on so good it seems to be welded to the hub. I beat the holy hell out of it with a hand sledge, then just gave up and put the wheel back on.
I plan to try some PB blaster and give it a go again someday. Or just replace it with a spare hub.
cajos1968
Well-known member
Okay, som new ideas thanks.
SmokinBBC
Well-known member
I wonder if you could press it out if you were careful enough?
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
I seen bearing races explode from being pressed on/off a shaft, I hate the thought of a rotor doing that and anyone within rifle shot of that SOB.....
I would go for the 2x4 and hammer on the hub with rotor up in the air a tad....
:crutches:
Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,579
Take off the hub dust cap, remove the cotter pin and the castle nut & slotted washer and pull the whole shebang off. Then put it under a press and take it apart that way.
cajos1968
Well-known member
It's off!! WD40 and a good driver size, lots of small taps. Also Tapped the M10 threat and need to countersink the rotor, then the joy of dailing in the rotor.
cajos1968
Well-known member
Today I did the otherside and the rotor went off in under 30 minutes. The trick is removing one rivet at the time. Whith the first rotor I removed all rivet heads at once, creating some play between the rotor and the hub. So while banging on the rivet it expanded into this space, resulting in me drilling again for the second time.
With removing one rivet at the time the remaning rivets keep the hub an the rotor tight.
With removing one rivet at the time the remaning rivets keep the hub an the rotor tight.
Last edited:
cajos1968
Well-known member
Regarding dailing in the rotor what kind of "play" do I have?
SmokinBBC
Well-known member
cajos1968
Well-known member
Thx, read that post 10 times, now I finally see it.