Denny's U-joint's sale

where is the grease zirk on the spicers? It is virtually impossible to grease the rear joints with the zirks in the middle. I picked up some NAPA "el hencho in USA" joints with a single grease zirk in one cap. It is not a conventional zirk. It needs some special needle adapter.
 
I'm replacing my U-joints with solid joints as soon as I get to it... probably some time this summer when I replace the trailing arms.... if anybody wants them: free stock size greaseable U-joints..... U pay shipping and they're yours.... (like new, less than 1500 miles on these) - I just don't feel the "warm and fuzzy" with these anymore.... scared to floor it with the 383 ...

Denny's 3" half shafts are $200 each..... they sure look sweet..... worth the money ????
 
I have often wondered about the use of the totally massive CV joints out of say a 70's Eldo FWD the ones with the 650 ft lbs 500 ci engine and the modded up 400 turbo...them things were HUGE....stick them on the ends of a shark/vette 1/2 shaft and forgetboutit....:twitch::bump:
 
I'm replacing my U-joints with solid joints as soon as I get to it... probably some time this summer when I replace the trailing arms.... if anybody wants them: free stock size greaseable U-joints..... U pay shipping and they're yours.... (like new, less than 1500 miles on these) - I just don't feel the "warm and fuzzy" with these anymore.... scared to floor it with the 383 ...

Denny's 3" half shafts are $200 each..... they sure look sweet..... worth the money ????

I'd like to know that too. Any opinions?? TT??
 
where is the grease zirk on the spicers? It is virtually impossible to grease the rear joints with the zirks in the middle. I picked up some NAPA "el hencho in USA" joints with a single grease zirk in one cap. It is not a conventional zirk. It needs some special needle adapter.

How about a picture? I ground down the diameter/circumference of the grease gun end several years ago so it would fit inside the u-joints on the vette. Works great after that. What's unconventional about the zerks in your u-joints?
 
I'm replacing my U-joints with solid joints as soon as I get to it...??


i wonder about how much stronger solids really are. You're talking about a 1/8" hole drilled through the center. I bet that reduces the strength less than 2%.

But its one of those feel good things.....i guess.
 
Here's one of the photos from Gary's U-joint thread:
214a0aa40b22725.jpg

I just hope the solid joints are stronger than this...
 
I'd sure like to see some actual measurement data documenting the strength difference between these two type joints. I certainly don't doubt that the solids are stronger, but like Turtle commented, is it significant? And, what is the actual torque rating of each type? Unless you're dumping the clutch at high RPM, I would speculate that most engine/trans combos won't put out sufficient torque to twist off these joints. Up until a couple weeks ago when I got new halfshafts (and new Spicer solid joints), I have had greasable u-joints in my halfshafts for years. While I don't drag race, I do run the crap out of the car on autocross and road courses, all behind a big block and Hoosier tires. I've broken the transmission twice, but never had a u-joint issue. I realize YMMV.
I'm not trying to disagree just for disagreement's sake, but I just like to see actual data over bench racing speculation.
 
I would expect a wide quality range between these greasable joints - some good some junk....

comparing apples to apples as far as materials and forging goes drilling a grease hole should not reduce the strength that much. We can do some calcs on it to prove that.

I just think its good to be able to add grease every 6 months. Every one i've ever had that failed has done so for the lack of grease because i never grease them. You just can't get to the zirk.

Grinding the end of gun is a good idea. Thanks 69427
 
Looking at the surface of that joint, I would say that the threat for the zerk initiated the failure. Look at the left side, seems almost smooth. The right side and the front are var more deformed. This are the characteristics of "cutting" (2/3 smooth 1/3 rough). I don't think the hole is the weak point, I think the threats are. Remember halve shafts are unbalanced and rotating around 100 to 300 times a minute? This will introduce a lot of fatigue, my best guess is at the edges of the threat.
 
Last edited:
1350 are the 1/2 shaft sizes and $27 is about the average price. For comparison I buy them for $22 and sell for $27 just to cover my time and shipping cost and $20 profit on 4 sure ain't much.
$200 3" 1/2 shafts, well for $228 you can buy Tom's, which I use, and are
3.5"- .134" wall thickness a LOT better then 3". I don't see any deals there.
 
I think there is quite abit of strength difference between the greaseable and non greasable, i would like to see someone do the calculations, i think they would be supprized. I think it is a matter of confort, if you are of the mind that you need to constanly grease u-joints then i think you had better install greasable ones. I have installed the non greasable ones on mine, the seals on the joints are greatly improved over the greasable ones that come out, so i am not scared of any outside contamination into my joints. Auto manufactures have not used greasable joints since the late 80's (Ford or GM anyways), they must know something.

Just my opinion anyways
 
As someone pointed out the thread is the issue not the port for the grease. I use NAPA Made in USA with a grease fitting so the joint blows up before the center section or stub axles. No slicks of course.

Referring to the CV joints I am pondering this now. I was thinking massive Chevy pick up variety from the front end with the six bolt plate (no yokes). CVs do not accelrate and decelerate EVERY revolution like a u-joint. There velocit is constant (contact velocity = CV joint). OR you could go with the Thunderbird Super Coupe rear that uses CVs. The '03-'04 Cobras use the same rear - shhh don't tell them that the price will go up for used T-Brid parts.
 
I like the CV joint idea, that would be a great mod. You would have to have a 6-link setup so there is no side load on the CV's.
 
Top