Rollcage

I was thinking of installing a roll cage very similar to this install. I am looking for opinions and or suggestions for improvements. I know it is not the best the way you don't have to cut the deck lid, but I don't want to cut my deck lid. I mainly want it to stiffen up the frame. Should I just go with a 6 point? I would like to attach the hard top to the hoop on an 8 point though. The cage is from SW race cars. I am sure you recognize whose work it is.

If you don't want to notch the deck, that's the only way to go. Who's is it?

If your main goal is stiffening the frame (and the important part is the kickup area) then this is infinitely better than just the frame. However, I'm not seeing any door bars. What about those? The kickup would be supported better with a door bar or maybe a short diagonal bar to the frame next to the seat.

The guy who installed it never heard of triangulation, all the joints are off. The rear diagonal bar for instance, how much would it have taken to angle it a bit more or move it up, it would have joined the top bar.

Does anyone ever gusset the corners? I did on mine.

Twin_Turbo said:

If you don't want to notch the deck, that's the only way to go. Who's is it?

If your main goal is stiffening the frame (and the important part is the kickup area) then this is infinitely better than just the frame. However, I'm not seeing any door bars. What about those? The kickup would be supported better with a door bar or maybe a short diagonal bar to the frame next to the seat.

The guy who installed it never heard of triangulation, all the joints are off. The rear diagonal bar for instance, how much would it have taken to angle it a bit more or move it up, it would have joined the top bar.

Does anyone ever gusset the corners? I did on mine.

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TT is right on the rear diagonal bar, legal must be at least 75% of the height of the hoop.

That bar would not pass tech, rear braces are much to low. 6" is max from top of hoop. You cant get by without notching the deck lid.

Must be on a show car. Looks nice. Guess it would pass vintage tech.

Mainly I was looking at doing the rear bars the way he (Stan) did. I know it is not ideal but I have a 68 without the kick-up braces. I don't want to pull the body and add them so I was thinking this would be better than nothing as TT said. I don't know why he did not do at least some door bar. If I do a cage I would definitely have door bars.

Would this be better for the rear bars?


Does this door bar even go to the cage, looks like frame to frame?

That last pic is what I meant as an option instead of a full door bar. That tube spans the frame rail to the kickup and really improves that area, the stock welds there and design is very weak.

Twin_Turbo said:

That last pic is what I meant as an option instead of a full door bar. That tube spans the frame rail to the kickup and really improves that area, the stock welds there and design is very weak.

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I don`t believe "full" cages were allowed in SCCA before 1969- 1970 but the Greenwood car was built later than that and for a different set of rules (IMSA), I can`t imagine John Greenwood racing without door bars. As to the bar in the "cutaway" I think thats a Mackay car which means he decides whats "period" and whats not.....

Twin_Turbo said:

That last pic is what I meant as an option instead of a full door bar. That tube spans the frame rail to the kickup and really improves that area, the stock welds there and design is very weak.

Click to expand...

Maybe I should just weld in these supports and that's it? What do you guys think about a cage in a street car, safer or more dangerous?

racervette69 said:

I've followed some heated debates on the SCCA and Hillclimb forums regarding roll bars in street cars. I've seen two head injuries on the track with helmets on, from contact with the bar and with 5 point harness. One in a C3, the other a miata. I cant image what the out come would have been without the helmet and harness. But what would of happen without the bar?

Also the arguments of removing the crush zones in the car. Not my call, hell, sleeping on the couch can kill you.. falling in your bathtub.

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A couple of olde tyme friend been racing SCCA ITB-C for decades, she drives, weighing less than 100 lbs...barely 5' tall, kid's got SPUNK though....

so one time some POS 4 banger import blows it's engine heading into turn 1 at Smut Point, and of course, Anna is right behind him, hit's the oil, and into the berm, up in the air, clearing some guy's open wheeled racer by enough to leave HER tire marks on HIS helmet.....

off to the hospital, car about totaled, but Randy can and does fix ANYTHING, he is a body shop manager at a BMW stealership....he not all there either sands metal with 600 grit for painting....by hand....:shocking::gurney:

ANYWAY after seeing them pix, and watching her recover over about 1.5 years before she could look UP, standing there, looking UP, her inner was affected and she would fall smack over someone had to catch her....funny to think of, but not so funny friends scrambling to catch her....

SO Yeh, I think of that crap every time I get in a convertible, which is every damn day....

:gurney::beer:

racervette69 said:

I've followed some heated debates on the SCCA and Hillclimb forums regarding roll bars in street cars. I've seen two head injuries on the track with helmets on, from contact with the bar and with 5 point harness. One in a C3, the other a miata. I cant image what the out come would have been without the helmet and harness. But what would of happen without the bar?

Also the arguments of removing the crush zones in the car. Not my call, hell, sleeping on the couch can kill you.. falling in your bathtub.

Click to expand...

I did read that the DOT has approved SFI foam covered bar as safe for hwy use.