Paint question. Lars???

B

BlackRat

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Lar's or anyone else that may know.

I am following Lars' paint paper and am ready to spray the hood with base clear but have a couple of questions. I sealed it with DP, sprayed K36 and blocked with 150, resprayed with K36 and blocked with 220, wet sanded with 600.

-According to the paper I shoot some more DP on the areas I sanded through the K36. Would this not leave a high spot showing under the BC\CC?


Stripes. I am painting motion stripes on the hood. First shooting the L88 hump with Burgandy then masking it with 3m stripe tape and shooting the black.
-When is it best to remove the tape? Imediately after last coat of black Or let the BC dry and then remove?

-Do I wet sand the base to blend the tape lines prior to CC? If so what grit and how long before I do it?


Thanks
Wade
 
If you cut through the K36 in a few small areas, don't do anything. It's smooth and will give good adhesion. If the burgundy is metallic, you can't wet-sand it. Just pull the tape right after the last coat of base.
 
Sounds like you're doing some nice work - you're on the right track.

Anyplace you have a sand-through of the K36, you have to seal that spot if you have sanded through to the substrate. You can use either K36 or DP as a sealer - both can be reduced and used as a sealer. I prefer doing it with the DP simply because it goes on a little thinner. Mix the DP 2:1 with a 10% DT reduction. Shoot it lightly over the sand-through areas until the sand-through has coverage. The build-up is so insignificant that you will not have any problem with a "bump" or high spot after basecoat and clear. If you do not seal a sand-through, the basecoat will "pinhole" if shot directly onto bare substrate or onto polyester filler under the K36. After the sealer has been shot, let it dry, and then lightly go over the car again with your tack cloth to catch any light overspray.

On your stripes - you are doing it right: Shoot your stripe color first. The basecoat will flash and dry very quickly. Once you have the stripe color shot and it has dried, tape off the stripe and mask it off. Then, shoot the rest of the car. Let the basecoat dry before peeling off the tape - if you're using a booth with bake dry, you can peel the tape after the bake cycle. If you're doing this at room temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours. The basecoat, after flashing off the solvents, is actually very thin, so you will not have a paint build-up ridge at the tape line of any significance (unless you really hammered the basecoat on thick, which you don't want to do). Once the tape is removed, you can simply tack the car down and blow the clear right over everything - it will come out perfectly flat in the tapeline areas.

Lars
 
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BlackRat..did you cut through the K36 and the DP?..If so, reseal the area like Lars suggests. Is the burgundy metallic? If it is, don't wet-sand the burgundy.
 
Ok I shot the bugandy and it is a metallic. I got some spitting of the gun what do I do with the spots?????
 
Probably a few days late, but without pics I would nib the spots with 1000, hit it with a tack rag then reshoot. No need to sand the whole thing or introduce moisture which could come back to haunt you.
 
BlackRat said:
Lar's or anyone else that may know.

I am following Lars' paint paper and am ready to spray the hood with base clear but have a couple of questions. I sealed it with DP, sprayed K36 and blocked with 150, resprayed with K36 and blocked with 220, wet sanded with 600.

-According to the paper I shoot some more DP on the areas I sanded through the K36. Would this not leave a high spot showing under the BCCC?


Stripes. I am painting motion stripes on the hood. First shooting the L88 hump with Burgandy then masking it with 3m stripe tape and shooting the black.
-When is it best to remove the tape? Imediately after last coat of black Or let the BC dry and then remove?

-Do I wet sand the base to blend the tape lines prior to CC? If so what grit and how long before I do it?


Thanks
Wade
Click to expand...

Pardon my sheer stupidity guys, but I"m trying to get primer on my car....Dupont Nason med gray...stuck a couple mainly meaningless pix on another thread.....but what in hell ARE....DP, K36, DT???

As typical with me, I found many spots that were not smooth/shaped/flat when the primer was put on, in one spot on the factory flip spoiler the damn hose got on top, so I just shot on extra primer to sand down, which I did the next day, of course it left sanding marks so I shot some more yesterday morning....as well as in other areas, like up front whre I sanded through down to glass again I"m just putting urethane primer on naked glass that has had mucho urethane type finishes on it previously....
:gurney:
 
mrvette said:
what in hell ARE....DP, K36, DT???
Click to expand...

PPG lingo......like in Military acronyms.

DP.......epoxy primer....DP40, DP50, DP60...the number represents the color of the primer.

K36.....primer surfacer ..... they also make K38, ones high build the other is not.

DT....is reducer
 
DP is PPG's epoxy prefix. K36 is their high-build urethane primer-surfacer. DT=no idea. Most manufacturers have their own numbering systems.
 
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mrvette said:
Pardon my sheer stupidity guys, but I"m trying to get primer on my car....Dupont Nason med gray...stuck a couple mainly meaningless pix on another thread.....but what in hell ARE....DP, K36, DT???
Click to expand...

If you notice in the opening post in this thread, the question and comments were in regard to my tech paper, and all answers have been in that regard. All of the part numbers, systems, and procedures are in the paper - all you have to do is request a copy by e-mail.

[email protected]

Lars
 
lars said:
mrvette said:
Pardon my sheer stupidity guys, but I"m trying to get primer on my car....Dupont Nason med gray...stuck a couple mainly meaningless pix on another thread.....but what in hell ARE....DP, K36, DT???
Click to expand...

If you notice in the opening post in this thread, the question and comments were in regard to my tech paper, and all answers have been in that regard. All of the part numbers, systems, and procedures are in the paper - all you have to do is request a copy by e-mail.

[email protected]

Lars
Click to expand...


And I highly recommend this. It is like Lars wrote it for the lowest common denominator. ME!!:D:wink:
 
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