Frame mods for 6" backspace

Bee Jay

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2008
Messages
166
Location
Lompoc, Ca.
Any one here modify their frame to fit large wheels and tires? I'm hoping to do 6" of backspacing to fit my 10.5" with 295/35-18 tires on the rear. I have the chalked area that I am concerned about enough clearance. I won't know for sure untill my 2" spacers arive, but you can see the wheels and tires mounted with 2.5" spacers. I think I have more than 1/2" clearance, but I am concerned about this area. The frame seems to have a doubler here. What is that for? If I remove the doubler, can I strengthen the frame another way. I remember Norval did this, but I can't find his thread.
Bee Jay
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Interesting you find that point being the closest on the frame, as I thought it was the point nearest the sway bar....hit that sway bar first, after the t-arms and the obvious ebrake I see you moved already...offset arms, no swaybar, then the frame in that swaybar area....I have to go look at my car again for that area....

:rain:

Yup, you right, so much for memory....it's as close as my sway bar....I don't recall any frame mod threads from Norval, but I know he did his own offset arms.....
 
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The sway bar is modified and out of the way, and the offset trailing arms have the e-brake cable out of the way. My '79 had the relocated e brake cable anyways. I was surprised too, I thought the area of concern would be further up the frame. I need to look at some other frame pictures too see if that reinforcement piece is on every frame. I don't think I have to trim much, and the 35 series tire wont deflect much.
Bee Jay
 
BJ, I dunno how to keep the same centerline on the tire, and get anything wider than a 275/50/17 that I have on there now...I refuse to kill my sway bar, and not cutting into my frame....not now anyway, my tires are new...and so money is not growing on trees anymore....

not in THIS 'economy'.....

:bonkers:
 
You could either cut it away and weld in a narrower section, just check if the trailing arm has enough room (there's a good amount of excess size to that trailing arm pocket). Depending on what kind of roll bar you have (wether it reinforces the kickup or not) you could get away with a thinner section there.

How's this for clearance :)

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I trimmed the frame today using my sawsall and grinder. I have some welding to do. I don't think I weakened the frame, but will weld plates to cover this hole. My wheel simulator says I will have plenty of room now.
Bee Jay
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I kinda surprised that is all you need cut, on account of the bounce on the wheel, I would think you need the whole frame cut in that sort of spot....

someone was bending the sway bar in back to accommodate tires was that YOU??
 
Yep, I modified the sway bar to fit the 10.5" wheels and tires. I tried running without the sway bar and didn't like how it handled. So, offset trailing arms, modified sway bar, and notched frame to fit these big a tires. I may be able to move up to 305 or 315s next time I need tires.

I disconnected the rear spring and moved the hubs up and down thru its full travell. Surprisingly, the closest clearance/interference is at full drop, not full compression. But now I have at least 1/2" clearance thruout with 6" of backspacing. I left most of the doubled seam and will weld metal to the inside, and grind smooth. Grinding is a PITA. I checked on my adapters, they ship Monday.
Bee Jay
 
Frame Modification

Keep us updated on the finished product. I am getting ready to do the same modifications to my 68. I have a set of C5 Z06 wheels in the rear with the 2" spacers. There is a little bit of rub on the tire, but I ground away at the frame already. I also am a little bit toed out in the rear to help with the clearance.

Did you have any close clearances with the top portion of the frame? From my memory I was thinking the top side of the frame was the next closest point.

I need to get this done before the power tour comes along, and I have about 12 hrs of driving with rubbing tires:cussing:

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Here is what I did last weekend. I cut three steel panels about 2" square and ground them down to fit inside the frame at the front of the hole, the back of the hole, and a horizontal piece in the middle of the hole. I called them reinforcing plates. My welding is really, really, ugly. So you won't see pictures of that. But I weld, grind most of it away, weld some more, grind some more. I am satisfied that these plates are very securely welded in. I hope this reinforces the frame in that area, so that the frame is as strong as before I notched it. I'm covering the hole next, and will share pictures of that after I'm thru grinding away the ugly welds. Guess what the difference is between good penetration and burn thru?
Not much.
Bee Jay
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Dont feel bad about your welding ability, mine is much worse, and if not for my welder buddy across the river, almost none of my car projects would be pulled off.....

:rain::clobbered:
 
The difference between good penetration and burn through is a lot more if you remove the milling scale first :)

Looks like you're doing a good job and thought it through, not everyone has the gonads to cut up a frame LOL
 
yup, it has to be clean.... hit it with a sandpaper disc or Dremel inside the frame - can't weld dirt, paint, grease, grime - it will also reduce the fumes quiet a bit :thumbs:
 
Here is my latest efforts on my frame. I cut out two plates, ground them to fit, welded them in. Then I did my grind and weld some more dance. My welding is getting better, but I'm still not ready to share. Almost done. I think the reinforcing plates and these plates will make the notched frame OK strength wise. Comments?
Bee Jay
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Here is the passenger side:
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More welding and grinding this weekend, and sawing pieces. It's like piecing together a puzzle. Weld the piece in, grind it smooth, weld the next piece in, grind it smooth. I'm getting better at welding, but still not good enough to share pictures of it. I'm also getting pretty good a grinding. The left side is about done except for paint. The right side needs another piece. Maybe I'll finish next weekend.
Bee Jay
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I got home a little earlier today, and it was too windy and cold to do the daily walk with the wife, so I decided to weld in my last piece. It was getting dark, and my Lakers were comming on, so no grinding today. I'll let you guys see some of my welding finally. I'm no Jesse James, but if you look at the last picture, it has my practice plate that I started welding just a few weeks ago. Compare that with my current welding. My wife laughed at the before and after.
Bee Jay
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The piece you welded in is rusty, next time clean off all the rust, it will improve your welds tremendously. Also, run more heat, less wire speed and slow down the torch. Practise some more on scrap metal.

On your frame, if you grind away all the weld buildup and you had bad penetration to start with, you loose almsot all the integrity your weld had. Take a peek on the backside of the metal, see if you have full penetration. It will show as a sort of bubbled surface from where the full penetrated weld pool got in contact with air (no shielding gas there)
 
Bee Jay,

i can't see that you're gaining more than 1/4 inch from all that work.

am i wrong? and if so how much are you gaining?
 
The piece you welded in is rusty, next time clean off all the rust, it will improve your welds tremendously. Also, run more heat, less wire speed and slow down the torch. Practise some more on scrap metal.

On your frame, if you grind away all the weld buildup and you had bad penetration to start with, you loose almsot all the integrity your weld had. Take a peek on the backside of the metal, see if you have full penetration. It will show as a sort of bubbled surface from where the full penetrated weld pool got in contact with air (no shielding gas there)

OK, more power, less wire speed, slow down. Yes, I need much practice.
Bee Jay
 
Bee Jay,

i can't see that you're gaining more than 1/4 inch from all that work.

am i wrong? and if so how much are you gaining?

I gained about 1/2 to 3/4" in the area I notched. I actually notched more than necessary I think. The tire and wheel would have rubbed there with the 2" adapters. They didn't touch at all and I had about 1/4" clearance with 2.5" adapters. Now I have 1/2" minimum clearance. I'm confortable with that because these 35 series tires don't flex much. I could have called it a day with 2.5" adapters, but I didn't like the tires sticking out past the fender even 1/2".
But you are right, it's a lot of work for only an additional 1/2" backspace. But I think if someone wanted to, they could cut more agressively, and notch enough of the frame in that area to gain enough clearance for 6.5" backspace, and maybe fit some 12" C6 Z06 wheels and tires. Now that would be cool.
Bee Jay
 
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