Types of car paints.....

mrvette

mrvette

Phantom of the Opera
Joined
Mar 24, 2008
Messages
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Location
NE Florida
I have heard stories through the years.....that all car companies use WATER soluble paints today, that is what modern finishes are made from....

Years ago there were tales of guys painting with things like Rustoleum, which was a mineral spirits thinner, and it turning out great.....

I wonder how the water based clears by Minwax/urethanes Helmsmen for yachts outdoor furniture would work, available in semi gloss, maybe even flat....

wonder about getting some powdered aluminum and adding to the clear to put metal on top of the black, in the clears....

trying to save MONEY is #1 job......300 bux for auto paint is a bit much....
 
mrvette said:
I have heard stories through the years.....that all car companies use WATER soluble paints today, that is what modern finishes are made from....

Years ago there were tales of guys painting with things like Rustoleum, which was a mineral spirits thinner, and it turning out great.....

I wonder how the water based clears by Minwax/urethanes Helmsmen for yachts outdoor furniture would work, available in semi gloss, maybe even flat....

wonder about getting some powdered aluminum and adding to the clear to put metal on top of the black, in the clears....

trying to save MONEY is #1 job......300 bux for auto paint is a bit much....
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Good Luck!
 
The price difference in auto paints reflects the durability/lifespan of the finish. You can have MAACO paint your 'Vette for less than what I pay for a gallon of DuPont base-coat. Might keep it's gloss for a year....(I doubt it will).
 
big_G said:
The price difference in auto paints reflects the durability/lifespan of the finish. You can have MAACO paint your 'Vette for less than what I pay for a gallon of DuPont base-coat. Might keep it's gloss for a year....(I doubt it will).
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That's the whole thing, Panic and Randy have me convinced to go flat black, easy to do, easy to maintain when the inevitable idiots screws it UP....in 50 years the very LONGEST period of time I have owned a decent looking car, new, fresh paint, redo...what EVER is 6 months....6 freeking MONTHS....

about the shortest time span in 30 days to the count.....that was 3 years ago last August.....

Pardon ME for copping a attutude, but I just NOT spending a million bux on a paint job I gotta watch over with a 357 cocked and ready.....

for one thing, cops take a dim view of that.....

:gurney::beer:
 
Flat clearcoat is not any cheaper than gloss clearcoat. If you want to use single stage you might as well go to Maaco.... not worth the effort.... it's not worth the money either but I'd be more pissed about the wasted time and effort sanding the car. It will look like $hit in less than a year....
 
MYBAD79 said:
Flat clearcoat is not any cheaper than gloss clearcoat. If you want to use single stage you might as well go to Maaco.... not worth the effort.... it's not worth the money either but I'd be more pissed about the wasted time and effort sanding the car. It will look like in less than a year....
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He's kinda right on this one. You will get what you pay for. Why don't you paint it? If your not comfortable about painting, flat black will hide the mistakes.

Danny
 
vette said:
MYBAD79 said:
Flat clearcoat is not any cheaper than gloss clearcoat. If you want to use single stage you might as well go to Maaco.... not worth the effort.... it's not worth the money either but I'd be more pissed about the wasted time and effort sanding the car. It will look like in less than a year....
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He's kinda right on this one. You will get what you pay for. Why don't you paint it? If your not comfortable about painting, flat black will hide the mistakes.

Danny
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OH, I intend to paint it myself, just not sure what type paint to use....

wondering about boat paint, clear urethanes for outdoor use, off the store shelf....

I have a vette friend up the road a piece, with a cross draft booth....open garage on both ends.....so to do it there....

but I"m tempted to shoot the gray sanding/filler primer here in the driveway with a nice gentle breeze to blow it away from me....I stand upwind....

:D go there for the one step urethane black.....

thing is.....my old burgundy was in fact a two step Ditzler Radiance job....dungaree light blue metallic over sprayed with Crimson candy.....so the candy is a translucent type thing much like a clear coat...and lasted some 20 years or more....not so evil.....so why not a single step urethane??

and there are water based urethanes today, I understand.....what gives...

:crylol:
 
[quote=mrvette;36672
I"m tempted to shoot the gray sanding/filler primer here in the driveway with a nice gentle breeze to blow it away from me....I stand upwind....


Hell yea you can do that, in fact you can paint the whole car in your driveway if you want. you just got to watch out for low flying birds and kamikaze bugs and you'll be fine.

Danny
 
vette said:
mrvette;36672 I"m tempted to shoot the gray sanding/filler primer here in the driveway with a nice gentle breeze to blow it away from me....I stand upwind.... Hell yea you can do that said:
From what i hear, the bugs are so big in Florida that they just might pull up a stool and buy you a drink.:huh:
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Yeh, probably so, I got enough friend that bug me all the time....:shocking::drink::beer:
 
Don't atempt to use the Duplicolor premixed stuff, I just used it for my rad shroud and it was ok for that but I wouldn't use it for exterior stuff unless it's a beater that you just want one color.
 
After March you can pretty much forget about painting outside, too many bugs... not that big of a problem for the primer/surfacer as that gets sanded anyways.

Keep in mind that the primer you use must be compatible with the topcoat. I have no clue what that boat coating is going to do to the primer you're using...


I don't understand why you want to take such a risk to safe what ? $200 maybe ??

Acrylic Enamel single stage is $80 a gallon (includes paint,reducer and hardener)
http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=RSP+AE2511-KIT-M

Acrylic Urethane is $100 a gallon:
http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=RSP+AU2511-KIT-M

Polyester based primer is $70:
http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=KUS+KPP105-GL

Cheapest material is $150 (plus shipping).


Now... the base/clear kit is $220:
Complete Ready-To-Spray Kits
Each Kit Includes:
1-Gallon Urethane Basecoat Color
1-Gallon Urethane Reducer of Your Choice
1-Gallon KC210 Kustom Shop Premium Urethane Clear
1-Quart KH212 Overall Urethane Hardener
1-8oz KE218 Flow Enhancer
5-EA Quality 190 Micron Nylon Automotive Strainers
5-EA Wooden Paint Mixing Sticks

http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=RSP+UB2511-KIT-M

The Urethane primer for base/clear is $100 and can be used as a sealer:
http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=KUS+KIT-KUP405-GL

$330 for base/clear (plus shipping).


Less than $200 difference - it's a no brainer to use base/clear.
 
MYBAD79 said:
After March you can pretty much forget about painting outside, too many bugs... not that big of a problem for the primer/surfacer as that gets sanded anyways.

Keep in mind that the primer you use must be compatible with the topcoat. I have no clue what that boat coating is going to do to the primer you're using...


I don't understand why you want to take such a risk to safe what ? $200 maybe ??

Acrylic Enamel single stage is $80 a gallon (includes paint,reducer and hardener)
http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=RSP+AE2511-KIT-M

Acrylic Urethane is $100 a gallon:
http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=RSP+AU2511-KIT-M

Polyester based primer is $70:
http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=KUS+KPP105-GL

Cheapest material is $150 (plus shipping).


Now... the base/clear kit is $220:
Complete Ready-To-Spray Kits
Each Kit Includes:
1-Gallon Urethane Basecoat Color
1-Gallon Urethane Reducer of Your Choice
1-Gallon KC210 Kustom Shop Premium Urethane Clear
1-Quart KH212 Overall Urethane Hardener
1-8oz KE218 Flow Enhancer
5-EA Quality 190 Micron Nylon Automotive Strainers
5-EA Wooden Paint Mixing Sticks

http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=RSP+UB2511-KIT-M

The Urethane primer for base/clear is $100 and can be used as a sealer:
http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=KUS+KIT-KUP405-GL

$330 for base/clear (plus shipping).


Less than $200 difference - it's a no brainer to use base/clear.
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I have been told to use clear by SO many folks, but I have an aversion to it, because of all the cars I see that are less than ten years old, and have the paint peeling off the horizontal surfaces....enough already....which is why I want a one step paint.....

this whole damn subject is such a mystery...I want the Caddy Firemist GREEN seen from backside of the moon, but totally scared someone going to just mess it up...

and it's going to be impossible to fix...

maybe flat/semi gloss black thing is....it's Florida....can't imagine a HOTTER color....

Flat white?? BORING....:crap:
 
I painted my old Firebird with Dupont Centauri, single stage acrylic enamel. Check into it if they still make it, was easy to paint and held up good. I don't think I spent more that $200 for a gal paint/reducer and hardner.
 
mrvette said:
I have been told to use clear by SO many folks, but I have an aversion to it, because of all the cars I see that are less than ten years old, and have the paint peeling off the horizontal surfaces....enough already....which is why I want a one step paint.....

this whole damn subject is such a mystery...I want the Caddy Firemist GREEN seen from backside of the moon, but totally scared someone going to just mess it up...

and it's going to be impossible to fix...
Click to expand...

The clear is peeling because people don't wax their cars and park under trees and never clean their cars.... you can use the most expensive paint, if you neglect it it will look horrible after a while...

There are many metallic greens on TCP's website, easy to fix, even for me and I am not a professional painter.....just repaint one panel :thumbs:
 
The other thing about the clearcoat peeling is the surface was not totally prepped and clean before the clear was put on. I've seen clearcoats you could peel off with your fingernails.

the biggest trick I've seen is to make sure everything is compatible- from the primer to the final coat of clear or color.
 
Good paint can last a long time. PPG base clear. I painted it back in 1990. Waxed or polished maybe 4 times since then. Always garaged.PDRM0629.jpg
 
TimAT said:
The other thing about the clearcoat peeling is the surface was not totally prepped and clean before the clear was put on. I've seen clearcoats you could peel off with your fingernails.

the biggest trick I've seen is to make sure everything is compatible- from the primer to the final coat of clear or color.
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Yeh, something my welder buddy was referring to the other day, is do NOT mix brands....

PPG, Dupont, and Sherwin are supposedly the only paint makers around...all the rest are subsidiaries.....so buy from ONE maker as their shit is NOT compatible....

dunno if true or not...but he been in shipyards and cars enough, so maybe he right....I dunno, really....

Tim You know, to me paint's paint, slap that shit on with a brush/roller/sprayer, and case closed....
 
This month's Car Craft painted a whole car for $750--including the gun and supplies--using Eastwood paint.
 
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