Body mount torque sequence

Not so much sequence that I know of, but to get the spacers/shims in there right so the doors line up, and the ass end has enough support without busting loose....also to get the front on there good, so no stress on the glue joints on the cowling....it will show stresses through the paint.....

don't ask about that last one....:mad::shocking:
 
cajos1968 said:
Could you elaborate on that?
Click to expand...

You mean on the fenders?? or the tail end??

the front fenders of a shark are glued to the A pillars, and if everything is really right, the glue is enough to support the NAKED front clip there, no hood, no rad support, no nothing just glass, BUT....with age and such, my experience with say changing out a wrecked frame that was patched up really badly in front, is that the front fenders developed stress cracks in the paint due to not perfectly supporting the front end when the body was lifted off, this had been done on a 2 post lift, with ease, rolled the frame out and did the switch, rolled the new frame/assy under it, and had problems with the paint....had to play with the #3 & 4 body mounts to get the doors to line up good, #1&2 were fine, but they close together anyway....the front fenders are not too cool being held up by just the cowling need support, and if i'ts not good tension the paint cracks....

:search:
 
Hmm, I understand I should do things right, my question is how? DO I torque a supported frame or a frame on wheels, just like suspention parts? What is the trick with the doors?
 
When I replaced mine I left all of the bolts loose and verified that all of the 8 mounts are tight, means the body is sitting on all eight and not only on six for example, leaving the remaining mounts loose...makes sense ??
 
cajos1968 said:
Hmm, I understand I should do things right, my question is how? DO I torque a supported frame or a frame on wheels, just like suspention parts? What is the trick with the doors?
Click to expand...

The car I worked on we did the frame change on, was also a '72 vert by happenstance....so it is a direct A-B on my car, the thing is that the #4 mount can be a tad higher or lower and that opens up the top of the door gap on the latch end.....the amount of deflection in 1-2 can change the angle of the hinge side of the doors, but is more easily taken up by adjusting the door hinges....I would measure the body shim thicknesses and dublicate that, going from there, the #4 is above/rear of the rear wheels and so that steel cup rivited to the plastic knob there is rusted out like my car, it has to be replaced and shimmed to fit the doors up again...kind of a PIA....

I have reas various documents/descriptions on what GM did in St. Louis but been too long ago.....do a search, maybe you can find something....

TWO common issues with doors, the hinge side is close to the fender, and with a bit of wear, the door skin fiberglass gets chipped on the upper hinge by opening wear patterns....then the latch side is hard to open maybe from upper/lower hinge wear, then we get to the #4 body mount and the frame involved...where rust maybe change the overall strength....lovely....

:confused:
 
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