Here is the deal

First of all,i suck at spraying paint. 2nd i really suck at spraying paint.
I am going to we sand it back down and find a body shop to shoot the paint for me.
As much as i tried at getting my garage clean,my paint is just full of dirt,actually it looks like little hairs,or lint.
so back it out tomorrow and start sanding again :suicide:

And NO i am not joking. And yes i am PISSED but since this is a family site i cannot express how pissed i am

Man, that sucks. I feel bad for you as I know how much work you've put in. I can't imagine that a paint shop would charge you too much to shoot the colour but they may not guarantee their work as you did all the prep work and repairs etc.

It might be cheaper to pay for a plane ticket and get Karsten or SMYDA to come shoot it for you :waxer:

DAMMMMMM i went out in the garage after taking a shower to see if i could figure out what went wrong,the paint is dry enough to rub your hand on it and not smudge it, after walking around the car with my hand on it,i pulled my hand off and it was black,black dust all over my hands,the same dust on the plastic hanging for a paint booth. what the hell, was the over spray on the plastic attaching itself to the car????? and that's what all my dirt is??? why is it coming off the walls and attaching itself to my car DAMM DAMM DAMM

in the right light you can see the dust all over the car and where i ran my hand across it :cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing:

F*&% it i am going to bed

Good news first: all you really need is some 600 grit and maybe 2 hours... you don't have to remove all the basecoat.

How much reducer did you use and how heavy did you spray ? Basecoat is completely different than primer. What nozzle did you use ? I typically use a 1.3mm nozzle with my Finishline gun. Was it too cold ? I'm thinking it's below freezing this time of the year in MO .... did you say you have a heater in the garage ???

Base goes on very light, it will take 3 coats to get full coverage. It's dull, it is ugly until you spray the clear.

It really sounds like a gun setup issue, there's no way you can have THAT much dirt in the air. I've had the gun do some weird stuff when it wasn't clean enough. Did you buy one of these cleaning kits for $10 that comes with small wires to poke thru all the tiny holes in the cap ??

Go back to the store, buy 1 qt of cheap shopline paint (maybe they have something that they mixed and didn't sell)... ask for some cheap base to practice with....get your trashcan, plastic storage box, sheetmetal, sumthing and spray some base until you figured it out. Don't use cardboard as the base penetrates it too easy, it'll mask mistakes....

Shoot some base with the cheap primer gun and see if that makes a difference (1.3 - 1.5mm nozzle) - if that sprays better you know it's the other gun.

I agree with Karsten, it sounds like a gun setup problem or perhaps your technique. Putting it on too "dry", or holding the gun too far away, can give you that sort dry dusty finish. Where you've wiped the "dust" off, does it look like solid colour underneath or can you see through to the primer?

Do what Karsten says and get something to practice on mate - paint everything you can carry into your garage. You'll get it :thumbs:

Kevin... I think you're right about the overspray "dust" settling back on the fresh paint.

The paint booth has to be ventillated. A large opening at one end and an exhaust fan at the other. The large open should be covered with "cheese cloth" in order to filter the outside air that's being pulled through.

The fan will suck out the overspray. (and it will be covered with black paint and dust)

My company builds paint booths and if they're not ventilated, you're asking for trouble.

If I'm wrong, someone chime in....

If it is over spray "dust", then just tack it off and move on.

The ventilation points are valid. You have to have air flow.

If you are not confident in your gun technique, put some water in it and practice until you get your groove. You can also observe your spray pattern and adjust your gun.

Make sure you choose products that are made for air dry enviroments. They will speed your drying time and not leave the finish susceptible to contaminants as long.

It would have to be a total disaster for me to sand it off and repaint.

Good luck.

Fiberglass will become static. They have a spray for that to wipe on before you paint.

Danny

Well LOL live and learn :smash: after investigating the scene of the crime a ll better this morning,and running my hand over it again,it feels like little pebbles all over the car, so my paint was to dry wasn't it,and the over spray dried before it landed on the car.

So here is my set up,see if you guys can figure out where i went a stray.

temp in the garage was a constant 70*,i put a thermometer out there to keep track of the temp.
PPG Deltron DBC 2000 base coat,mixed 1:1 with a medium reducer.
the gun is a devilbiss DR D 1.3 tip
very well ventilated
kept the gun 6-8" away from car
PSI at gun 15PSI

All is not lost you guys are correct there,i stopped in the middle of the 2nd wet coat,applied one coat lightly,then 2 wet coats.so i still have a 1/2 gal of paint left and can buy more.
I have some 500 wet/sand paper and plan on wet sanding the surface back smooth.I guess :surrender:

Is that 15psi at the gun inlet ? With the pressure drop across the gun that would be very low (<10psi) at the cap. I use a gauge at the gun inlet at typically set it to roughly 20psi with the trigger pulled, it's a lot higher pressure when the trigger is not pulled ....

Increase pressure so you have 15-20 psi at the inlet with the trigger pulled.

... mix a little bit of base coat with reducer (1:1), 4oz each is more than enough, whatever you don't use you can pour back into the 1 gallon can... use your primer gun with a 1.4mm tip (most of these guns come with 1.4 or 1.8, 2.0) dunno what you have.... just want to see if it's better with a different gun and a slightly larger tip.

Are you using a moisture eliminator (Devilbiss dessicant snake) ??

MYBAD79 said:

Is that 15psi at the gun inlet ? With the pressure drop across the gun that would be very low (<10psi) at the cap. I use a gauge at the gun inlet at typically set it to roughly 20psi with the trigger pulled, it's a lot higher pressure when the trigger is not pulled ....

Increase pressure so you have 15-20 psi at the inlet with the trigger pulled.

... mix a little bit of base coat with reducer (1:1), 4oz each is more than enough, whatever you don't use you can pour back into the 1 gallon can... use your primer gun with a 1.4mm tip (most of these guns come with 1.4 or 1.8, 2.0) dunno what you have.... just want to see if it's better with a different gun and a slightly larger tip.

Are you using a moisture eliminator (Devilbiss dessicant snake) ??

Click to expand...

I will try my other gun and see what happens with it,and i have a moisture separator and after that the Devilbiss dessicant snake, its supposed to be back up into the 50's by Thursday,so i will back the car our and wet sand it smooth,in the mean time i have a hood that i will practice on and see if i can get it right

well i went out to the garage and grabbed some 600 grit wet sandpaper and worked on a small spot on the hood,and it sanded out smooth very easily :bouncerobably 30 seconds in 12" square area and it was as smooth as a baby butt,so i guess there is some hope here.
I will wait till thursday supposed to be in the 50's and back it out and start the wet sanding,hopefully it will not take too long and try it again.

OK so here is a question.
My gun A devilbiss Dr D HVLP says to use 29 PSI at the gun,and the paint says 12-15PSI,which one do you go by,according to the instructions with the gun and the finish i was getting is that i had the pressure set to low,all to confusing :amazed:
All i know is,is that i used this same gun to paint the jambs and the paint came out like glass :surrender:

It is possible that the nozzle is dirty, last time you used this gun you sprayed clear, right ??

The psi settings are only guidelines anyways, set it to 30psi if the gun instructions say 29 (almost 30, close enough)... spray paint on your old hood, see what works best. If it works great at 40psi then so be it... you might need less pressure for clear....

Make sure the gun is clean, poke thru all holes and let all metal parts soak in laquer thinner over night, you're screwed if there's clearcoat in there, thinner won't do much good, maybe paint stripper..... hope you don't have to go there....

I don't think you have to wetsand, 800 grit dry should be good enough.

Now, let's wait for SMYDA (or somebody else who is more experienced than I am to comment): it might be better to shoot one thin coat interstage clear over what you have - the reducer in the base coat might (not sure) soften the current base and cause problems.... not sure that you can shoot base (with reducer) over fully cured base coat...

Kevin,

Hate to hear your having problems. :crap: That a major PITA! You have more balls than me. I paid someone 200.00 to shoot my car. After buying the paint & clear, that was to much money for me to screw up. Sounds to me that reading somewhere that either you are to far away, or the air pressures off. Your cool weather probably not helping either.

One other thing. When taping up my car we used non-static paper. I didn't know there was a difference until I was told? When shooting the primer it didn't make a difference. Could that be a problem?

I think I heard Wayne say he was going to post some pics for you.:bounce: That will make you feel better!:bounce:

Some causes for dry paint

-Too much pressure for the amount of paint- adjust for more paint flow

-Too fast a reducer- use a slower drying one

-Holding the gun too far and/or not moving fast enough

-Paint too thick- add more reducer

-Not overlapping strokes enough

Buy a cheap plastic viscosity cup, a good place to start. I always liked it a little wetter than recommended.

Practice, practice, practice :sweat::sweat::sweat:

With out seeing the car in person it is tough to evaluate this situation.

Air Pressure.....your saying at the gun.....or it this at the tip?
To set the tip to 12psi on a HVLP you have to have a special tip with pressure
gauge built into it. You remove your spray tip and install the special one
....set the pressure.....then reinstall your spraying tip. These tips can be
quite pricey.

Letting the base set for several days can create it own problems.
It will have to be sanded (which your doing). You'll have to be real
careful spraying the second coat of base...if it gets a little to "wet"
it will lift the first coat and make a hell of a mess. You may need to "seal"
it before spraying the second coat.

I'm assuming your painting it "Solid Black"....no metallics or anything fancy?
Do you have complete coverage now?
If so...... sand just enough to slick it out.
When you get ready to spray the 2nd time....just lay down a light tack coat
or two. Remember you already have your coverage from the first spray
no need to paint the car again. You only need enough to give the clear
something to hold on to.

If all else fails.....load it up and haul it to T-Town, Alabama let me have it
for a couple of weeks and we'll fix it.

SMYDA said:

With out seeing the car in person it is tough to evaluate this situation.

Air Pressure.....your saying at the gun.....or it this at the tip?
To set the tip to 12psi on a HVLP you have to have a special tip with pressure
gauge built into it. You remove your spray tip and install the special one
....set the pressure.....then reinstall your spraying tip. These tips can be
quite pricey.

Letting the base set for several days can create it own problems.
It will have to be sanded (which your doing). You'll have to be real
careful spraying the second coat of base...if it gets a little to "wet"
it will lift the first coat and make a hell of a mess. You may need to "seal"
it before spraying the second coat.

I'm assuming your painting it "Solid Black"....no metallics or anything fancy?
Do you have complete coverage now?
If so...... sand just enough to slick it out.
When you get ready to spray the 2nd time....just lay down a light tack coat
or two. Remember you already have your coverage from the first spray
no need to paint the car again. You only need enough to give the clear
something to hold on to.

If all else fails.....load it up and haul it to T-Town, Alabama let me have it
for a couple of weeks and we'll fix it.

Click to expand...

I am shooting solid black,no metal flake or anything else in it,when i get it sanded out smooth,i will mask the car up and try again,but first i have a hood that i will shoot some practice coats on to make sure its doing what i want first.
i am using a medium reducer,would help me if i use a slower reducer since i am not that experienced at this??
and if all else fail i will haul this thing to Smyda and let him shoot it

Oh and yes i have complete coverage now.

How far are you from T-Town, Alabama?

saudivette said:

How far are you from T-Town, Alabama?

Click to expand...

Oh a full days drive,not sure of the actual mileage