use the a/c condenser as a tranny fluid cooler?

I tried this many years ago on the vette and the T400 all of a sudden wouldn't shift out of first. Coincidence? Maybe i got some dirt in it? Or maybe there is some problem with having a cooling sump that is too big?

This condenser on the burby has both tubes routed up high so the thing won't drain back when off. I could see pumping dry for the first minute or 2 after startup being a problem. Maybe that's what happened with the vette.

Used one on a van for over 150,000 mi with no problems. Both tubes ran over the core support. Also used a remote mount PH8 filter.

It's a old old OWLDE TYME trick of mine from decades ago, using a RAC evap or cond coil mounted in front of my rad.....for a ATF cooler....if space is not problem....like it would be now in this shark....I would use it again....

good for a 100f drop in temp....:search::1st::shocking:

mrvette said:

It's a old old OWLDE TYME trick of mine from decades ago, using a RAC evap or cond coil mounted in front of my rad.....for a ATF cooler....if space is not problem....like it would be now in this shark....I would use it again....

good for a 100f drop in temp....:search::1st::shocking:

Click to expand...

The a/c is totally shot and the condenser is there. All i have to do is cut the aluminum lines with a copper pipe cutter and hook it up.

turtlevette said:

mrvette said:

It's a old old OWLDE TYME trick of mine from decades ago, using a RAC evap or cond coil mounted in front of my rad.....for a ATF cooler....if space is not problem....like it would be now in this shark....I would use it again....

good for a 100f drop in temp....:search::1st::shocking:

Click to expand...

The a/c is totally shot and the condenser is there. All i have to do is cut the aluminum lines with a copper pipe cutter and hook it up.

Click to expand...

I would flush out any oil in there first, then route it thru the radiator cooler second stage. Trannies DO have a minimum temp to work well.

big2bird said:

turtlevette said:

mrvette said:

It's a old old OWLDE TYME trick of mine from decades ago, using a RAC evap or cond coil mounted in front of my rad.....for a ATF cooler....if space is not problem....like it would be now in this shark....I would use it again....

good for a 100f drop in temp....:search::1st::shocking:

Click to expand...

The a/c is totally shot and the condenser is there. All i have to do is cut the aluminum lines with a copper pipe cutter and hook it up.

Click to expand...

I would flush out any oil in there first, then route it thru the radiator cooler second stage. Trannies DO have a minimum temp to work well.

Click to expand...

Bird, I have heard that min temp comment a million times, I suppose I will deferr to TimAT on that one, but he better have some really good engineering backup for whatever, as my experiences say the colder the tranny the BETTER the shift, defined as length of patch and ring from driveshaft when it shifts, alway much more of both when cold as hell than hotter....for ME ......dunno why it should make any diff, but a cold tranny shifts harder...go figger, I would think the warm/hot oil would fill the clutch packs and therefore shift quicker due to be thinner...but NO,....damned if I know....

:clobbered::harhar:

transmissions definitely do have a minimum temperature requirement and having the cooling mechanism in the radiator actually heats the trans fluid when its cold......now having said that ....my barry grant 750 speed demon has no choke and it still starts and runs well when cold.....although with some feathering and love from Poppa for the first minute or two....so if you dont care about warranties and some cold weather hickups what the hell......i definitely can tell you overheating of the transmission fluid is not a good thing, and i would flush the system first and pressure check it.

i picked up a Griffin aluminum rad for the vette several years ago that doesn't have a integral cooler. I put a air finned cooler on. It never gets even luke warm because of the lockup converter. Converter slippage is what causes 99% of the heat.

I found this chart- it's somewhat like GM used in their training classes. And FWIW, if I remember correctly, that temps above 350* trans life is measured in MINUTES not miles.



I do need to also say that running too cold would be the same as running an engine too cold. Excessive wear on the bearings/bushings. There are several places in there that have either needle bearings or torringtons, along with excess clearance in the planetary gearsets. No real documentation, just old time common sense.

I did this. Works great. No problems. I still run the fluid thru the radiator, so the fluid is warmed up a bit on cold days. My tranny guy was only concerned about the pressure drop but the shifts are extremely firm and no problems.
Bee Jay