i want to make some aluminum half shafts

turtlevette

turtlevette

The Turdle
Joined
Mar 24, 2008
Messages
1,492
Location
Marshfield, MA
If i were to shorten a pair of driveshafts which would be the easiest to do.?

I don't care about strength.

There seems to be a number of different C4/C5 half shafts out there.

The easiest would be ones that use the same 1350 u joints.

I bet TT knows all this stuff off the top of his head.

or is the weight savings just not worth the expense and trouble
 
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Shorten them yourself? Do you have a lathe so you can turn down an exact length of tubing? You'll also need a fixture to set the ends exactly parallel. Then you'll also need either an ac tig or a pulsemig to weld the whole shebang back together

C5 &6 uses CV joints. C4s use 1350s on the D44, I think the D36 uses 1330s but not 100% sure.

Just get some alu ones from dennys.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
Shorten them yourself? Do you have a lathe so you can turn down an exact length of tubing? You'll also need a fixture to set the ends exactly parallel. Then you'll also need either an ac tig or a pulsemig to weld the whole shebang back together

C5 &6 uses CV joints. C4s use 1350s on the D44, I think the D36 uses 1330s but not 100% sure.

Just get some alu ones from dennys.
Click to expand...

Eh, I HOP is better.....:harhar::harhar::harhar:
 
Twin_Turbo said:
Shorten them yourself? Do you have a lathe so you can turn down an exact length of tubing? You'll also need a fixture to set the ends exactly parallel. Then you'll also need either an ac tig or a pulsemig to weld the whole shebang back together

C5 &6 uses CV joints. C4s use 1350s on the D44, I think the D36 uses 1330s but not 100% sure.

Just get some alu ones from dennys.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I would take them to a professional to have them shortened. I'm guessing about $50 each but probably double that here in Mass. I guess it's not worth it.
 
The C4 halfshafts are dirt cheap on ebay, and any driveshaft shop should be able to shorten them. That's what I'm doing on my '69.

(Just looked on ebay. There's a couple shafts available at $18 each starting bid.)
 
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I just set a C4 shaft on the scale (actually two different scales, but they agreed) and I get six and a half pounds with both u-joints. (A C3 length shaft should obviously be a touch lighter yet.) Anybody got a spare C3 shaft with u-joints (and a reasonably accurate scale) to compare with this?
 
I have a couples of 3in diameter with the joints at both end and the mating flange

one piece weight 10 pounds

Ok ok it a steel 3 in shaft not alu.
 
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turtlevette said:
6 or 7 pounds difference.

not worth the effort.

i'll concentrate on the aluminum rear and aluminum engine block instead
Click to expand...


consider a multi plate 7.25" clutch with an auto trans flexplate....you will be shocked at the difference going into and coming out of a corner...and NO scattershield necessary.....and best of all used ones are dirt cheap on ebay...just do a little homework as to disc thickness.
 
redvetracr said:
turtlevette said:
6 or 7 pounds difference.

not worth the effort.

i'll concentrate on the aluminum rear and aluminum engine block instead
Click to expand...


consider a multi plate 7.25" clutch with an auto trans flexplate....you will be shocked at the difference going into and coming out of a corner...and NO scattershield necessary.....and best of all used ones are dirt cheap on ebay...just do a little homework as to disc thickness.
Click to expand...

I saw one at the swap meet yesterday. I've seen them on race cars, but I assumed (perhaps incorrectly) that the expense of getting all the compatible parts would make it not worth it for a primarily street machine. I may just take a peek on ebay and see what's there.
(Question: Are all flexplates 168 tooth? My setup is a 153 tooth, so I'm curious how many side items would have to be changed/purchased to use this clutch.)
 
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69427 said:
redvetracr said:
turtlevette said:
6 or 7 pounds difference.

not worth the effort.

i'll concentrate on the aluminum rear and aluminum engine block instead
Click to expand...


consider a multi plate 7.25" clutch with an auto trans flexplate....you will be shocked at the difference going into and coming out of a corner...and NO scattershield necessary.....and best of all used ones are dirt cheap on ebay...just do a little homework as to disc thickness.
Click to expand...

I saw one at the swap meet yesterday. I've seen them on race cars, but I assumed (perhaps incorrectly) that the expense of getting all the compatible parts would make it not worth it for a primarily street machine. I may just take a peak on ebay and see what's there.
(Question: Are all flexplates 168 tooth? My setup is a 153 tooth, so I'm curious how many side items would have to be changed/purchased to use this clutch.)
Click to expand...

It`s a direct swap and with the reduced "moment of inertia" of a 153T flexplate it`s a better choice. all your linkage will work but I would suggest a QMI TO bearing as it has a different face angle...just make sure the floaters are all perfectly flat and the discs measure at .100 or better. I believe they are about .105 new and junk at .094 but I wouldn`t use them under .100....you will also need a clutch stop they don`t like going over center, and if you ever cut the "button" (aka flywheel) you need to maintain the .100 step. I have only used Quartermaster stuff but a Tilton or an AP is basically the same thing. The "V" drive series is also a choice for anyone on a budget. Finally, I have heard of guys driving these on the street but they don`t like to be slipped it`s basically in or out...try this link.
racingclutches.com
 
redvetracr said:
69427 said:
redvetracr said:
turtlevette said:
6 or 7 pounds difference.

not worth the effort.

i'll concentrate on the aluminum rear and aluminum engine block instead
Click to expand...


consider a multi plate 7.25" clutch with an auto trans flexplate....you will be shocked at the difference going into and coming out of a corner...and NO scattershield necessary.....and best of all used ones are dirt cheap on ebay...just do a little homework as to disc thickness.
Click to expand...

I saw one at the swap meet yesterday. I've seen them on race cars, but I assumed (perhaps incorrectly) that the expense of getting all the compatible parts would make it not worth it for a primarily street machine. I may just take a peak on ebay and see what's there.
(Question: Are all flexplates 168 tooth? My setup is a 153 tooth, so I'm curious how many side items would have to be changed/purchased to use this clutch.)
Click to expand...

It`s a direct swap and with the reduced "moment of inertia" of a 153T flexplate it`s a better choice. all your linkage will work but I would suggest a QMI TO bearing as it has a different face angle...just make sure the floaters are all perfectly flat and the discs measure at .100 or better. I believe they are about .105 new and junk at .094 but I wouldn`t use them under .100....you will also need a clutch stop they don`t like going over center, and if you ever cut the "button" (aka flywheel) you need to maintain the .100 step. I have only used Quartermaster stuff but a Tilton or an AP is basically the same thing. The "V" drive series is also a choice for anyone on a budget. Finally, I have heard of guys driving these on the street but they don`t like to be slipped it`s basically in or out...try this link.
racingclutches.com
Click to expand...

Using the same set up, it makes a huge difference getting up and out of a turn. For sure they dont like being slipped. They have lots of used ones at Muscle Car Motorsports, I just take my caliper in with me when looking for replacement disks. Most are out of a cup cars, maybe only one race. Hardest for me was getting the TO bearing just right.

Here is a drawing and at the bottom, written instruction.

http://www.stockcarproducts.com/qmtotech.htm
 
As much as I like taking weight off my car, it's still a licensed street vehicle, and I'm getting the impression that this clutch setup isn't conducive for day to day driving. I do put a lot of track miles on my car, but I still like to take the wife for a ride in it on occasion. Am I correct that this clutch is best left on the track?
 
69427 said:
As much as I like taking weight off my car, it's still a licensed street vehicle, and I'm getting the impression that this clutch setup isn't conducive for day to day driving. I do put a lot of track miles on my car, but I still like to take the wife for a ride in it on occasion. Am I correct that this clutch is best left on the track?
Click to expand...

I just went with a standard clutch along with aluminum flywheel and it made a noticable difference when shifting. Like yours mine is still a street car that only gets to the track half a dozen times a year.
 
White76 said:
69427 said:
As much as I like taking weight off my car, it's still a licensed street vehicle, and I'm getting the impression that this clutch setup isn't conducive for day to day driving. I do put a lot of track miles on my car, but I still like to take the wife for a ride in it on occasion. Am I correct that this clutch is best left on the track?
Click to expand...

I just went with a standard clutch along with aluminum flywheel and it made a noticable difference when shifting. Like yours mine is still a street car that only gets to the track half a dozen times a year.
Click to expand...

I'm presently running the lightweight factory flywheel (10 1/2" clutch), which is a bunch lighter than the original flywheel (w/11" clutch) that was in the car. Made a noticeable difference in throttle response.
 
How strong are those Denny's aluminum halfshafts? I didn't see any info like that on the webpage. How much hp/tq could they handle? Are they stronger than the Tom's 3.5" steel half shafts?
 
69427 said:
White76 said:
69427 said:
As much as I like taking weight off my car, it's still a licensed street vehicle, and I'm getting the impression that this clutch setup isn't conducive for day to day driving. I do put a lot of track miles on my car, but I still like to take the wife for a ride in it on occasion. Am I correct that this clutch is best left on the track?
Click to expand...

I just went with a standard clutch along with aluminum flywheel and it made a noticable difference when shifting. Like yours mine is still a street car that only gets to the track half a dozen times a year.
Click to expand...

I'm presently running the lightweight factory flywheel (10 1/2" clutch), which is a bunch lighter than the original flywheel (w/11" clutch) that was in the car. Made a noticeable difference in throttle response.
Click to expand...

I'm running that light flywheel too. With the standard 11", it was real prone to wanting to "run-on" after shutting the key off. And even the BB winds quicker with it.
 
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