383 stroker

Short block: 86+ (roller cam) 1pc rear main seal, bored to 4.030", 3.75" stroke forged crank, forged KB pistons with 18cc dish, Comp hydr roller cam with 230-236 dur and .510/.520 lift. I bought the short block assembled.


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Finding TDC, the pistons are .010" "in the hole", .015" was machined off the deck surface (standart deck height is 9.025", center crank to top of piston is 9.000").



Melling HV oil pump and hardened drive shaft:


Oil pan mounted with FelPro 1pc gasket, timing cover, balancer and crank pulley installed:



I cleaned and re-used my Edelbrock heads. With the 64cc chambers, the decked block and a thin (.028) head gasket the CR is close to 10:1



Heads installed with ARP bolts, water pump and pulley installed:



Intake (Edelbrock Performer) and dizzy installed:



measuring pushrod length:

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Valve cover and tranny installed:


Almost done:


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Done:

You really have some nice stuff in your car :thumbs:

Thanks. Believe me, the stuff I removed wasn't all that nice

I have only about 400 miles on the engine so I still have to baby it a little... Sunday I couldn't resist and shifted 3rd-4th at a lil over 5000rpm.... wow.... it was impressive to say the least... I'm seriously concerned about the rear end :huh::amazed:

Open it up when warm, it's broken in already. Babyin them is what makes them consume oil

V-Twin said:

Open it up when warm, it's broken in already. Babyin them is what makes them consume oil

Click to expand...

So, you are of the mind, break them in like you drive it.

How about more details on the engine such as rod length, internal/external balance, journal size on crank, etc.

glenn64vette said:

So, you are of the mind, break them in like you drive it.

Click to expand...

eh...4500 rpm, like a marine engine, at WOT....

fast as you can go, hour after hour, ignore the flashing lights.....:thumbs::cussing:

Though this is an old thread I had to ask.

I'm looking for a Melling old pump for a 383 stroker project, and not sure it it should be a standard or HV.

Is your oil pan a standard?

Isn't there a risk of sucking it dry, or am I wrong?

Just because of the thin and flimsy casing I wouldn't use a standard pump. I had photos somewhere comparing the two...

The pan is a standard pan with baffles - I have a 7Qt Milodon pan in the garage, waiting to find time to install it.

Melling has a HV pump with 25% more volume and another one that delivers 10% over stock. I currently run the Melling 55HV (25%) but I bought the 10552 and it's in the box with my new pan
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEL-10552/

When I'm done swapping the pan and pump I will have the 55HV and the pan for sale

Thanks for your reply.

I asume that you haven't had any problem with oil pan level then.
Based on your setup I will probably choose either the +10% or 25% HV Melling

My motor seals better now than it did on the first set of rings. Last time I took it easy, this time I beat the piss out of it and ran organic oil for 6 months.

1 vote for break it in hard.

I read somewhere, gun it to 4K, allow it to decelerate in gear till 2K, gun to 4K and repeat a few times to break it in.

naasaa said:

Though this is an old thread I had to ask.

I'm looking for a Melling old pump for a 383 stroker project, and not sure it it should be a standard or HV.

Is your oil pan a standard?

Isn't there a risk of sucking it dry, or am I wrong?

Click to expand...

The ONLY drawback to a HV oil pump is added load to the dizzy gear. It will eat up anything other than a GM Melonised gear.