polish and wax

Arthur Brown

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Dec 5, 2008
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229
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usa
The polish and wax products at the part store seem to be formulated for modern base and clear coat paint. It says "clear coat safe" on the bottle.
Can I use these products ? I think the paint on the C3 is enamel or laquer, it's not basecoat and clearcoat.
The guy at Auto Zone did not know .
 
Check the manufacture's website for the best results. I would think that any paint wax safe for a clearcoat would work on anything older.
 
I use Meguiar's (which 3m owns now) and was told that it will work on both types of paint. The name is Meguiar's nxt generation tech wax.

Danny
 
The way that I understand polishes is that polishes will work the same way on laquer based as it does on clear coat. That means a small portion of the top layer will be removed. So you need to be carefull with polishes regardless of what the finish is.

As far as wax, I think it is ok to choose your favorite. I used a cheap liquid wax on the vette's original paint. I think it was turtle wax. Worked just great. Turned my 40 footer into a 38 footer.:rofl:

I personally like the carnuba based wax.
 
BB's right, polishes have cutting agents in them and produce shine by improving the light reflection off the surface. They do this by lightly removing the damaged top surface, smoothing it,, to improve the refraction of light. Like removing a film off a mirror. Its not a bad thing to do. Most of the time, its necessary to get a deeper shine.

Most polishes dont offer protection and need to be followed up with a pure wax product or poly product for UV protection. Some polishes now contain poly for protection.

Most wax products are cleaner/wax and also contain cleaning agents, like petroleum products and fine abrasives that will remove paint. They do this to increase the shine and make it easier to use. The secret is to remove just enough environmental damage and swirl marks to produce the shine you are looking for.

What removes your wax the fastest is what kind of soap you use and how much pressure you use while washing it and drying it off, plus the item, rag, sponge. If the soap you use will remove grease, it will cut the wax off.

Best thing is to do your own research on the products you are going to use

Had a small polish and wash company named Nortech System. We sold a complete line of detailing products and private labeled for other companies in the late 80's and 90's my exwife ended up with it. No longer in business. The products where sold at one time thru JC Withney,, End of story,, cant believe I just talked about wax and soap again. First time in ten years.. Have nothing else to say about this story. :rain:

Wow! A lot of good info there!

I have a weekend detailing business. Been detailing cars for about 30 years.

Any polish/wax product you buy at an auto parts store should work fine on your original paint.

To get the most out of your paint, you should claybar, polish, and wax.

The are some "All-In-One" products out there that do a good job. I use Zaino All-In-One, but it's only available on-line.

Mothers Cleaner Wax is good and you can buy it at any auto parts store. Meguiar's FX is also very good. It's a synthetic and will last longer than the Mother's, which is carnuba based.
 
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Thank you for the help. After reading the replies here I decided to use clay bar and wax, no polish. I am afraid the polish could be making thr paint dull. I called a local body shop and asked about polishing enamel paint, that guy said to be careful with the polish as the modern polish products are designed for clearcoat that is a lot tougher than the soft enamel. The clay bar cleans but does not scratch. Does this make sense ? Do you agree with this approach ?
 
Thank you for the help. After reading the replies here I decided to use clay bar and wax, no polish. I am afraid the polish could be making thr paint dull. I called a local body shop and asked about polishing enamel paint, that guy said to be careful with the polish as the modern polish products are designed for clearcoat that is a lot tougher than the soft enamel. The clay bar cleans but does not scratch. Does this make sense ? Do you agree with this approach ?

Definitely use the clay bar. Before you do an area, run your hand across it and feel all the grit. Then wipe your hand across after...big difference. Then a nice wax and you'll be happy.

Although I agree that you need to be careful with the polish, there are modern polishes which are very mild abrasive and can be used because they don't cut. Here is one from wolfgang. I'm not an expert or bodyshop...just a Saturday buff.:D

http://autogeek.net/wg2000.html
 
Thank you for the help. After reading the replies here I decided to use clay bar and wax, no polish. I am afraid the polish could be making thr paint dull. I called a local body shop and asked about polishing enamel paint, that guy said to be careful with the polish as the modern polish products are designed for clearcoat that is a lot tougher than the soft enamel. The clay bar cleans but does not scratch. Does this make sense ? Do you agree with this approach ?

Yes, that approach will work. I don't agree that polishing enamel will make it dull. I've polished lots of old Vettes with original paint. I use a very light cut polish and finishing pad with a Porter-Cable 7424 polisher on speed 6.

You do have to be very careful. Old single stage enamel is not like Base/Clear. It's fragile and it tends to oxidize quickly. If you cut too much, you're through to the primer... then you're screwed.

Wax will make it "shinier", but not as shiney as polish followed by wax.

Claybar will make the paint surface "slick". It removes imbedded contaminants in the paint. It will not make the paint shine, but won't scratch it either.

Here are some pointers on claybar:
... Break the bar into 3 or 4 pieces.
... if you drop one, throw it away!
... use lots of lubricant
... Rub the bar across the paint until it doesn't "drag".
 
Thank you for the help. After reading the replies here I decided to use clay bar and wax, no polish. I am afraid the polish could be making thr paint dull. I called a local body shop and asked about polishing enamel paint, that guy said to be careful with the polish as the modern polish products are designed for clearcoat that is a lot tougher than the soft enamel. The clay bar cleans but does not scratch. Does this make sense ? Do you agree with this approach ?

Yes, that approach will work. I don't agree that polishing enamel will make it dull. I've polished lots of old Vettes with original paint. I use a very light cut polish and finishing pad with a Porter-Cable 7424 polisher on speed 6.

You do have to be very careful. Old single stage enamel is not like Base/Clear. It's fragile and it tends to oxidize quickly. If you cut too much, you're through to the primer... then you're screwed.

Wax will make it "shinier", but not as shiney as polish followed by wax.

Claybar will make the paint surface "slick". It removes imbedded contaminants in the paint. It will not make the paint shine, but won't scratch it either.

Here are some pointers on claybar:
... Break the bar into 3 or 4 pieces.
... if you drop one, throw it away!
... use lots of lubricant
... Rub the bar across the paint until it doesn't "drag".

C3's are not enamel unless they were repainted. They are acrylic lacquer from the factory.


Danny
 
I used a Clay Bar and I never expected it to remove so much dirt. I bought a white Meguiar's ClayBar kit and had to go back to the store to buy another one. It was black and used up before I finished the car.
I then used Meguiars NXT generation wax. I am impressed.
 
C3's are not enamel unless they were repainted. They are acrylic lacquer from the factory.


Danny

For the most part that is true.
St Louis 81 models are Lacquer, Bowling Green 81's and all '82's are Enamel/Clear Coat
 
I used a Clay Bar and I never expected it to remove so much dirt. I bought a white Meguiar's ClayBar kit and had to go back to the store to buy another one. It was black and used up before I finished the car.
I then used Meguiars NXT generation wax. I am impressed.

Clay bar is pretty good stuff...you think the paint is clean until you use it.
 
I used a Clay Bar and I never expected it to remove so much dirt. I bought a white Meguiar's ClayBar kit and had to go back to the store to buy another one. It was black and used up before I finished the car.
I then used Meguiars NXT generation wax. I am impressed.

Clay bar is pretty good stuff...you think the paint is clean until you use it.

I am amazed every time I use clay bar. I usually do the Vette once a year, during the winter. Makes the paint incredibly SLICK!

Try the "sandwich bag" test. Put your hand in a sandwich bag and run your fingers across a portion of the paint that has NOT been clayed.

Then do it again after clay... amazing difference.

(The plastic magnifies the "grit".):idea:
 
I used a Clay Bar and I never expected it to remove so much dirt. I bought a white Meguiar's ClayBar kit and had to go back to the store to buy another one. It was black and used up before I finished the car.
I then used Meguiars NXT generation wax. I am impressed.

I know, good stuff. :waxer:

Danny
 
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