Let the winter re paint begin

kwplot34

kwplot34

Heart Attack
Joined
Mar 24, 2008
Messages
2,373
Location
Liberty,Mo
First things first,i must get the old paint sanded down,not to the gel coat but the shine knocked off chips and scratches feathered out. What Grit of sand paper should i start with?? I ordered the 7 piece durablocks and rolls of paper ranging from 80-400.

As i get the car sanded down i will post pics of any damaged areas to get advice on how to fix them, ex. the body seams on the fenders.
 
MORE balls than this little chicken shit.....I really would LOVE to redo my car, just don't have the body, skeleton, money...etc...

I want to paint it like a shark show car from the early 60's.....

white/yel/grn/lt.blu/blu/dkblu/near black on top....fade from color to color of course in urethane metallic....

:gurney::drink:

Enjoy your labor, wish I had your skeleton....

trade you....

:bomb::3rd:
 
What's the old paint ?? if it's already base/clear you only have to scuff the clear, if it's old laquer you better get all of that stuff off before you spray urethane.....
 
MYBAD79 said:
What's the old paint ?? if it's already base/clear you only have to scuff the clear, if it's old laquer you better get all of that stuff off before you spray urethane.....
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Now thats interesting,because i have been told several times since it is the original paint on there that i do not need to take it all the way down :confused2:
now i'm really lost,i will be going back with a base/clear.
 
BEFORE you start sanding, wash it with some dishwashing soap to remove any oils, then wipe it down with wax and grease remover. No sense grinding any silicone or oil into the paint that you'll have to get off later.

I'd start with 120 and just scuff the heck out of it. You'll probably use a sealer anyway and if that is original paint all you need is to get it stuck.
 
Thats what i had in mind Tim,was to scuff the heck out of it fix paint chips,and cracks,and then use a sealer and then epoxy primer over that. The paint stripper that reminds me i forgot to order that,but i bet i can run over to that paint store in Gladstone and get some.
 
Carrell Brothers Color- on North Oak. Go in there and tell Henry, Keith or Lynn that I sent you. They'll either throw you out or give you some good advice..
 
TimAT said:
Carrell Brothers Color- on North Oak. Go in there and tell Henry, Keith or Lynn that I sent you. They'll either throw you out or give you some good advice..
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Which one is least likely to through me out :lol:
 
Purchased some filler for the cracks in the body seams today,will this work ok
thum_384906397ecd02e.jpg

And got this for hopefully some good reading,got it from a place called
Mid-life-crisis :bonkers:
thum_3849063981619c9.jpg
 
IMGP1614.jpg


Go for it Kev. Post loads of pics as you go... :thumbs:
 
saudivette said:
BRUTAL64 said:
Bare foot rockers???????????:drink:
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Yeah, too hot out here for shoes :p

I mainly posted it for the pic of what's on the drums. Oh, and that magnificent painting in the background...
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I see that on the drum :amazed: thats funny,so i guess we all go through it :skeptic:
And i will post lots of pics as i go so everybody can learn from my mistakes :quote:
 
Lots of people swear that you need to remove all of the laquer paint. If you seal it with epoxy, I don't see the need for it. I've never heard any horror stories or actual experience, just lots and lots of hear say. I've even read in hot rod that painting over the original paint is fine, if you're positive that it's the original paint.

I took off all of the laquer paint, well damn near all of it. But I left spots of primer. Sanding will reveal low spots in the body, and if you try to get rid of every last bit of factory primer with a block, you'll start to see fibers show in the body. IMO, once you see fibers, stop! And leave the spots of primer alone, with so much of the body exposed I don't anticipate adhesion problems or chemicals bleeding through. Especially with an epoxy sealer on there.

By the way, I keep hearing people refer to a gel coat... I never saw a gel coat anywhere on the body. There was a gel coat on my aftermarket fiberglass bumpers, but not on the body.
 
The paint on my car is so thin that i think you could get it all off in a day with 1000 grit paper :amazed: but to get it done much sooner i will be using 180 :bounce: I have quite a few places that the primer is actually showing through,the original owner must have ran this car through a car wash with brushes at least once a week and then buffed it,oh well it makes my job much easier :thumbs:
 
180 will take forever. I'd use 100 or even 80. I used 100, 80, and 60 an a DA. If you're going to block it even with 100 it will be so straight you won't need surfacer.
 
If you use single stage enamel you might be able to leave the old paint alone... the previous owner of my '79 had a shop (Maaco) shoot it red enamel over old black paint (whatever they used in '79)... it did not crack or anything, it just faded badly.....

I was told that epoxy and urethane materials can cause the old single stage paint to soften and/or lift. I would not want to take the risk, too much work stripping it after you wasted new paint.....

Take a rag with lacquer thinner and let it sit on one panel, see if the paint is getting soft.
 
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