Looking at buying a C3! What do i need to know?

SCCA VETTE

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
206
Location
Kokomo IN
Well the C4 is pretty much done minus a few minor things. We have decided to buya C3 as the next project. This will be a driver (ok maybe a couple auto-X) that will be basically stock with maybe a few cosmetic changes to give it a pro touring look.

I am pretty up to date on what to look for when buying a C4 however not so much on a C3. I have seen ALOT of C3's around here that are sitting in peoples back yards and going to start knocking on some doors. I would love to have a chrome bumper car however it will most likely be a 75 - 80 model.

Thanks in advance for any help.
Phil
 
I see you are in Kokomo. I understand what you mean when you say there are a lot of C3's around. I was driving up to South Bend a couple of years ago and I'll bet I saw 5 C3's for sale on the way.

I would look for the most solid car you can find. Nice frame, solid birdcage. Or, you might consider building a rolling chassis and then finding a body for it in the meantime. That's the route I would go if I were doing this again.

It is remarkable what you did with the C4. I'm sure the C3 you build will be impressive as well.


.
 
I would not buy any vette that was not a convertible....so that means up to '75 in the shark years....

Rust on the frame from seats back and of course windshile bow down the A pillar, and if a Ttop....that bar going to the back hoop and the hoop also....

brakes are a issue, other than that, well, like any other vette/old car....:smash:
 
I see you are in Kokomo. I understand what you mean when you say there are a lot of C3's around. I was driving up to South Bend a couple of years ago and I'll bet I saw 5 C3's for sale on the way.

I would look for the most solid car you can find. Nice frame, solid birdcage. Or, you might consider building a rolling chassis and then finding a body for it in the meantime. That's the route I would go if I were doing this again.

It is remarkable what you did with the C4. I'm sure the C3 you build will be impressive as well.


.

BBSHARK Thank you for the complement!

There seem to be a lot around here and just sitting in people's yards. I figured the frame would be a big issue. Where are the common problems areas to look at the frame?
 
I would not buy any vette that was not a convertible....so that means up to '75 in the shark years....

Rust on the frame from seats back and of course windshile bow down the A pillar, and if a Ttop....that bar going to the back hoop and the hoop also....

brakes are a issue, other than that, well, like any other vette/old car....:smash:


That gives me a good idea of where to look.

I really do not want a vert. I have never been fond of them due to I feel unsafe. I know this seems stupid considering a t-top car is not much if any safer.
 
I would not buy any vette that was not a convertible....so that means up to '75 in the shark years....

Rust on the frame from seats back and of course windshile bow down the A pillar, and if a Ttop....that bar going to the back hoop and the hoop also....

brakes are a issue, other than that, well, like any other vette/old car....:smash:


That gives me a good idea of where to look.

I really do not want a vert. I have never been fond of them due to I feel unsafe. I know this seems stupid considering a t-top car is not much if any safer.

I figger it's all psych man.....anyway, the part where the frame kicks up over the rear wheels, and it's also where the T-arms are bolted in....the Tarms rust up north, mine had to be replaced....my frame made it south in one piece though....you need look VERY carefully on a lift and get a 'angle pick' and a screwdriver to poke around with shine a light really good up into the frame areas....pay attention to the TOP of the frame.....the #4 body mounts which are on top behind the rear wheels, are famous for rusting out the steel cups which are riveted to the body...a bitch to change...PIA....but doo able without pulling the body off....

pull the kick panels, and look for flakey rust from the w/s pillars in there....also for any rust....you need look at the interior really well....squeeze the top/side trim pieces....tap on them, see if any flakey rust comes out.....if necessary you need remove them for body examination....owner won't let you, pass on the deal.....look at the w/s pillar realy well around that VIN# on both sides....you can spot rust really well that a ways.....the chrome up top tends to gather dirt/water in there next to the frame steel.....obviously toasting it quickly....which is why MY car had me pull the chrome and wrap that whole mess in vinyl for the top seals on the front bow, and then I used some 3-4 tubes of black RTV to totally seal the glass/frame/fenders tighter than whale pussy, and that's waterproof.....

Front cross supports under the radiator rust along with the rad support itself....
the stamped beam under the body, just under the part in front of the hood, tends to come unglued due to rust....or in a early shark....the aluminum rivets expand/corrode under the glass and you get bumps on the surface....

I a have never bothered to pull the body off the frame....but have on some other sharks....

:crap::quote:
 
Top