Dynamat

big2bird

Charter Member, Founder Bird-Run, Cruise-In Bird-R
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I know this subject has been beat to death, but anybody have any tips? Color me old, but I bought a $200 case of Dynamat extreme, and a new carpet kit to go with it. I'm tired of the heat/noise BS.
Pretty straight forward or what? I just intend on ripping out the old carpet, a little wire wheel and vacuuming. Laying down the Dynamat, then using the 3M spray adhesive on the carpet. That it?
 
That's pretty much it, did your kit come with the roller ? I don't believe you really have to spend $25 for the "one and only" Dynamat approved roller but without a roller it might be difficult to get it to adhere properly, especially in corners.

Be careful, that stuff has some sharp edges, cuts a little deeper than a papercut....

Use aluminum tape for the gaps.

Use a good mask when you spray that 3M adhesive inside the car, it'll feel a little sticky inside your nose and god knows what it does to your mouth and lounges...nasty stuff.... don't buy the professional or heavy duty version, the regular general purpose adhesive is just fine, sticks like crazy and dries quick....

Report back how much of an improvement it is, I might order that Dynamat stuff too..... I need like 10lbs in each door because of my sidepipes :nuts:
 
That's pretty much it, did your kit come with the roller ? I don't believe you really have to spend $25 for the "one and only" Dynamat approved roller but without a roller it might be difficult to get it to adhere properly, especially in corners.

Be careful, that stuff has some sharp edges, cuts a little deeper than a papercut....

Use aluminum tape for the gaps.

Use a good mask when you spray that 3M adhesive inside the car, it'll feel a little sticky inside your nose and god knows what it does to your mouth and lounges...nasty stuff.... don't buy the professional or heavy duty version, the regular general purpose adhesive is just fine, sticks like crazy and dries quick....

Report back how much of an improvement it is, I might order that Dynamat stuff too..... I need like 10lbs in each door because of my sidepipes :nuts:

I have been ever much more concerned with insulation than noise...so have never bothered much more than some fiberglass and then a layer of foam/foil then the carpeting....I feel that cutting those silly loops outta the cross support that allows lowering the exhaust an extra inch is a huge improvement in flooring heat, anyway....
 
This is something I have been looking at doing over the winter. I'm not sure what I am going to go with. I have heard how to make the lizard skin for a fraction of the price. The only problem with it is I know dynamat works and I am not sure about the lizard skin. :hunter:

EDIT>>>>Whoops forgot about the question…..Bird the only advice I could give is be sure to roll it down well and then roll it some more.
 
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That's pretty much it, did your kit come with the roller ? I don't believe you really have to spend $25 for the "one and only" Dynamat approved roller but without a roller it might be difficult to get it to adhere properly, especially in corners.


Report back how much of an improvement it is, I might order that Dynamat stuff too..... I need like 10lbs in each door because of my sidepipes :nuts:

When I visited the shop that painted my car, they were putting that stuff on the interior of a frame off. They were not using a roller that I could tell. Looked almost like a large lightweight hammer/mallet. It was on a metal car.
 
I know this subject has been beat to death, but anybody have any tips? Color me old, but I bought a $200 case of Dynamat extreme, and a new carpet kit to go with it.
Wow! You are old! That "color me" stuff is straight from the '60s. :lol:
 
Yep. I'm an old soul allright. Thanks for the tips. I have some old rollers from my darkroom days. I'll dig them out.
Now I just need a weekend off before it gets too cool.
 
The roller is called a "brayer". I guess braying is rolling:lol:

The only thing I have ever heard is that you don't want to build up too much thickness on side (like the sides of the foot well), because preformed carpeting will not fit down in the well.
 
The only thing I have ever heard is that you don't want to build up too much thickness on side (like the sides of the foot well), because preformed carpeting will not fit down in the well.

This has been my concern as well. Should I remove the stock jute backing from the carpet? I don't see the need with the Dynamat. Is spray adhesive really necessary on the floor pans?
 
You just paid for the name dynamat. :) They are the most expensive out there. There are other brands with similar (if not the same) products for quite a bit less.
Spray adhesive? it should come with an adhesive backing, peel & stick. If you cover large sections, do not remove the blue backing at once, do it in sections and roll the dynamat in place while you're working your way down the peeled off section, then peel off some more and keep rolling until done. It's really pretty simple.
 
The only thing I have ever heard is that you don't want to build up too much thickness on side (like the sides of the foot well), because preformed carpeting will not fit down in the well.

This has been my concern as well. Should I remove the stock jute backing from the carpet? I don't see the need with the Dynamat. Is spray adhesive really necessary on the floor pans?

There is no need to remove the jute backing. I laid thick insulation on my floor under the stock jute padding. (much thicker than dynamat) The carpet still fit well and now I am cool as a cucumber in the hottest days. I might add bending the petal out away from the tranny tunnel is a good idea. Several people I have talked to say with a floor mat in, the petal can get wedged at full throttle. Can you guess why I questioned other people :cussing:
 
I might add bending the petal out away from the tranny tunnel is a good idea. Several people I have talked to say with a floor mat in, the petal can get wedged at full throttle. Can you guess why I questioned other people :cussing:

Thanks. That's a good safety tip.:eek:
 
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