Any preference between mild steel and stainless brake lines

73 Mike

73 Mike

I'll drive it someday
Joined
Mar 30, 2008
Messages
714
Location
Boston, MA
A number of my fittings look like they are round rather than fittings. Given the number of other brake system issues that I'm having, I think I'm just going to change all of the lines. There are a couple of places that I've found where the lines have been distorted and I simply can't be sure if these are the cause of the flow restriction that I'm seeing.

Out of habbit, I've always replaced lines with stainless so I don't have to do it again, but I do notice that you have to tighten these more to achieve a good seal.

Any suggestions one way or another? The small difference in cost doesn't bother me but leaks do.
 
Last edited:
73 Mike said:
A number of my fittings look like they are round rather than fittings. Given the number of other brake system issues that I'm having, I think I'm just going to change all of the lines. There are a couple of places that I've found where the lines have been distorted and I simply can't be sure if these are the cause of the flow restriction that I'm seeing.

Out of habbit, I've always replaced lines with stainless so I don't have to do it again, but I do notice that you have to tighten these more to acheive a cood seal.

Any suggestions one way or another? The small difference in cost doesn't bother me but leaks do.
Click to expand...

Mike. I can see the guys back east with lot's of road salt using SS, but out here, mild steel is fine, and infinetely easier to work with.;)
 
I bought stainless lines for my vette. They fit so bad that I ended up just buying regular steel lines. I am going to paint them so they don't rust on the outside. I suggest the steel ones.
 
I bought stainless brake lines and the fit was good. I suppose it depends on who makes them.

I did change all the distribution blocks. They don't seal very well with new tubes and they are not that expensive.
 
The only line I had to change on this '72 is the rear feed line, AFAIK all the others are OEM, sure look like it....but not rusted so far....

I used two lengths of steel off a parts house, and stuck a flare union in the middle there somewhere....it's all been fine for some 6? years now....

when the OEM lines lasted 30 years, I figger most of them still on the car, the RUBBER lines replace probably 5-6 times in there, I figger WTF I going to order custom stainless then wait for??? so parts house and ten bux, and on the car already yet, even.....:crutches::crutches::D:waxer: that way I can drive it again.....:hi:
 
I bought the SS line kit from MidAmerica in 2004, new blocks and so on.... no problems whatsoever... fit was good and the lines are still as shiny as on day one.... no leaks (except one leak on the AZ calipper)....

The ONLY issue I had with them was that they bent the line to fit it in the box...sortof defeats the purpose of buying a pre-bend kit ...LOL

BTW, all brake lines can be replaced with the body in place. Use good tall jackstands and you'll be almost comfy under there....most books say that you must lift the body....
 
How often do you replace your brake fluid? Brake fluid collects moister unless you run silicon fluid then the moister just finds a high point in the system to sit. Many brake lines rust from the inside out. They may look good on the outside but be rusty on the inside. For that reason I would go with stainless. Replace the distribution blocks as mentioned before at the same time because they are softer then the lines and will somewhat form around the flair to form a seal. When you remove the lines look in the blocks and you will see what I am talking about.
 
Fuelie74 said:
How often do you replace your brake fluid? Brake fluid collects moister unless you run silicon fluid then the moister just finds a high point in the system to sit. Many brake lines rust from the inside out. They may look good on the outside but be rusty on the inside. For that reason I would go with stainless. Replace the distribution blocks as mentioned before at the same time because they are softer then the lines and will somewhat form around the flair to form a seal. When you remove the lines look in the blocks and you will see what I am talking about.
Click to expand...

Yeh, I hear you but 15 years ago when changing to silicone fluid, I looked for rust anywhere but found only in the dark fluid.....

later on some drops found in the calipers as water sinks to the bottom being heavier than oil/silicone brake fluid.....lines still clean inside....

BTW, I just cleaned them with carb cleaner and air jet to flush out crap....

the ONLY rust I have found on any OEM lines on the car was the main line to the rear, replaced it with parts house lengths, and it's fine....
 
I'm with the Bird- in your part of town there's not much reason to spend the extra $$ for SS lines. But clean and paint them so they don't rust on the outside.
 
TimAT said:
I'm with the Bird- in your part of town there's not much reason to spend the extra $$ for SS lines. But clean and paint them so they don't rust on the outside.
Click to expand...

Or powder coat them,it looks good and will last.
Just make sure to pc them after you have them cut and bent,do not pc them then cut and bend :banghead: it does not work out so well :noob:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top