New Dart Shp Block (pics)

CNC BLOCKS

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May 13, 2008
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Finally got one of the new SHP block in from Dart, So far I have measured the lifter bores and they measure .8443 no taper, The center main cap came with no washer under the head of the bolt. I disassembled the mains caps cleaned caps and hardware and relubed the washers and the bolts with CMD-3 and retorqued and the rear main cap was 2.6407 the 3 center caps were 2.641 and front cap is 2.6408 as this will have to be addressed with a line hone.

I noticed the freeze plug holes on the sides of the blocks are chamfered and the freeze plug holes in the front and rear and cam plug are not chamfered.

It does look like the cam tunnel can be machined for BBC and 50MM cam tunnel with no issues.
DARTSHPBLOCK001.jpg

Pic of the front of the block and the main caps, 7/16 bolts down the center and the outter bolts on the splayed caps are 3/8
DARTSHPBLOCK004.jpg
Just under the oil filter pad can be drilled and taped to 3/8 and dry sumped in this area.
DARTSHPBLOCK005.jpg
Pic of the lifter galley as it shows it set up for factory roller lifters.
DARTSHPBLOCK006.jpg
Pic of the oil pan side of the block and it has been stroker clearanced.
DARTSHPBLOCK007.jpg

I will have this block in the CNC machine Friday to probe the block out for blue print locations and I will post what I find later in the day. Carl

So far it looks to be a clean peice and I noticed the water jackets are clean compared to the Little-M blocks that always seems to be full of shavings and trash!!

Its sure better then any of the GM OEM blocks we have bought lately and far better then any 400 block ever built. LOL

This block is about 500 to 600 dollars chaeper then a Dart Sportsman block.
 
THAT is so pretty it's a shame to bolt it into my olde rat rod....

:bounce::bump::surrender:
 
I got the answer to the secret question right so it's mine, I'm sending him my address info as we speak :hi: :1st:
 
"This block is about 500 to 600 dollars chaeper then a Dart Sportsman block."


WHY? ...what makes the other DART LITTLE M block config worth that $500-$600 more and what did they leave off to make this block worth or at least cost that much less? whats the max bore size? and minimum deck and cylinder wall thickness
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"This block is about 500 to 600 dollars chaeper then a Dart Sportsman block."


WHY? ...what makes the other DART LITTLE M block config worth that $500-$600 more and what did they leave off to make this block worth or at least cost that much less? whats the max bore size? and minimum deck and cylinder wall thickness
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Less machine is involved with this block, less nickel content and that is a picey heavy metal, max bore size is 4.165 and .230 should be the appox. thickness at that bore size. The deck is .625 thick and the bolt holes are blind as well.
 
"This block is about 500 to 600 dollars chaeper then a Dart Sportsman block."


WHY? ...what makes the other DART LITTLE M block config worth that $500-$600 more and what did they leave off to make this block worth or at least cost that much less? whats the max bore size? and minimum deck and cylinder wall thickness
__________________

Less machine is involved with this block, less nickel content and that is a picey heavy metal, max bore size is 4.165 and .230 should be the appox. thickness at that bore size. The deck is .625 thick and the bolt holes are blind as well.


I used to deal with Dart stuff in the 80's. Is there quality, now, the same-worst-better than World products?

Thanks for the info you have posted/posting here. It will be of great help for me/us in the future.:bounce:
 
"This block is about 500 to 600 dollars chaeper then a Dart Sportsman block."


WHY? ...what makes the other DART LITTLE M block config worth that $500-$600 more and what did they leave off to make this block worth or at least cost that much less? whats the max bore size? and minimum deck and cylinder wall thickness
__________________

Less machine is involved with this block, less nickel content and that is a picey heavy metal, max bore size is 4.165 and .230 should be the appox. thickness at that bore size. The deck is .625 thick and the bolt holes are blind as well.


I used to deal with Dart stuff in the 80's. Is there quality, now, the same-worst-better than World products?

Thanks for the info you have posted/posting here. It will be of great help for me/us in the future.:bounce:

We use to deal with World a few years ago and the last block we got from them was filled to the freeze plugs with epoxy and they would not take it back and the customer did not want it either so we sold it at cost and got him a Dart and never looked back,

The cam tunnels in the World block are like the GM OEM block 3 different cam bearings and they have some issues in that area.
 
"This block is about 500 to 600 dollars chaeper then a Dart Sportsman block."


WHY? ...what makes the other DART LITTLE M block config worth that $500-$600 more and what did they leave off to make this block worth or at least cost that much less? whats the max bore size? and minimum deck and cylinder wall thickness
__________________

Less machine is involved with this block, less nickel content and that is a picey heavy metal, max bore size is 4.165 and .230 should be the appox. thickness at that bore size. The deck is .625 thick and the bolt holes are blind as well.

That's a shame. I would think one of the desirable factors of an aftermarket block would be 5% nickel like the old HP blocks.
 
"This block is about 500 to 600 dollars chaeper then a Dart Sportsman block."


WHY? ...what makes the other DART LITTLE M block config worth that $500-$600 more and what did they leave off to make this block worth or at least cost that much less? whats the max bore size? and minimum deck and cylinder wall thickness
__________________

Less machine is involved with this block, less nickel content and that is a picey heavy metal, max bore size is 4.165 and .230 should be the appox. thickness at that bore size. The deck is .625 thick and the bolt holes are blind as well.


I used to deal with Dart stuff in the 80's. Is there quality, now, the same-worst-better than World products?

Thanks for the info you have posted/posting here. It will be of great help for me/us in the future.:bounce:

We use to deal with World a few years ago and the last block we got from them was filled to the freeze plugs with epoxy and they would not take it back and the customer did not want it either so we sold it at cost and got him a Dart and never looked back,

The cam tunnels in the World block are like the GM OEM block 3 different cam bearings and they have some issues in that area.


So at this time the Dart blocks are the way to go. Well, you are the second shope to tell me this. :drink:
 
We I probed the SHP block out today and I was very pleased with the lifter bore locations and the cylinder in X-location which is from front to rear were with in .001

Now the cylinders in Y-locations which is intake to exhaust we found the cylinders on the odd side to #1 was .003 out of location and cylinders #3#5#7 were .004 out.

Now cylinders #2 #4 were out of location .007 #6 was .006 and #8 was .005 out of location.

Compared to an 010 block where the worst one we have seen was .032 out of location this Dart block is a good peice.

The deck on the odd side the high measurement was 9.0259 and lowest measure was 9.0224 which is .0035 differance

The deck on the even side the high measure ment was 9.0282 and the lowest measurement was 9.0230 which is .0052

From front to rear both decks we with in .0006

Now the Ed from Edvanced engines claims the Dart blocks he buys from Dart are with in .0002 from side to side heres the link on this http://forums.racingjunk.com/viewtopic.php?t=5704&highlight= and Ed has no equipment to do his work with and I wonder how he is measuring this??? any how.

Before any one gets say anything I ask Dick at the PRI-SHOW who runs Darts machine shop about the locations being off a little and his comment was we ROUGH machine 150 blocks a week and its up to the engine builder to make sure its finished machined to blue print, If a customer wanted a blue printed block they could surely machine one but it would surely cost some extra money.

Also the cam tunnel placement was good as well.

All in all the SHP block is great foundation to start with, I was very pleased with my findings today and all we will do is dial the block in just a little closer. Compared to the 400 and 350 OEM blocks we have seen over the years the SHP block is a great peice and I can see just using a block like this you can make more power over a stock GM block. Carl
 
All in all the SHP block is great foundation to start with, I was very pleased with my findings today and all we will do is dial the block in just a little closer.

What happens after a few hot/cool cycles, won't that screw up all the precision measurements?
 
All in all the SHP block is great foundation to start with, I was very pleased with my findings today and all we will do is dial the block in just a little closer.

What happens after a few hot/cool cycles, won't that screw up all the precision measurements?


I asked Dart and GM about that at the Pri Show years ago and that is not an issue using a green block as that aging process is built into the castings now.

We use a lot of new blocks and so far no issues with the castings moving.
 
I'm kind of on the other side of the fence. I have the Motown 434 ci with the smaller 350 main journal size. I have got to look over the Dart little M's and motown has a very good revised oiling system and the closed lifter valley prevents the central oil splash. I will say the Dart raised cam block is a good option.

Actually I would not recommend an iron block to any friend. Aluminum is repairable. When you are talking $10k - $12K motors anyway what is another couple thousand.

I just had mine apart after an SCCa race a couple of weeks ago. Motown 434 with valley vent tubes, Dart 227 cc ported heads, titanium intakes, and .685/.714 lift using an endurance road racing profile solid roller 4/7 swap

valleyvents.jpg
 
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