My DD Alero shot craps...need some help

Bullshark

Bullshark

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Joined
Mar 23, 2008
Messages
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Location
St. Charles, Missouri
Hey guys, my in dash ignition switch on the 2001 Alero won't turn on. It's like I have the wrong key, but not the case. If anyone thinks they can help please take a look at the following forum thread. Not getting much help over there.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=908087


Also, while trying to remove the switch, I unplugged the radio before I unhooked the battery. From what I have read, that probably disabled the radio due to security system. How do I recover from this bubba move?:suicide:

Thanks

Bullshark
 
Connect the radio to the battery and see if the security system is actually enabled.... you have to set it first as far as I know, if it is locked the dealer can unlock it for you.

I have replaced the ignition switch on a VW once, it was no fun. They used special "security" bolts: the head snaps off at a specific torque... that way you can't just unbolt and remove the ignition switch and steering wheel lock.... hope you don't have to remove the entire thing like I had to.

If I remember right you need a working key to remove the lock/switch, I had to drill it out because the key broke.... :sick:
 
Thanks MyBad
I was afraid I was going to have to get the damn dealer involved to fix the radio. I had to tear darn near the whole front dash out just to get to the switch. From what I read, there is a key learn procedure that can be done without the dealer's Tech II. I was hoping I could figure a way of getting the old key cylinder out and get a new cylinder and key without having to by the whole switch assembly ($200+) How do you think I should approach drilling the cylinder out?

Bullshark
 
Eh, before the engine went, maybe 2-3? years ago the '99 Escort had some ignition sw related problem, note the switch made in JAPAN.....so I removed it, and found out how it worked and what was messing up, and removed all the silly levers and associated BS....switch worked fine....

but wouldn't you know, about 6 months later the shifter would NOT get out of park,.....wife finally got it to engage and got home with it....about 5 minits ahead of the hook...got lucky.....took the console apart, noted the little Jap junk construction in it...plastic and more levers than Lever Bros....

kinda as bad as a old automatic record changer, so that job site humor goes back a few decades....:eek:

anyway, a few well placed sheetrock screws in there to block the levers from locking the shifter.....

CASE CLOSED....

want to note something here, been working on all sorts of cars for friends, relatives, myself and I find that in ANY DOMESTIC brand, it's the IMPORT PARTS in it that mess up the MOST.....way ho the worst....Chrysler...mutso trannies and/or engines in mini vans is a classic example....

the entire Jeep Eagle was Mutos....and a total POS....

the list goes on.....

:twitch::fishing:
 
Bullshark said:
Thanks MyBad
I was afraid I was going to have to get the damn dealer involved to fix the radio. I had to tear darn near the whole front dash out just to get to the switch. From what I read, there is a key learn procedure that can be done without the dealer's Tech II. I was hoping I could figure a way of getting the old key cylinder out and get a new cylinder and key without having to by the whole switch assembly ($200+) How do you think I should approach drilling the cylinder out?

Bullshark
Click to expand...


Dunno about radios, don't even HAVE on in either of my rides....I turn it off when driving something else....

but on that ignition switch....if you take your time, there isn't ONE out there aI ever seen that can't be beat....key or no key....

they have lotsa stupid levers in there to connect to all sorts of crap, brakes, brake pedal, gear selector, ebrake, GOD knows what else....IF you have annual inspections your maybe kinda screwed on that crap....thankfully Florida don't....so all that crap is killed as above earlier post....

got a break off screw in there....break it off and do something else...remove the carcass with heat or a vice grip and then do the obvious with 'normal' hardware even to the point of drilling and running a tap ......

certain thing bring on a very LARGE ATTITUDE with me, and stupid Ralph Nader time wasting engineering is one of them....

:banghead::banghead:
 
Bullshark said:
Hey guys, my in dash ignition switch on the 2001 Alero won't turn on. It's like I have the wrong key, but not the case. If anyone thinks they can help please take a look at the following forum thread. Not getting much help over there.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=908087


Also, while trying to remove the switch, I unplugged the radio before I unhooked the battery. From what I have read, that probably disabled the radio due to security system. How do I recover from this bubba move?:suicide:

Thanks

Bullshark
Click to expand...

Our shop mechanic is pretty sharp when it comes to Olds.
I'm sure I could get you an answer Monday if you don't get one by then.

As for the radio........a lot of cars these days go into a lock down mode when power is lost.
Usually all you need is an Un-Lock Code. First there is a sticker on the radio
itself with a serial number or similar.......then call your GM dealer and give them
that number....in return they will give you a 4 or 5 digit unlock code.
Once everything is reconnected and power is on simply punch the number in
using the station select buttons and the radio should return to normal function.

Be sure to save that code if you ever need it again.
 
Thanks for the help guys, I plan to do some leg work today, trying to check with locksmiths, dealer parts, etc. to see what my lowest cost alternatives are.
SMYDA, yes if you will, please check with your olds mechanic to see if he has any suggestions on how best to proceed.

You know what guys,,,,,, here I am getting good help on this Corvette forum when I posted these same questions on an Alero forum without a single response. :rolleyes:

We have something special here.:quote:

Bullshark
 
Apparently this is a common problem.


I was told to reinsert the key into the ignition and then smack the key
with a hammer as if to drive it in "just" a little further. Then try to turn
the key. This worked most of the time for our Mech......if the key is still
good you just need to buy a new cylinder and have it coded the match that key.

With the cylinder in the "ON" position connecting the cable and so forth
should be no problem.

Once everything is reinstalled you will probably need to reset the security
system.......to do so turn the ignition ON and let the car set till the security
light on the dash stops flashing (this could be 10 minutes) turn the key to
OFF........count to 5 and then crank the car.


If you ever have a problem with the car not starting.........zero turn over...
but everything else works........it's the security system, majority of the time.
Repeat the above mentioned sets.

Our Mech.....Jeff was the OLDS tech back before GM pulled that line.
We have a storage room full of old Manuals and what not for OLDS.
 
Last edited:
Thanks SMYDA,
Yes I read about the key smacking, and already tried that......No luck. I hit the key pretty hard but not sure what hard is. Anyway, I talked to a dealer service parts guy and he implied there was a way to go in from behind the cylinder with a small flat blade screw driver and free something??? which would allow the cylinder to be removed. This was after depressing the release button to allow it to extract slightly first. I did some fiddling without knowing the exact procedure with no luck. My next action will probably be to take the front switch assembly with cylinder to the dealer or a locksmith for some help. The cylinder is ~ $130 at GM partsdirect. I am a little weary of buying a used part given the history.

P1010014%20(Medium).JPG


Bullshark
 
Bullshark said:
I am a little weary of buying a used part given the history.
Click to expand...

Buy two used cylinders so you have a spare :D

AutoZone and AdvancedAuto give you a lifetime warranty on brake pads or remanufactured spark plugs but for this lock/switch they only give you one year.... that should tell us something.... ..... :cry::cry:
 
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