Replaced steering cylinder and it still wont turn to the right!!!!

B

BlackRat

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Mar 27, 2008
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Just before I found the motor issue several months ago my steering stopped turning to the right. It was so bad that I evidently bent the shaft on the old steering cylinder. Thinking that the bent shaft was the culprit and not just colateral damage I replaced it.

While the cylinder shaft was disconnected the steering moved freely in both directions.I put the new steering cylinder on and reconnected it to the center link and frame. Sure enough it turned freely to the left and completely stopped when moved slightly right from center. I disconnected the cylinder again and again the steering was free. The new cylinder slides fine by the rod in and out when disconnected from the 2 PS lines so this eliminates another bad cylinder.

I know I don't have anything binding or catching like PS lines so what else could cause this??? Is it the power assist valve itself???


Thanks
Wade
 
You have to adjust the nylock behind the little dust cap on the end to center the assist.
 
I would try to center the valve first with the ram disconnected. For things to be like they are the hydraulics must be blocked somewhere. It can't be the pump, he would have no assist, It can't be the cylinder or the lines, he would have no assist either. It'll have to be the valve. However, hoes can it do that? It can only do that if the center is off and you always get it to assist to one side, even when the ball joint is pushed the other way.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
I would try to center the valve first with the ram disconnected. For things to be like they are the hydraulics must be blocked somewhere. It can't be the pump, he would have no assist, It can't be the cylinder or the lines, he would have no assist either. It'll have to be the valve. However, hoes can it do that? It can only do that if the center is off and you always get it to assist to one side, even when the ball joint is pushed the other way.
Click to expand...


Thanks TT but would the valve get out of adjustment by just replacing the cylinder? I have never touched the adjustment before and the dust cap is still in place so it should not have been accidently turned.


Thanks
Wade
 
If you replace the valve, jack up the front end. Fill the system first by turning the pump by hand, then turning the wheels back and forth, engine off.. Start the engine, then turn lock to lock quickly, then shut it off for 30 minutes. This lets the air bubbles bleed out. Do this 2 or 3 times till the system is full. While doing this, check that the hoses do not rub on anything.
Then, disconnect the cylinder ram from the frame anchor, and start the car. The ram should not move when not touching the wheel. If it slowly moves in or out, adjust the setting on the valve untill it remains static.
 
BlackRat said:
Twin_Turbo said:
I would try to center the valve first with the ram disconnected. For things to be like they are the hydraulics must be blocked somewhere. It can't be the pump, he would have no assist, It can't be the cylinder or the lines, he would have no assist either. It'll have to be the valve. However, hoes can it do that? It can only do that if the center is off and you always get it to assist to one side, even when the ball joint is pushed the other way.
Click to expand...


Thanks TT but would the valve get out of adjustment by just replacing the cylinder? I have never touched the adjustment before and the dust cap is still in place so it should not have been accidently turned.


Thanks
Wade
Click to expand...

Wade, the lines into the assist cylinder are BACKWARDS.....easy to do, mostly at the cylinder itself.....the fittings are identical as I recall....I seem to have a vague recollection of something like that years ago...pre rack daze....

:bonkers::flash:
 
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