flexible brake lines

Does anyone make flexible high pressure SS lines that run from the mastercylinder to the proportioning valve. Thanx

You'll have to get adapters to go to 3 or 4 an lines

Speedway has premade lines and adapters

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/m/13_Race-Car-Brake-Lines-and-Fittings.html

Would you happen to know what size the small fitting is that goes in the rear brake side of the prop. valve, My 81 has three different sizes,a small one on the front lines running from prop. valve to front tires a larger one running from front of m/c to front of prop. valve [for front brakes],both fittings on this line are the same,and the back line has one larger yet fitting on one end and the smallest fitting on the other end. I went to a parker store and had a couple hoses made- the middle size fitting works for the front brakes but the small fitting he had looked the same except for a small taper on the original but willnot thread in the prop. valve. The guy at the parker store said they were the same thread. That site you gave me had a kit but didnt say how hard to install fittings or how much pressure they would hold. Im installing hydroboost and line lock. thanx

I've got it, had to make an adapter for the 9/16 and buy an adapter for the 3/16,4 different sizes of fittings, it was like workin on a ford.master cyl. and line lock on, next hydroboost,steering cyl.,and calipers.

Sorry to hijack, but what size fittings did you end up using just to go from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve? What size braided hose?

The master cylinder sits further forward when it's bolted to the Hydroboost unit and although I got the original lines to fit to the master cylinder, they're under a bit of tension and I'd like to make up new flexible lines...

The rear of the master cyy is 9/16 inverted flare and goes down to1/4 on prop. valve,the front is 5/16 from m/c to 5/16 prop, the two front lines from prop to front brakes are 3/16, I had to plug one of the front lines at the p/v then T out of the line lock,Our aeroquip store closed so I had some parker lines made [black]They didnt have a 9/16 fitting anywhere so I drilled out the old one for 3/16 brake line and made a double male with 5/16 at the other end. Im curios whats everyones opinion on single flare VS double flare.I have nowhere near the exp, and car knowledge of y'all I have always single flared the 8 or 10 times I've made hard lines and never a leak,but I would like to know what you guys think.thanx

If the tubing is non seamless you need the double flare.

Thanks, one more thing whats wrong with mixing dot 3 and synth.it says compatable on the bottle of synth.

synthetic does not refer to what base it is, is it glycol or silicone? Those 2 won't mix. In otehr words, you can mix Dot 3,4, 5.1 just not DOT5 (5.1 IS glycol based!!! the 5. is confusing but ONLY 5 is silicone based)

Thank you TT

Twin_Turbo said:

If the tubing is non seamless you need the double flare.

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I have never seen single flair brake lines. Fuel lines, yes.

big2bird said:

Twin_Turbo said:

If the tubing is non seamless you need the double flare.

Click to expand...

I have never seen single flair brake lines. Fuel lines, yes.

Click to expand...

I have to agree with Bird here.. Brake lines I've seen are either a double flare or an ISO (bubble) flare.

We use seamless tubing on 3000 psi airplane hydraulics, 37* flare (AN), but they all are either stainless steel or titanium, and have the usual run of nuts and sleeves on each end.

Yes pre-flared [part store] brake lines are dbl,flare I had to cut and reflare some but I had a few split on the seam.If you buy brake lines that fit perfectly you dont have to cut and flare.I had to cut a few. I will find out this weekend if the single flares leak or not.they seem to seat good.I looked around for a article on the jeep box, is it a worthwhile swap.

Brake lines are double flares because the factory uses non seamless tubing and a double flare is more forgiving. Because of the way the flare nut directly rests against the tubing when tightening it will distort and the double flare is much more forgiving there. However, if you have actual non seamless tubing and use a flare nut and sleeve a single flare will be just fine.

I have a double flare tool, and so I doulble flare most everything, I do have to use a vice many times to get it to work, as I simply don't have the strength to force steel lines through the process by hand....but it turns out quite acceptable work....

there are some nicks on the line surface where the tool halves grab it, wonder how in hell the factory does it without any nicks in that spot??

Finall got everything hooked back up today,no leaks so far except a valve cover that threw me when I first pushed the car back so I could jack it up, I thought it was pwr str fluid till I looked closer.Got ready fer a test drive and a storm blew in.Only got to drive it about 15min. brakes work a lot better but feel different w/H/B.Also when I turn the wheel a little to the left it feels like it wants to go to easily not really pulling just to damn easy ,It feels normal turning right could the new steering valve need a little adjusting.It was supposed to be centered from VBP but I could have had the wheels a little crooked when installed. I'll have to look at that tmrw.And I bought a dbl. flaring tool in case my single flares leak. Thanks for the advice guys.

slow release

Got the steering/cyl. centered had a good drive mon.before work.Damn its nice to have brakes again.Although the brakes when you press hard and let off dont seem to release immediatly,like a half second delay.Is this why some people leave the spring out of the o-ring calipers.