Front wheel bearings

I decided to replace the front wheel bearings. I have the hubs separated from the rotors and want to sandblast and paint the parts so replacing the bearings seems to be a good idea 'while I'm at it' :smash:

Right now it's all covered in old and nasty grease, the outer bearing is out, the inner bearing seems to be held in place by the seal... can't really see much until I clean this grease off the hubs....

How are the races held in place, press fit or relatively loose ? Do I have to heat the hub to get the races out or can I just beat them out cold ??

I assume I just beat the old races out and then once the hubs are clean put them in the oven and place the new races in the freezer and then just slip them in place ?????

Fronts are easy. Put the hub back on and put the nut on the spindle. Bring the rotor forward until the bearing touches the nut and give it pull to pop out the rear seal and bearing. Clean out the hub. I use a brass drift and drive out the races. A piece of sq stock across the diameter can also be used to press them out. I use a flat piece of aluminum to tap the new race level with the hub abd then a bearing driver to seat them. No press, heat is required.
Grease them, use a new seal and adjust them for min endplay. I seat them back off, do it again then snug the nut by hand and back off one flat and install the cotter pin. If too loose then I'll dress the back of the nut a few thousands.

The outer race is held in with a press fit. If you look through the center of the hub to the backside of the race, you will see two "toenail" recesses in the bore. Use a round brass drift in these toenailed openings and you can knock the race out.

i always weld a bead on the races, they'll fall right out.

MYBAD79 said:

I decided to replace the front wheel bearings. I have the hubs separated from the rotors and want to sandblast and paint the parts so replacing the bearings seems to be a good idea 'while I'm at it' :smash:

Right now it's all covered in old and nasty grease, the outer bearing is out, the inner bearing seems to be held in place by the seal... can't really see much until I clean this grease off the hubs....

How are the races held in place, press fit or relatively loose ? Do I have to heat the hub to get the races out or can I just beat them out cold ??

I assume I just beat the old races out and then once the hubs are clean put them in the oven and place the new races in the freezer and then just slip them in place ?????

Click to expand...

Tap the races out evenly using a brash punch and hammer. They are a press fit. Use a bearing race installer to install. No need to cool or heat the parts, but it will help. I like to know that it is a nice tight fit as I install them, so no cold races for me. If you don't have a bearing race installer, use the old race you removed to install them (sand the OD down so the old race doesn't get pressed in with the new one). I always use a dremel tool to lightly chamfer the bottom edge of where the race sits. This gets rid of any burrs or high spots.

its so much work to get the race out and get a new one correctly seated, i don't bother to replace it unless it looks discolored or otherwise damaged.

Twin_Turbo said:

i always weld a bead on the races, they'll fall right out.

Click to expand...

Hey, that's a neat trick:idea:

turtlevette said:

its so much work to get the race out and get a new one correctly seated, i don't bother to replace it unless it looks discolored or otherwise damaged.

Click to expand...

You should always replace te race when you install new bearings. They are a matched set. And no, it is not hard to install and seat a new one, it is extremely easy.

stinger12 said:

turtlevette said:

its so much work to get the race out and get a new one correctly seated, i don't bother to replace it unless it looks discolored or otherwise damaged.

Click to expand...

You should always replace te race when you install new bearings. They are a matched set. And no, it is not hard to install and seat a new one, it is extremely easy.

Click to expand...

We had a discussion on this way back on CF. I doubt that a $7 bearing is matched to anything.

Maybe someone could come up with a definitive answer so we quit propagating old tales that have been passed on for 40 years.

I'm curious. What do you want to do for a job? Are you planning to go to College?

turtlevette said:

stinger12 said:

turtlevette said:

its so much work to get the race out and get a new one correctly seated, i don't bother to replace it unless it looks discolored or otherwise damaged.

Click to expand...

You should always replace te race when you install new bearings. They are a matched set. And no, it is not hard to install and seat a new one, it is extremely easy.

Click to expand...

We had a discussion on this way back on CF. I doubt that a $7 bearing is matched to anything.

Maybe someone could come up with a definitive answer so we quit propagating old tales that have been passed on for 40 years.

I'm curious. What do you want to do for a job? Are you planning to go to College?

Click to expand...

Actually yes, I do plan on going to College. I am heading back to school this September, I'm taking business.

Turtle.... $7 bearings...... stop buying that cheap junk.... the bearings are $10.99 and $11.99 plus tax :smash:

I popped the rear seal out using a pry bar, cam out easy....

After cleaning all the old grease out of the hub (the entire 2lbs) I saw the recessed areas and drove the races out.... they came out easy. :thumbs:

I cleaned the parts and took the passenger side apart as well.... I am posting new pics in my other thread in the 'wheels tires and brakes' section.

Edit:

Thanks guys, very helpful replies within 90 minutes.... this forum is getting better and better

turtlevette said:

stinger12 said:

turtlevette said:

its so much work to get the race out and get a new one correctly seated, i don't bother to replace it unless it looks discolored or otherwise damaged.

Click to expand...

You should always replace te race when you install new bearings. They are a matched set. And no, it is not hard to install and seat a new one, it is extremely easy.

Click to expand...

We had a discussion on this way back on CF. I doubt that a $7 bearing is matched to anything.

Maybe someone could come up with a definitive answer so we quit propagating old tales that have been passed on for 40 years.

Click to expand...

Good question. I suspect marrying used cages and races is more important than when new.

To each his own..... the new bearing comes with a new race, my personal (and humble ) opinion is that it's foolish not to install the new parts just because of lazyness.... I just drove the old races out today and it is not a lot of work, actually it took less than 2 minutes once I had a clear view on the recessed areas where the punch had to go...

MYBAD79 said:

To each his own..... the new bearing comes with a new race, my personal (and humble ) opinion is that it's foolish not to install the new parts just because of lazyness.... I just drove the old races out today and it is not a lot of work, actually it took less than 2 minutes once I had a clear view on the recessed areas where the punch had to go...

Click to expand...

Let me start over. Always use a new race with a new bearing cage. I don't know as bearings come with the race matched to the cage. When re-using an old bearing, be sure it goes back with the race it ran on before.
That better?:blush:

That wasn't directed to your reply but I do agree with you that used bearings should go back the way they were... don't swap left/right or driver/passenger side.

It IS quiet some work to remove the rotr/hub assembly and clean all the parts and dial in the runout.... this is NOT where one should try to safe $60 for the new bearings....

MYBAD79 said:

To each his own..... the new bearing comes with a new race, my personal (and humble ) opinion is that it's foolish not to install the new parts just because of lazyness.... I just drove the old races out today and it is not a lot of work, actually it took less than 2 minutes once I had a clear view on the recessed areas where the punch had to go...

Click to expand...

Its not lazyness. Some people drive on a track or take their car on very long trips. When something happens you need to get it repaired quick and get back out there. Track time is a precious commodity.

Why would you not replace the races??? the bearings come with one,just an extra min or two out of your day :bonkers:

About the question as to whether or remove or not the old outer races. I too agree to remove and replace the outer races. First of all, who knows that the outer races may not be dimensionally correct for the new bearing cones. After all the old races may be 40 years old.

As for looking at old races...they may, to the eye, look perfect. However, I've seen electron microscope pictures of bearing races. A visibly perfect race may look just horrible in an electron microscope photo. Scratches can be seen and also an occasional pit where perhaps a bit of contamination got in. The bearing races I was looking at were used for a shaft running at 8000 rpm. The cone bearing assembly apparently had a harmonic vibration to it and it wore a banded pattern into the outer race. The bearing cone had started to vibrate longitudinally to the shaft spin axis.

inner bearing races and seals for front ends are EASY to get off....just pull the bearing, and turn the nut on there a few threads .....jerk/pull the hub out against that inner bearing/race.....

outta there.....